franc944
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Posts posted by franc944
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:cool: need the ash tray and cig lighter $90 for the cluster
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So am I correct that our be my power draw? I ran new wires to a new aftermarket power antenna so I may try to just eliminate rather than replace it.
i believe the wiring behind the radio you are talking about runs juice to the antenna so that it goes up when radio is on and down when it is off -
.6 amp I meant
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There is a .6 volt draw and the radio is within spec so I suspected that suppressor. I thought is was a relay stuck open.
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I have traced the power draw to circuit number 16 which is called interior lighting.
I pulled this fuse and now the radio won't power up so it appears the radio and cigarette lighter are on the same circuit. All the pin switches are good.
Who can tell me about the relAy behind the radio? I think if it's stuck open it could b causing the draw. .6amps.
Btw anyone got a ash tray and lighter assembly to sell me?
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Kingsley,
I owe you reatta headlight arm cores. I'll send them out soon.
I bought the 90 reatta convertible 65,000 miles last year from a desperate person as a winter project. Craigslist find. I only paid $1,500 and all I put into it were the alternator, cluster, hvac module headlight rebuild, converter, ATF and oil change, and some interior odds n ends and a good wet sand and buff. Besides my labor which it was my pleasure to work on that car I only spent $500 in parts. I was $2,000 into it and was gonna drive it this summer but I learned it could be worth $10,000 I tried to sell it just for the sport. I got $7,000 for it. They say you never go broke taking a profit.
The T C
California car 85,000 miles.
I paid $1,900 for, needed brakes axels, valve cover gaskets, tune up, thermostat, and a stereo and speakers. So I am into this one for less than $500 in parts too.
It's just not reatta smooth and I would be lucky to break out even the resale is so bad on them.
It's a minivan drivetrain in a poorly built Italian car.
After I personally did all 4 pads n rotors pedal was real spongy so I sought the help of a pro. I thought it needed an accumulator but my local mechanic said it just took a long time to bleed the rears with their machine and the brakes work great! $60 total bill for bleed n fluid.
No issues. I might look for an Allante project next to try out all three rare grand touring roadsters of the day.
Both tc and reatta are refreshingly simple to troubleshoot and fix.
My cruise night car has been a 1988 mustang gt with ultra rare t-top option. Only 500 cars produced with t-tops in 1988
I'm also on the Daily driver hunt for a 2011 ford crown victoria. Last year produced.
What do you guys think of the 94 cutlass supreme convertible?
There is one that needs a little restoration that can be had very cheap, under $1,000.
Another possible next project is a 1989 Pontiac gta white tan leather interior I was thinking of making a pace car replica out of.
Franco - It would be interesting to have any thoughts that you could share with us as far as your TC experience is concerned. Since they and the Reatta share the TEVES ABS does it appear that is an issue as frequently as it appears to show up on the Reatta. I stand to be corrected Oby I think the total TC units manufactured were in the 7,000 range.Presume you bought it after seeling your Reatta so understand that you have not had a chance to log too many miles on it.
Kingsley
'89, '90 Coupes
Member AACA, BCA and Reatta Division
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Tom,
I am interested in the convertible.
Please send me photos at your earliest convenience
I have a 90 white with blue interior convert with about 120K miles for $3000. Runs and drives fine, tops good as well. Have a 90 blue/blue interior coupe with 79K on it for $2800 with a mint interior. And a 91 Polo green with about 70K on it for $3500.In Boston, not too far away. trying to reduce my car accumulation-just sold 4 TCs last fall.
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I did mine last night. Came out great!
I used halogen shop light and pried all around the ashes with plastic door panel tool and small flat screw driver. Then with my bare hand I stared twisting outside glass and as it moved I twisted it off with my bare hand.
One side silicone came off with brake clean spray and razor blade, other side just pealed off.
Anyone know how to stick it back on? ClEar silicone sandwich or just around the edge?
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Hi all.
I had a 90 reatta convertible with only 65,000 miles white red.
I sold it and should have kept it.
I have a 91 Chrysler tc vert now and am gonna sell it but I want a convertible reatta or fiero that needs some work that I can kick around on the cheap.
Keep an eye out for me folks please.
I'm in Connecticut.
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I have a 1991 3.0.
Ok so far I did:
both valve cover gaskets
Belts
Battery and terminals
Plugs, wires cap n rotor
Oil change
Fuel filter
Both front axels
All 4 pads n rotors.
Runs good n smooth but brakes are kind of spongy.
Is there a special procedure to bleed the brakes? I remember there was on my 90 reatta with teves system and this one looks similar.
Also, is there a procedure to removing the hard top without breaking anything? I had the car apart a couple weeks and never tried to remove hard top yet but now she's ready to cruise.
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So what side is supposed to have the counter weight ?
Are they the exact same unit or is driver side different to seal in trans fluid on driver side?
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I recently sold my '90 reatta convertible and got a 91 tc. The car is traditional steel unibody. The parade boot is fiberglass and hardtop also fiberglass.
Very similarly to Reatta is shortened Riviera. Lebaron is lengthened TC. They share parts in similar ways but were built in different factory.
Even Reatta production numbers were similar as was PPG paint process. I don't know why TC values are so much lower than Reatta verts. Makes it a bargain future classic.
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I know the engine is Mitsubishi design but wasn't it made in Mexico?
I can see that you have a 3.0L as that is the only thermostat that falls apart. This doesn't happen with the thermostats on the American built engines.As for a gasket, it is much more likely to leak than RTV applied properly.
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Can you get the one for the back seat storage hatch lid?
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I got a $99 alpine CD player with built in iPod control from sonicelectronix.com, came with free shipping, dash kit, and harness adapter. I also got 2 pair of $39 speakers 5 1/4. Has anyone gotten a 6 1/2 in, looks like lots of room!
It looks and sounds good for the price.
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Replacing the tc t-stat is the easiest job I ever did on it. Yours is probable stuck almost closed.
My t stat had split in two! I had to pick retainer, spring, and rubber seal out of the lower intake manifold.
I know many like pure rtv but if you pick up the t-stat gasket for $1.80 it makes the job even easier and neater and less likely to leak. 20ft # on bolts?
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My car is a 91 with 85,000 miles. I can not tell if the axels I am replacing are originals. They have a yellow decal that says ENGLAND.
Driver side had no counter weight pass side did.
Originals appear to be the same length or are within 1 inch.
Is no weight on driver side correct? What does the counter weight do?
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I had to do both axels on my 1991 tc. For those who don't know that's a 3.0 automatic.
I ordered from Autozone. I got one that was over 3feet long and another 24" with a counter weight.
I took apart passenger side first and it was exact match to short unit wih counter weight.
I tool apart driver side and that axel was same length.
I went back to the store and said what they sold me was too long.
I brought both axels I tool off.
Autozone= dopes
So I got a refund n went to napa.
They said order another driver side and remove the counter weight.
Is the Cardone catalog wrong?
Which side is longer and which side has the counter weight?
Maybe the ones on my car were replaced I the past with the wrong units.
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On to the interior. Can someone explain how to remove the stock slave cd player? It has me stumped. I'm ready to use the bfh.
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Hi I searched and did not find.
I am trying to remove the lower slave cd player on my 91 tc.
I removed several Phillips screws and pried and pried. Something is holding it in and I don't see any bolts but I feel bolts in back.
Any tips or how good on removing this unit ?
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Sorry I haven't started the interior yet. I just pm- Ed you back on what my limited budget can afford for now.
franc i sent a reply about parts to you in black and got no response. i have the radio bezel, dash part, cluster hood, center dash vents and door speaker covers -
I have the black interior.
I need door speaker grills only.
It looks like I am going aftermarket radio because the harness was hacked pretty bad and there is new speaker wires pulled to the doors.
I'll pm you a list of my needs.
List of stuff I'm doing:
Front and read brakes pads n rotors
Both front axels
Plugs and wires, cap and rotor look new
Fuel filter and clean injectors.
Valve cover gasket
All fluid changes
Tires
Alignment
Interior needs
gauge cluster bezel leather
Passenger side horizontal leather piece
Metal ash tray and cig lighter assembly
Driver side floor mat
Pass side door lock inopp repair.
Install all new speakers to replace missing and new aftermarket radio.
I have hard top port window fogging so I am going to fix that.
Btw. I noticed new bAttery keeps dyeing
I'm at 85,000 miles. When should the timing belt be done? I understand it is non interference engine and I only use it around town so no big thing if it goes right?
What is typical place to start looking for the draw? I was thinking cruise control or power antenna motor. Any ideas?
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Retard the timing to get through and adjust it again once you pass.
Also, make sure the converter is blazing hot when thy test the car by running at high rpm on the way there and in parking lot.
I need tips on control arms and struts n shocks job.
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted · Edited by franc944 (see edit history)
I have a 91 with 85,000 miles that feels like it is going to crash out of control when I hit a bump but other than that it runs great!
i got Kyb shock and strut assemblies and new mounts/ bearings, and dorman lower control arms from rock auto and am going to tackle the job Saturday.
i have already done all 4 brakes and rotors and both cv axels. I know I should have done struts n control arms at the same time but I did not think I needed them until I got my mechanic's opinion. I thought it was just a bushing or ball joint.
It is a corrosion free California car so it should come apart nice and easy.
Does anyone have any tips on this job?
This isn't my first rodeo but there is nothing worse than having a car apart and not having the right tool or missing something.
i have the $50 Harbor Freight spring compressors.