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Has anyone ever removed the headlight switch from the inside of a 1947 Lincoln Continental? It appears the entire chrome front on the dash has to be removed. I have removed the radio so I can sort of see the switch. It is very difficult to test the switch, but it appears almost 7 volts are coming into it, and 4.75 to 5 are going out. Does anyone have experience with one of these cars in regard to removal of the headlight switch? Thank you for reading this. Don

I am trying to find out if a '60 Olds Dynamic 88 could be ordered with synchromesh, the 260 HP engine option, power steering, and posi-traction? I have the dealership notebook, but it doesn't give much detail into the W-2 option, other than a 9.75:1 compression ratio. Also, one point in compression ratio is not going raise that engines gross HP from 240 to 260. Was there also a higher lift cam with it? It also appears it uses the same two-barrel "econo-way" carburetor. Thank you for reading this. DJW

To all of you '60 Olds experts out there.....Could you get a sceni-coupe with the 260 horsepower engine, power steering and synchromesh. Also, I am not sure how they got 260 HP from 240 HP, when the only thing that was changed was one point in the compression ratio? Unless it has a different cam, and 4 barrel carburetor. Thx DJW

Does anyone know the actual production breakdown for the 1939 Hayes coupes? I am getting conflicting information. Thank you DJW

I posted the pictures, so does anyone have any idea?

I would like to know the break down on these 1939 Hayes Coupes. One source says 1000 bodies were delivered, another says 1016 were delivered. DeSoto--264, Dodge--363, Royal Windsor--239, New Yorker--99, Saratoga --35, and no Imperials. So does anyone really know? DJW

Does anyone know how to adjust the accelerator linkage on a V-12 Pierce-Arrow? I don't think the linkage is opening up the carbs all of the way. Thx Don

I found the price for the Le Mans engine in a Motor Trend from April, 1954, on page 22. $193!!!! I don't know how they sold these cars. An Ambassador, 2 door hdtp, Custom, sold for more than a 2 door hdtp Olds Super 88? The $193 on the Nash got you ten more horsepower, two carburetors, 8 to 1 compression ration (I think) and an aluminum head, that tended to crack. Not sure what the problem was--the gasket, poor metallurgy, etc. Would be interested in having Nash experts respond. Thx

Does anyone know what the Le Mans engine option cost new on a 1954 Nash Ambassador Custom? I realize the standard engine was 130 HP and the Le Mans engine was 150 gross HP. Thx

I have another question in regard to spark plugs. It currently has Champion RH10C in it. They were black with carbon, but now they are a dark brown. Don't know if I should change them or not. I have a 1953 Motors, and it lists the type of plug as CH-H10, and I have no idea what the difference might be. If I go to a hotter plug, what is the recommendation. Thx

Jon, Thank you for your response. Today I took the car to a small local car show and then came home and tried to check the the spark plug wires while the car was running. My first problem is I don't have a real pair of spark plug wire pliers, and I kept zapping myself. I then tried starting the car and just checking three of them, after I loosened them , but then the car was very difficult to restart. I finally gave up because I was running the starter so much, because it would not restart easily. I did find the one of the spark plug wires on the drivers side, was up against the oil bath air cleaner---would that be a problem? Anyway, I also added a quart of oil because it indicated it need it. I backed it out into the street, and suddenly it kept trying to quit, and smoke started coming out from under the hood (scary). I think it was oil blowing out from somewhere, but couldn't figure out what happened. The car then proceeded to go up a hill without a miss. Are those float type of oil indicators accurate, or can they become logged like a fuel float in a gas tank can? Thank you Jim

On a 1947 Lincoln V-12 and a miss, and a flat spot at higher rpm, I am beginning to wonder if it isn't the distributor, which is of course a nightmare on these cars. A mechanic told me that timing checks now have to be done on older cars by driving them. This is because of the burn rate of the ethanol (10%) in the fuel. It said often times the timing has to be set more advanced than the original factory settings. Does anyone have any experience on this? Can the timing be changed without taking off the distributor, and taking it someone who has the special machine? Thank you Don

I have a 1947 Lincoln Continental which has weak turn signals. I have been advised to replace the flasher unit. My question is why are there three prongs on one end of the flasher. The car only has two wires going to the current flasher. Is this a ground? Or does it need that? The prongs are labeled "L" "P" "X". What do these initials stand for? Thank you Don

I have a 1947 Lincoln Continental, and it has always had dim headlights. It was rewired many years ago, with period correct type of wiring. One mechanical minded person suggested I change out the headlight switch, which is not easy on these cars; in fact it appears the radio has to come out to do this. Does anyone have experience with the electrical system on these cars? Thank you for reading this. Don

Tom, Thank you again for all of the advice. I just got back from somewhat of a speed run trying to "blow the carbon out" for about ten freeway miles. It helped, but it didn't go away completely (rolling idle.) I pulled a plug, once the car was back in the garage, and it was still black from carbon. Is there a point where a plug cleaner is needed? Or should I just replace the plugs? On another topic, it has always had a low speed buck when the foot is off of the accelerator, either going down hill or coasting on the level in gear. Very jerky, and I am sure the cars did not do this when they were new. Of course this goes away when the clutch gets pushed in because the engine is being separated from the drivetrain. Any ideas? Again thank you very much for all of your assistance. Don

I have now replaced the coil, that has been tested as being good, and it made no difference in the rolling idle problem. I tried the plug test again(grounding them), and they all seemed to cause a slight drop in the idle. Problem is, there is still a roll at idle. After having checked the plugs and gapped them just to make sure(about a month ago), I was surprised to find the plugs are now carboned up (black soot.) This spark plug situation seems to have started with the rolling idle problem. I tried the trick of spraying around the plugs and the wires with water in a dark garage, and that produced nothing. What would cause the spark plugs to know be covered in black carbon? Does this mean there is an issue with one of the new condensers, or is this an issue with the plastic terminal plates? Thank you again for all of the suggestions. Don

Tom, Thank you, but how do I short out each plug wire without pulling it off of the spark plug itself? I did this once already, but I read I can damage things by doing this. Do you touch a screwdriver to the top part of the sparkplug where the wire is, to get it short out? Thank you again Don

Thank you very much for all of the ideas, and suggestions. I changed the condensers and the flat spot issue improved, but it still does it when it gets driven 20 miles, but less so. I pulled all of the plugs and they all looked good and I re-gapped a couple of them, but only slightly so. Now when I start it the idle causes the car to roll, and it acts as if it is going to stall. What did I do to cause this, and how could it have a poor idle but be fine at higher rpms? Next I guess I should try to replace the coil and see what that does. Thx again Don

Tom, Thank you for responding. I have checked all 12 sparks and they are working, though they weren't particularly blue. Is there a simple test to figure out if it is one of the condensers? Thx Don

I have a 1947 Lincoln and after it heats up it starts to get flat spots in the acceleration. It has a new 6 volt electric fuel pump which has helped some. I don't think at this point it could be fuel unless there is a collapsed fuel line, because it is fine when it is cold. After the car heats up, the farther you push the accelerator down, the flatter (lack of power) it is. Could this be one of the coils going? Thank you for reading this Don

Yes I still need J-6323, and thank you for posting. Does it work fine---not rusted, stuck, etc? I am not sure what it is worth, $30? Jim

Steve, Do you still have J-6323? I really need that tool to re-install the clutch and pulley on a 1956 Cadillac a/c unit. Thx Jim Greene

J-6323 is for installing the clutch and pulley on A5 GM A/C units. Would you be interested in selling J-6323, as I need that tool for a 1956 Cad A/C unit I am working on. Thank you Jim Greene

I have a 1947 Lincoln, with the original v-12. It has a very definite flat spot the more you step on the gas. I don't think it is the accelerator pump, because that would start right at the moment the accelerator is touched. Does the carburetor needs rebuilding, or is there a vacuum leak? Could it be in the unique timers/distributors these cars have? Thx D