Beemon
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Posts posted by Beemon
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I sent BEEMON a message. If I read it right in an other post, he went to a dual MC with dual 7" brake booster. Let see how he did it.
I was just reading this thread, was wondering when my thread would pop up! I'm at work right now, but the swap is costly. The front discs will work with the original master cylinder, but you have to add a proportioning valve to the rear line since it takes longer for drums to engage braking force than discs. Going to a dual master cylinder is a completely different beast, but in my opinion is worth it in the long run if you plan to drive it more than just to shows.
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Not to bring this topic back to the top of the list, but has anyone tried or heard of using a Tri-Five electric motor? I know that one is cable operated, but the mounting flange is offset for one year.
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Don't have an issue with "AO", but definitely from "AY" and "I".
It's not that I was okay with spending $500, just want that to be a good, dependable investment. Good to know it will be, but wanted to see about exploring other options. I'm sure its more simple than it looks, but if I can't get away with just replacing O-rings and seals, then I'm definitely going to be sending it in. Thanks for the info!
BTW what would you call the color on the body? Black or cast iron? lol
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Just take the seals and O-rings to a bearing/seal supplier (or measure carefully yourself) and match. I could help if it was a 55....
Others have used a gm Saginaw 605 box in converting a 56 to power steering, with some mods.
I have heard of the 605 box mod, but I'm trying to go with as little mods as possible. Doesn't the steering shaft have to be shorter?
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I sourced a pump kit, so I'm good there. Before the gear box started weeping, I had to tighten the adjustment screw way down to take play out of the steering wheel and it still had some, so I don't know what the condition of the gear is, but while I have it out I may as well try and do it myself. Do you have sizes for the o rings by chance or would I be able to get away with buying a $5 o ring universal kit?
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So I pulled this monster the other day because it's been seeping ATF from just about every break in the cast molding. It cleaned up really nice and the original factory yellow paint is still there.
I've heard of Lares rebuilding service, but they want $400 and that's without round trip shipping (probably ~$500?) A local truck shop wants $400-500 to rebuild it also, so I'm probably going to send it off locally. My question is, how hard is it to rebuild these things? I figure since I have it out, I could at least dismantle it and if need be, deliver in parts. My only concern is the gear on the inside being worn. Also what was this thing originally colored? I'm assuming the pressure valve was brass and the body was black? Thanks!
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As far as I know, the only piece sold for the booster section is the leather seal. If the rUber is going bad, try to source out some quality vacuum tubing. The rest of it is springs and diaphragms and I haven't seen anything like that on the market. I rebuilt mine in 2011 and couldn't find anything other than the MC kit and leather piston cup.
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I drove the car on the highway today, a good 30 miles one way, and I think I confirmed the choked muffler theory. While accelerating, my newly working vacuum gauge dropped to zero under a heavy hill climb. To my understanding, it isn't supposed to go to zero under load and the range is supposed to be more like 5 inches. If you followed my other, recent thread, you would see I just got my vacuum gauge and wipers working properly. Can't be more thankful as it started to downpour on the highway on the way back home! Definitely putting exhaust in the budget this year, though. I guess it had enough clearance to flow sufficiently at idle and low load situations, but not enough under acceleration.
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Checking back in. Timing at 5*, at 16 inches of vacuum. On all 3 of my gauges, +/-.5*.
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I have yet to advance the timing but I was curious. Old tank why do you generally set your timing to about 7 degrees? I read in another thread while I was doing research that you set all of your Buicks to 7 degrees and I was wondering what type of benefits you gain from doing this.
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Cam is stock, everything on the engine is original except for a 401 spring retainer. My engine only had 15 when I got it
I'll reset timing tomorrow after I get out of school and report back. The only other thing I can think of is a choked muffler, but the vacuum gauge days otherwise.
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I'm sorry I often forget this myself, but my uncle had the heads shaved in the 80s. I don't know by how much but if I recall correctly, this would increase the compression ratio? I think I remembered reading that high performance vehicles with higher compression ratios have lower vacuum at idle. Is that correct as well?
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I've been battling timing issues for a while. Since I started this project, I've been checking vacuum in line with the pump, which is wrong. I've since hooked up a gauge to the manifold, and I'm reading at 15 inches of vacuum of 5* BTDC. The idle is smooth, but the vacuum gauge keeps telling me I have late ignition and sometimes off the line I have a bit of hesitation. I had to advance the distributor almost 15* for 18 inches of vacuum and the car idle hunts now. There is definitely an increase in power and driveability at this new timing, but would prefer a steady RPM at idle. I was naive at the time I had a shop rebuild the distributor for me, so I didn't ask about springs and weights (admittedly this is the first car I've ever worked on this extensively and everything I touch is new to me), so I don't know if the curve is the same or not. Has anyone else had timing issues with the Pertronix module? I'm starting to think that this is also a possible problem.
Also, curious, but what grade of gas do most people use?
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Just wanted to give an update on the whole vacuum situation since I've finally had time to sit down and work it out between school, homework and work (Calculus 4 can really drain a fellow).
When the car was new, my grandfather installed this Stewart Warner Motor Minder, except he ran it through the vacuum lines ahead of the pump. Me not knowing any wiser had it in line with the pump as well (not that it mattered, it was seized up). I finally got around to dismantling the gauge and freeing it up. It works just as well as the vacuum gauge I've been using.
I took the original T my grandfather used and put it right before the pump next to the generator.
I then ran the six feet of tubing down the length of the engine on the original steel vacuum tubes, and in through the firewall parallel to the vacuum pump lines. I'd also like to point out that while doing this, I pulled the wiper motor and loaded it up with silicone grease like Old-Tank suggested. Firing up the car with it all hooked up and letting it warm up before taking it for a drive, I came back with an idle of almost exactly 16-17 inches of vacuum from the manifold (would like to see it higher). When the wiper is off, there is no decrease in vacuum, and with it on there is about a half an inch difference. This is a mighty mission accomplished I must say. Thanks for the advice!
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I had the motor rebuilt not too long ago, but I did a test the other day where I just wired the vacuum wiper motor into the system, plugged the control tube and ran the Y to a vacuum gauge. With the engine running and the motor off, I get 15 inches of vacuum. Now when you say valve at the top, do you mean the valve that controls the action of the plunger or the valve that is shifted from on to off?
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I just don't like the vacuum drop. Without it hooked up, I get 19-21 inches of vacuum. With it hooked up, I get 15.
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Kent, between Renton and Auburn
I let the silicone cure overnight, got off work and took the car for a drive. No more loud noises from the engine compartment, which means its all sealed up! Did make me reconsider having the vacuum wipers rebuilt, should have bought an electric motor.
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Well I pulled them back off today, none of them were cracked and they all looked pretty flat. I used a steel square to check the plane, and no noticeable height differences. They were out of the red RTV so I used orange instead (they told me it works the same, just goes up to 700*F).
I remember when my engine used to look so clean... any tips?
And what lovely wheather we've been having in Washington, the view from my shop is anything but gloomy.
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Easy enough to check with a straight edge...I use a carpenters level. Report back.
Probably will not be until Monday or Tuesday. I did want to pull them off last night and tonight, however issues arose involving the opposite sex had prevented such activities. While I was out, I did pick up a FEL-PRO gasket set from the local NAPA (love those guys), so worse case I'll just pop the gaskets back in. It's looking like that's going to be the route to go, given the exhaust leaks currently. I suppose worst case scenario, I buy some 364-401-425 headers and heliarc the square holes round.
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Just wanted to note that my manifolds were off the car from 1982 to 2015. Would that cause slight warping enough to warrant a gasket?
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I was informed that my 322 shouldn't use gaskets, so I stripped the gaskets yesterday and now I'm chasing exhaust leaks. I guess that's my lesson for fixing an issue that doesn't exist...
So for those that do use gaskets, which gaskets should I try using in that area? Mr Gasket? FEL-PRO? Or the stuff from Bob's/CARS, Inc.?
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This`s how the fuel gauge looks inside,and I`m sure 95% of the gauge problems depends on the bad conetact inside the gauge.(To check the fuel sender on the fuel tank is easy to do with an OHM-meter).When I had problem with my fuel gauge I just put my hand inside the dash and tuched on the contact skrews,maybe 1/32 left and right with the ignition ON,then can can see if anything happends on your fuel gauge.
Leif in Sweden.
Are you saying to wiggle the contact screws until there is a proper ground?
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This has been bothering me for quite some time, and being without a sufficient cash flow to tackle my larger projects, I feel this can be accomplished relatively easy (though usually not the case). I have resealed the gas tank and replaced the sender. The sender works great when the gauge wants to. During normal operation, the guage on full reads half a tank, sometimes more and rarely at the full mark. My refill habbits tend to be when the gauge pings a little lower than half a tank, which is interestingly only 6-8 gallons, which I know is not half a tank. When I had my speedometer rebuilt, I tested the gauge first by unplugging it and then touching the contacts to the connectors (not plugging them back in) while the switch was on, and the gauge worked correctly, reading the correct amount flawlessly. I would then reconnect the wires, the gauge worked fine, turn the key off, turn the key back to on and the gauge would only go up half way.
Is this a grounding issue with the gauge or the sender? I wouldn't think either since the gauge works as intended when the wires are disconnected and reconnected. I even took sand paper and scuffed up all contact surfaces really well to make sure there wasn't any grime to prevent contact. When the wires are disconnected, the gauge pointer disappears into the full area, so I think the ground is fine. The only thing I can think of is the leather ground strap on the sender itself isn't grounding properly or not at all and is causing a resistance, but I don't see how that's possible.
Any help in this area greatly appreciated!
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Noobie question, but what's the difference? I couldn't find the dipstick for my 322 so I pulled one off a 55 at the local classic junk yard. The problem is, when I fill oil to 1 qt, it bleeds oil until it's around 2 qt. I've been battling with an oil bleed for a month now since it's been colder and it likes to bleed from the distributor seal, oil pressure gauge outlet and fuel pump pin. Thanks in advance!
55 buick century window washer pump
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Be careful with that kit! I purchased it for my buick, but it's not the right kit for the pumps that have the coordinator, control, washer and vacuum inlet/outlets.
The only thing that was wrong with my pump was the springs had rusted out. Cars also sells the large spring and that's all I needed.