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xdmn

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Posts posted by xdmn

  1. This may sound ridiculous, but does this give someone an incentive to store a car for long periods of time (decades?) without having to register it? The reason I ask is because I am looking for my father's car (which I believe is/was in CA), and I wonder if someone may be storing it without registering it.

    Thanks,

    Rich

    It may indeed cause someone to store the car for long periods of time without registering it, which is the requirement in CA if it is used on the road. If you are going to store a car you own and it will not be on the road, you should file the required non-op form. The cost is minimal. One of the keys to keeping and using this statute is to not abuse it. Or use it as it was unintended. However, we find that for the most part, collectors are unaware of these statutes altogether.

  2. there is a separate code for custom built cars. they issue 500 new VIN's per year for newly constructed vehicles. Hot rod and modified vehicles ARE eligible to fall under this code as long as the vehicle fits the 25 years old or older part. Again, DMV is not and should not be in the business of determining what is collectible. We should be careful not too abuse this though.

    Bill Adams

    209-402-6167

  3. -QUOTE=58Mustang;1366821]I see no mention of originality in the above statutes. Only age and historic interest is mentioned.

    Age is the main factor in dealing with this(25 yrs old and older or a model of which there were less than 2500 sold in CA in a model year). The DMV should not be(nor are they) in a position to tell anyone what is collectable and what is not. There are people out there collecting and restoring Pinto's for heavens sake. I deal with this issue almost weekly and I can assure anyone out there, the law and the statues are on our side. In no case have I ever lost this argument with the DMV. You just have to be willing to escalate it to me or know the DMV code good enough to show them what is correct. Just last week I was on the phone with a 17 year DMV employee at the phone center and a supposed expert on this statute that was telling me there was some magical list of "collectible" vehicles that DMV maintained. There is no such list. Bill 209-402-6167

  4. Have a friend with a 41 Windsor with Fluid Drive and the vacumatic trans looking to get the torque converters re-done. They need the pressed in bearing repaired or replaced. There are some carbon bushings and he has some reproduced ones already. Everyone I have spoken to thus far has never had to have the torque converters worked on. Any help or assistance on where to look or whom to talk to would be appreciated.

  5. 62 Imperial 4 dr runs and drives excellent as a 33,000 mile car should

    62 Imperial - a set on Flickr

    car was sitting in a storage shed for 16 years. Purchased from original family. Has never been sold other than new. Excellent documentation. Have original canceled check to purchase car along with service records and registrations going back to 1963. Documented and certified original 33K miles. In excellent shape with no seriousrust or corrosion. A few spots of surface rust, can see in pics. Interior has age cracks on drivers seat but SMS fabrics out of Oregon has the original material available. Will include samples they sent to me. All chrome and stainless is superb. Car drives and rides magnificently. Power windows and seat works great. Original paint shined up nicely although it is very thin as was common back then. All is original except for hoses and belts that were replaced for normal maintenance. More pictures available as well as photos of all original documentation upon request. $14,000 obo

    Bill Adams 209-402-6167 or xdmn@yahoo.com

    car has been in California all it's life and currently is in Oakdale, CA

    post-79096-143139332202_thumb.jpeg

  6. Thanks for lending your insight to everyone that did. This is not regarding an AACA club but since I am a member, I figured this was an old argument that surely some of you have dealt with from time to time. I got what I asked for, added perspective. I do think that over time, as numbers naturally diminish, we will all have to slowly but surely come together as car enthusiasts to be perhaps fewer, but stronger as well. AACA has the structure and horsepower to do just, when the time comes. When I meet with clubs on behalf of ACCC(Association of California Car Clubs and Collectors), the biggest concern I hear is "what will happen to our cars and our hobby when we go to the great wrecking yard in the sky?" As I said, those of us left to carry the torch will just have to get better at advocating for our hobby. I'm no spring chicken any more myself(42) but I am concerned as well with the attrition rate of some of these older clubs like the one I am involved with.

  7. I think if you get the right antique car insurance, some don't dictate when or how you can enjoy your cars. Only that you must have at least one car that is insured as a normal daily driver. I enjoy driving everything I have that is driveable. This is generally dictated by the weather. This time of year it gets rather warm so on days over 90, I end up driving my regular car(truck) as it has great A/C. I do drive my collectible cars whenever possible though. That to me, is the point of owning and enjoying them.

  8. Thanks everyone for the replies. I support having a national organization that is supported by the region members and joining both. I am trying to explain to a regional organization the benefits of joining the national one. Not just the newsletter, but the ability to collaborate with many others across the country is a big deal for me. The only organizations out there that I have heard do not require you to join the national if you join a regional are the Plymouth club and I heard there was a Ford T-bird club. However, I cannot confirm either. The region sites on the Plymouth owners club site states you have to be a member of both.

    It seems to me that if the national organization is weak beyond the point of return then I could understand. However, if it is in ok to good shape, I would think you have to support the national club or there is the danger that the entire thing could implode.

    Perhaps a better question would be, how can a national club, better support the regionals? After all the regionals are the ones doing the majority of the events. They are organizinig the cruises, the local meetings, doing the recruiting, etc. Many times if you get a group that is active enough, others will want to join just to be included in the meetings and various events. However, they don't care to join the national club as they just wanted to associate with the local folks. Thus the issue. Sigh....

    The fear is that the region would loose some members if we aligned with the national club again. However, I am trying to look down the road and tie into the national organization for a variety of reasons with one of them being survival. The region membership has gone from 400+ 4 years ago to 175 today. I don't think it will get better without bringing in new members with new ideas and a fresh perspective. I know those numbers may sound good for a region. However, there are only 10-15 "active" members. The others state they are either too old to do anything any more or just are members to get the regional newsletter.

    What I have learned is that you are only as strong or effective as your active volunteers. This is where we are sorely lacking. I think what I may need to do is write out my position and send it to the members. Hopefully they will see the benefits both short term and long term for the region to not only survive but to thrive once again.

    I am reminded of Ben Franklins famous quote. "Genlemen, if we don't hang together, we will most assuredly hang separately"

    These are issues facing the hobby today as the typical car enthusiast gets older and there just are not the same numbers of us in the younger generations interested in classics like there used to be. Do we look at combining forces even more as numbers diminish to ensure survival of our beloved cars?

  9. I would like to hear others perspective on regional clubs that don't want to be a part of a national club. I am certain that national organizations deal with this regularly and I am an advocate of being both a member of the region as well as the national club. However, many in the region continually question the merits of being involved in the national organization or joining it in the first place. What other tangible benefits does a national club offer to it's regions besides a newsletter. The regions are generally the ones that recruit, organize events, and hold local meetings. The nationals would not survive without the regional support(in my opinion) but does anyone care to speculate as to what a national organizations brings to the table and what they could do to better support their regions.

    Does AACA have an opinion on this?

  10. Thanks for the help Rusty. Looks like it is a 42 vintage. got it apart and it is in great condition with no ridge and only 1 stuck valve. With the exception of the crack between the valve and the cylinder in the #8 cylinder. So far 2 straight 8's and can't get one good one yet. will keep searching

  11. Found what seems to be a 1962 Chrysler 300 sport that seems to be very highly optioned for a sport. Looks like basically all of the H items but dual quads and the H interior. Everything else is there that could be optioned. there is a fender tag, I would like to be able to confirm it though before I throw some money at the guy.

    I have searched for a good site to help decode a 62 fender tag but cannot seem to find one. Anyone got any suggestions?

  12. Need help to ID an engine if anyone has the info, it would be much appreciated.

    Chrysler straight 8 industrial engine.

    numbers on side of head

    IND-9-1372

    numbers on block plate under manifold.

    C36-5427

    1337

    Casting numbers stamped back by starter

    871229

    7 17

    I think this is a 323.5 at about a 37 to 38 vintage. Anyone know how to decipher these numbers?

  13. Thanks for the help. Figured it out with the help of Jim's post. thank you. Here is a quote from the poly busings web site

    "NOTICE!

    Some late 80's FWD cars had a universal

    style bracket welded in to where the factory

    bushings went into the k-frame. Not sure if

    it was because a shortage on factory style

    bushing or what the reason was. To replace

    these you will need a "universal" style "D"

    bushing that fits the welded in bracket."

    looks like I have this style. you can look into the part and see that the saddle is welded in on top of the place where the original bushing would go. I will order a set of the other type from John Spiva at polybushings. Guess I could grind them out but for 16 bucks, i'll leave them in. Funny thing to. I know John Siva from when I used to live in Oregon though this was in the Portland area. Looks like he moved to Coos Bay. He has one heck of a bad a$$ GLHS Omni. Looking forward to calling him tomorrow to order the parts. Thanks again for everyones help.

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