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Mutt's37Buick

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Posts posted by Mutt's37Buick

  1. I'm selling many parts from a 1995 Buick Roadmaster with 52000 miles.
    Parts fit 92 thru 96 Buick Roadmasters.
    Selling parts for less than half of what salvage yards ask.
    The car and parts are very clean have always been garaged.
    I'm located in Broomfield CO.
    I can ship virtually anywhere at a discounted rate so please check out my ad at:
    ://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/50-off-parts-1995-buick/6696224422.html

    Thanks,
    Mutt's37Buick

    Cropped front left.jpg

    Crop garage out.jpg

  2. I'm finally ready to tackle the rust repair on the bottom of the doors of my 1937 Buick. Like most panels, there are no aftermarket parts, so I need to fabricate. The shape has a large radius leading into a .875" radius near the bottom that leads into a sharp corner and vertical tab (return). The part is further complicated by the gradual curve of the door from front to back.
    1)  Does anyone have suggestions as to equipment, or process to fabricate this shape?

    2) The ends of the doors appear to have a folded over hem that captures the sides.  Has anyone fabricated this section and can you show me how it was accomplished?

    021 Right rear door compressed.jpg

    Bottom of rear door, compressed.jpg

    Bottom of rear door shows lip, compresssed.jpg

    Inside RT RR door bottom rust.jpg

  3. Thanks for the help. I'll check out marine & boat building suppliers.

    My original screws are not SS, but SS may be OK.

    One concern about 18-8 SS (or 304SS) is they are not as strong as carbon steel with Zinc plating.

    Can anyone share experience 18-8SS screws on their door hinges in a pre-war car?

    It's also not best to paint SS, so screws that are used in other spots that will be painted would still be best as Zinc plated steel.

    Thanks,

    Mutt

  4. Can anyone point me to a source for Slotted Oval Head Machine Screws that are used to attach door hinges on a 1937 Buick Roadmaster.

    On the original screws, the heads are a little larger diameter than standard oval head machine screws and a sketch is attached.

    The original heads have an outer diameter of .490" and a standard modern oval head has an OD of .442" to .477".

    The screws vary with position from about 1.5 to 3.75" in length.

    Thanks

     

    post-116561-0-87619900-1457041981_thumb.

    post-116561-0-18066100-1457042064_thumb.

  5. Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions. I took the tank to a local radiator shop who cleans and repairs gas tanks. He said it could be done, but based on the amount of repair on the top and amount of gunk in the bottom, he recommended I go a new tank route. Looks like a new 72 Nova tank can be modified to work. As per your suggestions, the good thing about a new tank is I could have the inlet made at a muffler shop and I could MIG weld it in without concern of fire.

  6. Picture of dense, gas resistant rubber I ordered from McMaster Carr. It worked very well on my car. -7 here this morning. The shop is cold!

    Tom

    Thanks very much for your offer.

    That looks like that foam will would work well.

    I'll measure the original and see how much I need.

    I could pay for shipping through Paypal, if you would like.

    Mutt

  7. I picked up fender washers at my local hardware store, in a couple of sizes. Then, I just used the largest diameter that could be accommodated. Seems like bigger is better in this case.

    Thanks for your feedback, I'm planning on using larger washers. I was curious what was originally shipped with the cars because I may try to return the washers.

  8. My 37 Roadmaster had a thick rubber seal right where the inlet pipe joins the tank. The picture shows the part after the rusted inlet cover was removed from the trunk. The thick, almost foam like, part probably prevents vibration and acts a sound barrier.

    1) I have not seen any aftermarket reproductions of this part and was wondering if anyone else has found one.

    2) If not, has anyone every fabricated such a part and what did you use?

    Thanks

    post-74328-143142979657_thumb.jpg

  9. I ordered fender washers (FW78-1) from oldbuickparts.com. See attached pdf.

    Did not pay attention to the dimensions and just assumed they would be large outer diameter fender washers like I removed.

    The old washers I removed were 1.25 OD and 5/16 ID.

    The parts I received from oldbuick parts are only 7/8 O.D. and they claim to replicate the original used on Buicks from 1936 to 1960

    These smaller washers just do not seem to be correct and I question their holding ability with the large slots in the fenders.

    1) Is this really the correct fender washers for a 37 Buick?

    Thanks

    Mutt

    Washer, Fender, .oldbuickparts.pdf

  10. Maybe the ones on your car have deformed from age, pressure of keeping the door closed, and heat of storage, and might have originally been in a shape similar to one of the examples?

    Also, I have not been able to get to where my '37 Roadmaster 80C is stored, but when I do, I'll get some photos of the trunk weathestrip for you

    Marty's bumpers are different that mine, but his car is a convertible Phaeton.

    On my car each door has two bumpers.

    The pictures at the start of this thread are the bumpers above the latch guide that is centered on the center post of the doors.

    My car also has the shown bumpers space equally below the latch guide.

    1) Does anyone have a 37 four door hardtop sedan Roadmaster that they could send pictures of the bumpers?

    Thanks

  11. OK - I got some pictures on the way to our Superbowl Party, and the answer is that there is a Rounded Seal attached to the trunk lid, AND a flat seal in the channel at the edge of the trunk of our 1937 Roadmaster 80C Phaeton (Convertible Sedan).

    I also checked the rubber bumpers at the doors, and my car has all 4 doors hinged at the front so it may be different from yours. Bumper only above the wedged chrome guide.

    Hope this helps, sent at Half-Time

    First Pic is upper left edge of trunk

    2nd is LOWER EDGE OF TRUNK LID

    3rd is Lower edge of trunk at floor

    4th is top of "B" Pillar where front door closes - Rubber Bumper is at top

    Marty

    Thanks Marty,

    Those pictures are perfect. Thanks very much for taking the time help with this information.

  12. Maybe the ones on your car have deformed from age, pressure of keeping the door closed, and heat of storage, and might have originally been in a shape similar to one of the examples?

    Also, I have not been able to get to where my '37 Roadmaster 80C is stored, but when I do, I'll get some photos of the trunk weathestrip for you

    Thanks for your help

  13. Mutt,

    I am in the process of my restoration and I just went through this on the phaeton. I got the 3/4 X 3/4 from Bobs and my body man is very pleased with the way it looks like it will fit when finished. I only got the one strip so I cannot advise you about the thin one. There are other 37 Roadmaster owners out here and hopefully someone with a sedan will jump in.

    R

    Thanks for the feedback.

    Did you install the 3/4 x 3/4 in the channel on the body or glue it to the trunk lid?

    My seals were totally dried out in my car and I cannot tell what they were attached to.

    Hoping someone with a 37 Roadmaster can tell what was original to the car.

  14. I'm working to buy bumpers for the doors for the 37 Roadmaster I'm restoring.

    Each door has two rubber bumpers mounted to the center post. One is above the latch and one below.

    They are about 1.5" x 1.5" with an angle outward.

    They do not have screws so I assume the press into holes.

    1) Has anyone seen bumpers like these on other Buicks?

    2) The suppliers I've checked do not seem to have equivalent, does anyone know where I can source?

    3) Are there other bumpers that are correct for this location?

    See pictures.

    Thanks

    post-74328-143142955696_thumb.jpg

    post-74328-143142955698_thumb.jpg

  15. I'm buying seals for the trunk on the 37 Roadmaster (model 81) I'm restoring.

    The suppliers all sell two seals.

    * one that 5/8 x 1/8 that is evidently stuck in the gutter in the body, and

    * one that is 3/4 x 3/4 with rounded top and hole down center that evidently is glued to the trunk lid.

    See pictures.

    1) Is it correct that I should use both of these seals on my car?

    2) Is there a difference between suppliers or do they all have same quality products for seals?

    Thanks

    post-74328-143142955677_thumb.png

    post-74328-143142955694_thumb.png

  16. Will it fit Riviera 65 ?

    I believe these three wheels will fit a 65 Riviera. Have not tried them on one, but everything I have seen on the internet says they will.

    If your wheels are 5 on 5 inch bolt diameter and that the inner hub diameter is 2.75 inches, then these should work.

    They will not work on a 59 to 64 Riviera because those have a 3.375 hub diameter.

  17. Have three 65 - 66 Buick Steel Wheels 15 x 6

    Fit full size 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 Buicks

    5 on 5 bolt pattern

    2.75" hub diameter

    4 slots will hold clips for use with poverty caps and trim rings

    Wheels also work with full size hubcaps

    All are straight with good paint and only minor rust at hubcap contact

    I bought these for one of my projects, but discovered they are not compatible with my hubs

    Asking $30 each + you pay shipping. Paypal for payment

    PM, Call, or text Gene at: 303-907-1955

    post-74328-143142946563_thumb.jpg

  18. +1

    I don't know the actual pattern size, but I do know that Century wheels will NOT fit on my 37 Roadmaster. If you need actual measurements let me know as I will be with the car this Friday or Saturday (the body man has some questions).

    Thanks for the offer, but I don't need any measurements at this time. The information from MCHinson is enough validation for me that my car is still stock.

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