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franc944

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Posts posted by franc944

  1. So I knew the car needed new strut-rod bushings, subframe bushings and bolts as well as transmission cooler lines.

    My transmission guy suggestions I replace the Whole sub frame from the parts car due to a little rust.

    What do you guys think?

    Should I buy a used sub frame and keep my parts car a roller? Anyone in CT want to sell me a sub-frame?

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  2. Can't find what please ? I have a couple of O-ring kits I bought online. Every AC connection has a O-ring.

    I am sorry.  I could not find the A/C lines sold new anywhere.

     

    I did not realize they were unique to the Reatta I figured like the compressor and evaporator they were the same used on the Riviera and Trofeo etc.

  3. On the last Reatta vert I restored I used the same heavy cut, medium, and fine compound and rotary buffer as used on all the body panels.

    I like Smartwax and Mcguires compounds but any brand should work just as well.

    All those kits are are compounds. If you already have compounds and a buffer for paint do t waste your money.

    It came out like new. I did not buy any special kits.

    Thanks to all for your help and advice. FYI I did do a search before asking the question, however it didn't seem to help very much. The new headlight resrorer kits and wipe on/wipe off products seem to be increasing at a fast rate and was wondering if spending $30.00 for a complete kit or the "wipe" products are as good as advertised or go with a buff on, buff off product. For a typical question I do a search first. Been here a little while. This and Ronnie's site are two of the best on the web IMHO

    Thanks again,

    Richard.

  4. Yes

    Thank you John

    This weekend I am not available

    I am camping with the scouts.

    I would like to meet up next time.

    Did you get my PM about our informal breakfast gathering at Mitchell's on Main in Cromwell, this morning at 9 AM?  All are welcome.  Just look for someone with Buick logo on  a shirt or cap.  Usually about 10-12 people.

     

    John

  5. I got the $180 Pioneer master rebuild kit from Rock auto and it looks like it came with the axel seals so will do.

    In my quest to be thorough I am changing the ac condenser and accumulator n orifice n o rings.

    I would like to get new ac lines but my search tells me you can't find them.

    Doesn't anyone have a solution?

    Is original old ones or custom made new the only way to go?

  6. There does not appear to be any oil leaks and it has been my experience to leave alone things like a rear main seal that are not broken because disturbing things may make problems worse in the long run but while I have the transmission out should I replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket?

    It is a 100,000 mile car but like I said it isn't leaking yet but I know from experience these parts are cheap and if I put in the rebuilt trans and I get an oil leak later from the rear main or oil pan that it is much more work in the long run.

    What else should I change while the trans is out?

  7. I am in. I am just south of Hartford. Rocky Hill

    Pm me or reply with a link to your club or let me know how to join please.

    Thanks

    franc944,

    Where are you located in CT? I am also in CT and would welcome you to the BCA and local Yankee Chapter. I have a '90 convertible.

    John

  8. The cooling system is in perfect condition.

    I flushed and replaced coolant and thermostat anyway but there was no rust. Water pump looks to have already been replaced. It did need a new radiator cap.

    Exhaust looks great and looks like it was also replaced though I will be doing the O2 sensor for good measure.

    I installed the suggested aftermarket power steering cooler because the original was rusted through and the bracket was broken.

    I have a parts car I can get an original power steering cooler off of that is original.

    Who votes for used original power steering cooler and who votes for shiny new aftermarket cooler?

  9. I just got some bad news from my transmission builder.

    Broken parts have to come from GM.

    It could take two weeks to get them.

    That will give me time to do the front struts and treat the rust on the bottom on the car and swap the hood and latch over

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  10. Greeting all.

    I thought I would start a new post on the restoration progress of my 1990 Select 60

    I bought this car on Ebay from Tom Benvie in Massachusetts. This was originally a Chicago car that spend time in LA California before coming to Massachusetts and now Connecticut.

    I am starting with getting the car running.

    So I have replaced every fuel line, brake line, and steering component due to leaks as well as rear struts.

    Though the brake lines were rotted, there is remarkably little rust under the car and I will treat those spots with POR 15 and a chassis black.

    I sent the transmission from a running parts car out to be rebuilt and once I have that back we should have a running car and can then begin the bodywork and interior restoration.

    This will be a rolling restoration.

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  11. So this weekend I finally got to begin work on my Select 60 resoration. I bought this car in December on ebay from Tom Benvie in Mass.

    1st step was I washed the whole thing in Simple Green and pressure washed the body and degreased the engine bay.

    My plan is to get it running perfect and then bring it to the body shop for paint work and I will do the interior last.

    The trunk will not open!

    I tried the fob, key and glove compartment button. Nothing. Based on the key not working I suspect the lock linkage is disconnected / broken.

    It is a convertible so I do not know how to get into the trunk through the car.

    I have a parts coupe so I don't care what I break because I can replace it but I don't know where to begin to get this thing opened.

    Typically I would drill the lock but on this car the latch is on the trunk so that won't work.

    Any suggestions?

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  12. I found a site that sells the ez top with glass heated rear window for 550.

    My local upholstery shop guy says 450 for the install. $50 an hour times 9 hours book rate.

    I know you guys are going to say it's on the low-end.

    But Is that I too good to be too true price?

    Also I'm reading a lot about an optional fifth covered bow. There is no extra cost for this what is it and do I need it?

    Regarding the Acme top: the price may be right, but the product is likely to disappoint you. It is vinyl (as factory) but has a plastic rear window sans defroster. The factory top has a glass rear window with defrost standard. At the price these tops are offered at, I question both the quality of the material and the fit. The last thing you want is to restore the car and then skimp on the top. Especially with a select 60.

    I have postponed the new top on my 91 'vert until funds are available to do it right (and the top will be roughly $900, but I'm doing cloth, not vinyl, with a glass rear window with defroster).

    If no major crises beset me before spring it will get ordered in the next few months. Going with an EZ-ON as they are regarded as the standard of quality for convertible tops. Yes, the price reflects that but it is worth it.

    KDirk

  13. I picked it up today.

    I will do the 60 right

    I've shopped new seat covers and to have them done like new is really about $2k. Another major money sink is all new rubber which will absolutely lead to other suspension work. Weird stuff as these were "hand crafted". I had a problem with my AC in the 91 where the defroster door had come disconnected from the vacuum actuator. That probably cost someone a new windshield and it came to me in the dead of summer with ice cold AC blowing from the defroster vents only, so it wasn't worth the PO fixing. Took weeks to dismantle the dash and fix that. Actual replacement carpet, like the original, is pricey as well.
  14. Guilty

    the select 60 tranny swap will be my winter project. i will buy a rebuilt one rather than use the parts car one.

    i plan to do it on my back with air tools.

    it is not my first rodeo. I recall they come out easier than they go in.

    And so it goes.

    As most of us who have performed major surgery on older high mileage cars learned long ago, you have to expect the unexpected.

    One of my tranny swaps took an extra 4 days to complete because a worn out CV joint fell apart when removed, and it took that long to secure a correct replacement and get it installed.

    I have complete confidence that you will overcome these setbacks Dave and come out of them with a much better and stronger Reatta to show for it.

    Somebody is contemplating another tranny swap on that Select 60 that just sold on E-Bay. Anyone on this forum going to fess up?

  15. There are companies like Katzkin Roadwire and Acc that will make a gm white leather upholstery kit for the Rivi for about $650 - including the back seat. The reatta is essentially the same seats sans the rear bench is it not?

    I did one for my 88 t-top mustang. Just hog rings and it looks factory.

    I had a local pro re make the driver seat leather on my 85 Vette which was hard to match because it was 80's bronze gold. Came out perfect and that cost $400 total to have done professionally.

    What else do you guys think is a budget blower?

    Well figure having just the white seats redone (correctly and not on the cheap) will be $2000 plus, depends if whoever redoes it does it on the cheap or does it right,
  16. What at makes you guys think the TB select 60 needs a rotisserie restoration to be worth anything?

    About 3 years ago I bought a plain Jane 1990 white /red convertible 65,000 mile car here in Connecticut for $1,500

    I put about $500 into it to address electrical problems. Cluster bcm alternator. I even got the ac working. I wet sanded buffed and re-dyed the leather and sold it for $7,000 on eBay.

    I think the tb select 60 needs a top and tranny rebuild and a good going through and should be worth $10,000

    parts are dirt cheap and it came with a parts car.

    Even if it needs paint and a long block if it's running and looking good isn't it worth $6k minimum?

    the car fax was clean

    i wouldn't buy it to make money but what am I missing guys?

    the last reatta vert I did was the easiest I ever worked on. Is it the rust that concerns you? I regretted selling that car because it grew on me.

    thanks in advance for the advice.

    The L.A. S60 and TB.'s S60 is the same car.

    Car originally came from Chicago (spent many years there). TB probably broke even on the deal (considering shipping from L.A. to Mass.) but IMO, he's fortunate to do so. That's a project car of love because no matter the cost for a rotisserie restoration (that is what the car needs), you won't get your money back in this lifetime.

  17. I did the driver side last night.

    Went in like butter no wrestleing parts in like I thought just raised and lowered control arms with floor jack until holes lined up. Removing sway bar first with air impact gun helped tramendously.

    Passenger side a different story as I noticed inner CV joint on axel I just replaced in May was slinging grease every where so I called Napa and ordered a warranty replacement.

    So now I cant finish the job until next week.

    Old lower control arm bushings on 85,000 mile California car did not look as bad as I thought once I had them off. The bad ride quality and out of control after hitting bumps must have all been from shot struts.

    What is the torque spec on strut top mount bolts? I tried 45 lbs and thought bolts were going to snap so I just went by feel.

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