Highlander160
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Posts posted by Highlander160
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NOS Ford A/C compressor, field coil and pulley in the Ford boxes. NEW. $200 plus actual shipping costs. Respond here or text-call:
Seven 34 6 37 14 21
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Parking, spaces, blah-freakin-blah. In today's vernacular, "dayum bruh, you mad?" Why? Here's an idea, interview every space purchased by members. Demand inventory listings, intended days/hours of attendance and vending, age, particular diet choices, and any other demographic some of the more chronic above are waxing on so much about. Or, stop it already. This was a unique week in the history of the great AACA Eastern Fall Meet. Wanna cry about something? Start and stop with the panic of 2020. Yeah, I said panic. It cost us the meet. Come and see me next year at the northeast end of south chocolate. You can rest in my parking space and watch carts and mobility scooters parade by, give em a wave, watch em buy stuff. Yeah, carts or not they're buyers. Get it? Buyers. Or start a campaign to get these thousands of vendors to cater to the whims of the same ol-same ol rasp by so few. Or don't go. Or demand a refund of your entry ticket...🤭🤭🤭
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I only had 1 measly complaint (which turned to a wet bowel movement as a topic!) but past that, hey it's Hershey. It's immpossible to screw it up! Not everyone is willing or really needs an EZ-UP but it's a good idea. We all pay our space $$ to get in and if there's an extra or 2 for parking than so be it. Some camp and never leave the field. That's a dadgum hershey species! Let em buy the space cuz they probably brought y'all some good stuff. How about big vendor who offer deep deals and have a 1/2 dozen spaces? Want them to park across the road and walk in or buy enough parking for their crew? I approached this year with a "contribute to the brotherhood of this life" attitude. I priced and sold and laughed and met new friends for that. So what, we had weather. It happens. How many folks from those hurricane regions simply couldn't leave their homes for any number of reasons? Steve was right, "glass 1/2 empty" in his commentary. Some say 1/2 empty, some say 1/2 full, I say "hey you gonna drink that?". So you can bet I'll be sipping a glass of Hershey next year and as many as can to follow.
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Available at Hershey C2I 117-119
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Why only 30? These old glorified "farm implements" need a heavier shield of oil. Modern engines run 5W 30, modern engines have tight clearances, these old girls have big ones because of how things expand. Step up to 10W 40, you won't hurt a thing. 30 was for very cold climates. If in doubt consult a service manual. I run 50 in old engines with miles on em. No issues, full stop. Well only 1 issue, the oil pressure builds quicker and stays on hot days. Your results may vary, tax n title extra, void where prohibited, see your retailer for details, no purchase necessary...😉
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I'm waking a "zombie" topic, I know (for some). I've been curious for some time about where the all silver car went. I heard Canada. Anyone know?
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So early Vettes, AD and newer trucks, 53 and up passenger cars. Yes, as new as it looks.
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You're getting a fair shake here. Best advice seen above is to do the wod repairs now. You have the perfect fixture to align to. Once it's all done you still want to brace the body. I tack up ¾ X ¾ box tube with tabs for small deck screws. Always best to lift at the main sills.
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Matt, something dawned on me here. Fuel in the oil, are we sure that you're not suffering a fractured mechanical pump diaphram? It's possible the fuel is dilluting the oil right down the fill tube. There's normally a weep hole to show the pump is bad but it seems nothing is normal about this gig. The stall symptom could be that it floods due to excess pumping as the electric never sees much pressure drop from the mechanical to the carb. Also if someone mullered up the mechanical with a bad rebuild they may even have the check valves in the wrong places. I don't remember if that's possible but something other than the carb is putting that much volume in the oil pan. I'm in the same church, same pew, that these 12s are not the powerhouse some think they are. Perhaps one of the most limp-wristed big car motors ever. Still, once they get sorted they're at least acceptable to move all that iron but the average 40 Ford will knock it's di...uh, oops, junk in the dirt. Forgot where I was for a minute.
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It's not the ferrules that are wrong, its probably the fitting they're going into. Odds are that's a Holley/Ford style carb vs a Stromberg. They are quite sensitive to power valve (economizer) foibles. A couple backfires and they often get trashed. Worth a look. If you can access the bowl vent shoot some carb cleaner in it, let it sit an hour or more. Start the car, rev it up, and stall it with your hand or something at a high rev. I know, hack-janky-hillbilly "fix" for sure but if it gets better when you restart you know you have to get into the carb. Cheap diagnostic. Good luck.
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No matter what you pick try for something that has an almost cult status in club support. Packard, Studebaker, Auburn, Pierce (somewhat), and of course Cadillac/LaSalle. All pretty strong club support. Odd cars may have clubs too but their scarcity tends to carry into parts availability as well. Lots of swap meet searches just for spares to have on the shelf, where you can get dadgum near anything for a Packard. I said NEAR, I well know there's unobtainiums in all makes. But you Will tell us what you picked, right?
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Missing? Wow, where does it go?
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Sorry, sometimes I can't help it.🤭
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Fat or lean? Black smoke or no smoke? Lean will sputter ot the carb, fat out the exhaust trying to burn excess fuel. Vacuum leaks are demons, maybe there cold, maybe there only hot. Safest approach is an unlit propane torch near all the usual suspects like carb base and manifold fittings and gaskets, engine will speed up, fan will blow away unused propane. Starting fluid is best used on a cold running engine. BE SAFE. No vacuum leak, so new points and condenser but how are the advance flyweights in the distributor? Stuck closed or open? Does the dist have a vacuum pod? Is it working? Does the point plate rotate? Carb redone. By who? Per the original engineering or full of old urban legends like you don't need a power valve (economizer)? These things matter. I've installed new condensers that were bad right away. Import stuff sux. If all that is perfect, flathead inlines can stick valves easily when left to sit. Some never got freed up and never seat. It'll run but suffer under load. Also, a well done reset of the tappet clearance will improve things tremendously. Almost every inline 6 has the same firing order so 6 and 6 with a simple 180 degree turn of the crank is the best way, and that info can be found as to which at TDC and which at 180 deg from TDC. Show this to someone near you that likes this stuff and it will all make sense. AND, I hope this basic info will help fellow afflicted car folk interested in this topic. Good luck, but please tell us when you find it and what it was. That helps too.
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So funny how I get told I tell too much and show too much when I sell a car. Guess what, over 50 years on and off and never had anything but smiling faces and even lifetime friends from it. It's so easy to tell it like it is. No surprises. We need dealers and flippers too. Are you gonna comb the country and seek stuff out? Do you have a decades long network of people and places to get this "raw material" for this life? Do you milk your own cows and grow your own veggies too? Do you have a forge and a sawmill and a textile mill?
Painting us all with the same brush is bad manners. And what about the other side? Do I really not deserve a profit for finding, transporting, preparing something for sale? For holding parts inventory? Should I only get 10 singles for a $10 bill? If I found a Duesenberg for $150k and it's worth $600K on the open market what should I sell it for? I have a standard answer when a prospective buyer asks what I paid for something. "Nothing. In fact I got paid to remove it and could keep whatever I wanted." Greed is something different than fair market. Then theres the guy who gets a no rust fender, meaning never a hole or patch ever, but when he sees the edge has a little surface rust from worn paint he loses his mind and wants to file suit for misrepresentation. Ok, rant over but I hope I made my point. This topic picks a scab. Can ya tell?
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Wow, lots to unpack. Parameters seem limited. Just buy and drive? Something put away and ready to awaken? Price limit? I mean, a new dually is near 100K for anything much over a rubber mat utility pkg so what does affordable mean?
Getting realistic let's try some of my opinion. I'm biased, some who know me already know what I'm going to suggest. Packard sedan. 1100 or 1101 is the target from 1934. Best steering, smooth, powerful, great brakes. Not unusual to see one in excess of 80K miles and still kicking, never rebuilt. Affordable? 40-60K depending on condition.
Now I'm going to be a wet blanket. Who, show of hands, thinks its smart to take to the freeways and run 70+MPH in ANY car 34 and older? Not me, not today. What kind of high speed freeway gymnastics do you think the above spoken Auburn can do when the stupid twit next to you is texting and runs you off the road? How fast will it stop? Can you swerve around an animal without rolling the car? I'm doing a hot rod 39 Ford with a heavy rear sway bar, dropped axle, gas shocks all around, and my target cruising speed is 60. Sure I can roll it faster but it was born in 39. Am I making too much sense yet? What's the hurry anyways? Enjoy the drive. And for the record I don't believe even ½ half the bloviating internet bravado about high speeds and such. Maybe you've touched a high speed but cruised for hours at 70? And got what, 5-6 MPG? Beat the snot outta your babbit? Ok, I'm done, but somebody had to say it.
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I thought this would, uh, spark some interest? 🤭
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Look at the pics, NOS, everything including cap n rotor. Sept 55 date I believe, and part# is quite visible. $150 shipped and insured. PM for ph# and add'l info. Postal MO preferred.
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I wouldn't steer ya wrong, NOS...😉
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Like the title says and a stunning part. Look at the pics, ask questions. Sept 55 date inside. All NOS, cap and all. $150 shipped and insured. Message me here for ph number or add'l info. Postal MO preferred pmt.
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Once again like the title says, NOS GM part, not a reman. All GM including cap rotor and points. No condenser (?) but otherwise in time machine new condition. Part# 1110291, dated 2 J 5 for Sept 5th 1962 for the 63 model year, but proper for all 63-65 V-6. How about $75 SHIPPED AND INSURED which is about ½ what a rebuild service might cost. Message me here or call/text: 734 6 3 7 14 21
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On 8/23/2022 at 1:32 PM, Frank DuVal said:
That's one thing I HATE about Costco and similar stores. They put stuff in those large plastic bubble/ cardboard containers to stop theft. I've cut myself pulling the product off the shelf! I agree do not use those, although I do not think they would be good for carburetor parts, and would need a sealing
Hand can opener. Internet hack that works for those hard plastic sealed pkgs.
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NOS complete with brackets and 5¾" 6V amber sealed beams. Never mounted, not dinged and dented, pretty dadgum good lookin NOS lights. $325 SHIPPED AND INSURED Postal MO preferred. Direct message here or text/call:
734 6 3 7 14 21
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Yup, that's right. NOS Ford not a repro. Very, very, very pretty part. There's 2 or 3 little shelf knicks, tried to picture em but they're so small. Just right finishing touch for that "Fridge" Ford pickup. $275 SHIPPED AND INSURED is a really friendly price considering repro is 279 and up. This is Ford. Look at the pics. Direct message here or text/call: 734 6 3 7 14 21
Postal MO preferred pmt. Thanks...
NOS A/C compressor, pulley and field coil
in Ford Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by Highlander160 (see edit history)
SOLD.
Thank you