ironmike4134
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Posts posted by ironmike4134
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To test the coil and the SBEC, the manual states you construct a jumper wire with a .33 mf capacitor in line... you can then use this on the positive side jumped the battery or to a pin on the SBEC or the negative side... for other tests... So my problem, where do you find a 12v .33 MF capacitor? tried radio shack and other local electroncs outlets... anyone know where to get one?
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To twin cam fan.. or anyone else? You posted "...run a 12V 'jumper' wire to the + side of the coil, this bypasses the ASD relay "....
What do you do with the negative side? Ground it or go back into the plug? I am trying to bypass the ASD... I have fuel pressure, but now no spark...
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:confused: So continuin my saga... 1991 V6. Hooked up a volt meter to the + of the coil... and no power... let it sit for 10 mins (cools off?) and then I get power.
Background... car has been shutting off intermittently since I bought it 3 months ago... Fixed blown head gasket and then have been trying to fix this intermittent shut off problem ever since (includes TPS, fuel regulator, fuel pump, plugs, cap, rotor, new distributor (so think the optic sensor should be fine) and new coil). Drive the car 3 miles down the road (or less) and it just dies. Wait 10 mins, starts up... few miles... dies... When it dies, I get no spark (nor voltage to the coil)... when it runs, spark and voltage.
My question... are there any other sensors or relays that might shut off spark? coolant sensor (new also) or O2 or? I am really beginning to think my SBEC (engine controller) is the culprit, but that is just another couple hundred to find out!
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Thanks for the suggestion Bill. The V6 has an optic senson in the distributor that deteremines cam position. I replaced the entire distributor (costs as much as the optic sensor alone). It does seem to be some kind of electrical issue. My fuel preasure is spot on and I am getting spark, but the spark seems to sometimes be non-existent. Even when the spark is there it does not want to start now. The Autoshutoff ASD shuts off the injectors... so maybe something to do with that or with the control module. I am going to try to jump it tonight and see.
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changed the coil... same problem... now seeing about checking the compute or wiring to the computer.
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tc toy... with removing your cat, do you no longer pass smog? or maybe you dont care if you are registed as a historical vehicle in AZ?
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doesnt a bad coil usually fail completely. I have not heard of it working some times and failing others? i.e. intermittent
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:confused:V6 1991. Replaced fuel pump, fuel regulator, filter, distributor (thought it was optic sensor). Get no codes (using check engine light method) and yet my car still dies occassionally (usually only when it is warmed up). I travel 3-5 miles and the thing just quits. Then after I wait about 5 mins or so, I can start it back up. All the temp guages read normal (but I do get some coolant overflow out of the overflow container. Have also replaced the TPS and coolant sensor (and radiator hoses and thermostat). I have tried to rattle every wire in the engine and cant get it to die... but then suddenly quits on it's own. I dont think it is the ASD relay as I would think that would be on or off vs intermittent.
When I bought the car it had a blown head gasket (no water in oil nor oil in water, but was steaming out). I fixed that and then have had this intermittent problem since. One other thing, I think my catalytic converter is bad because I am hearing a rattle in it.
Any ideas?
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I just dropped my tank... one end goes back to canister and the other end goes to nothing... unfortunately the plastic snapped when I did this and now I need the valve. Where did you find one?
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I am going for the fuel pump now... replaced the distributor, replaced the regulator... problem seemed to be better, but it still cuts out. It now appears to cut out more when it is hot outside. In the morning when it is cool it runs no problem, on the way home from work in 100+ phoenix, it cuts off... wait 2 mins... starts up again.
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How much vacuum should a 91 V6 produce? My car suddenly dies after 20 mins or so, then is a hard restart... replaced the distributor (optic sensing unit) and fuel regulator... dies less often now, but still does it.
The vacuum is 20 when I read it off the line to the fuel regulator.:confused:
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Jim thanks, my tach does all the sudden go to zero, then jumps around usually when it dies... more confirmation that the distibutor sending unit (optic sensor assumed) is the culprit... then I definitely have a fuel issue because when I turn on the key I get 10psi... then sometimes shoots up to 40psi... then drops fairly quickly (believe it is the regulator).
My approach... change fuel filter, change regulator (about $100), find the optic sensor or replace the distributor with reman one... and thenpray the fuel pump is good.
Also replaced all the rubber hoses as the previous owner put on regular fuel hoses vs high pressure ones.
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An update... read some past posts and saw others had this same problem. It turned out it was the optic sensor in the distributor not reading correctly... but also I did some fuel preassure tests and it looks like my preassure is bad (too low)... going back through posts on that.
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what is the cost? I think I found some online at a dodge parts place.
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I have tried these sources.. autozone lists one on special order.. but when they check with the company to order, they no longer carry them... tried the other brand of cars (daytona, lebarons) all same part so no one carries them... Dealer also does not carry. I think I need to proceed to get it cleaned/flushed.
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Cant find anyone who still makes an AC condensor... also tried other equivalent models, all seem to be obsolete.
Saw this on cleaning a condensor "
Something else to keep in mind about flushing is that it follows the path of least resistance. In a serpentine-style condenser, there is only one path the refrigerant can follow so the flushing chemical will follow the same path from the entrance to the exit. In a parallel flow condenser, the flush may not flow through all the tubes if some are partially or completely blocked. Attempting to flush a dirty parallel flow condenser, therefore, is probably a waste of time."
If it is serpentine flow, then I can clean it... if not think I need to send to a shop to have it cleaned (rodded like a radiator?).
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You got it Jim... I am thinking it is because the motor is still moving and somehow the gas or spark cut, then come back? Remember I am going 75 down the freeway... so I am thinking it is still spinning the motor when either the spark or gas or ASD comes back.
On the RPM it is just the tach, so not reliable... probably shuts off because of loss of elec vs the motor is not spinning. So yes agree someing electrical or ignition.
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I think it is a gas issue... it shuts off my rpm goes to zero, the fires back up... only happened once or twice, mostly it stays off. think it is because of the way the asd works when in run position and getting gas. fixed a gas leak so hoping that solved the problem.
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thanks... replaced them all already... today I went out and jiggled the fuel lines around.. and when I did I got a spray... so I am assuming for now I was just losing preassure... will drive for awhile and see
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:confused:been looking for this and cant find one at any autoshop... or from chrysler... I am thinking mine is bad as I have high preasure after replacing compressor and drier... probably plugged or restricted. My car has been converted to R134 and if they did it wrong it could be gummed up... dont really want to flush as I hear it may not get it all... would rather just replace the condensor. Thoughts
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thanks, I will give that a shot... I am thinking a ground somewhere or something that is given a messages to the autoshutoff ASD that there is not gas... then it is like you say... a loose wire that loses connection for a second... shuts off (asd in run position with no gas) then connects again and the asd relay opens again and it starts running again... it only turns on itself if the problem is immediate vs shuts down completely.
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:confused:While driving or some times at a stop, my engine will just quit... sometimes (while driving or moving) it will restart on its own, but most times (while stopped I need to try to restart it with the key (put it in nuetral). Problem is intermittent. I am worried it is the auto shut down relay... but that would make me think it would always be on or off vs intermittent... that then points to some kind of fuel sensor (ASD is supposed to shut off the engine when no fuel is detected) or it is the ECM.
Any thoughts? car runs fine most of the time and can drive for 20 miles with no problems, then just out of the blue... shut off. I could get some kind of fuel guage to see if preassure is gone, but dont think that is the problem... dont know what would monitor fuel flow? to cause an automatic shutoff... and dont want to just swap the ECM as I dont know it is the culprit.:confused:
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very difficult to get. I looked all over, no parts stores or dealers and no one seemed to have anything equivalent. The best bet is ebay or the tcparts guy. I got lucky as I just pulled mine and they were just sticking (had not been run in awhile... I cleaned em up and then hooked them straight to the battery... that got them moving and I put them back and have not have a problem with them since.
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found the issue... the printed circuit board has a strip that goes off to the lamps... this strip is tricky... if I move it around the warning lamps light... probably need a new circuit board at some point... but was able to at least read my codes (needs a TPS)... 12 24 55.
no power to the coil... sometimes
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
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I removed the relay and jumped between the 30 and 87 slot... this bypasses the asd and runs the pump etc... I still had the problem... it has to be wiring or computer (SBEC). I also tested the relay (as best I can with a multimeter and it appears good)