stakeside
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Posts posted by stakeside
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This one that should not be restored. Very few of these left.
The seat would be easy to repair.
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1 hour ago, Tedhoule said:
Greetings, I have a Fargo truck serial #90051751 model F12-33 and would like to know what year it is and engine size, can anybody decode please.
Got any pictures?
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Good summary of lugs.
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If the oil reservoir behind the rear oil can not contain the oil flow it will overflow and drip out the bell housing. It may be the rear bearing is in poor shape the wear will allow excessive oil flow to the reservoir.
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Is there a reservoir between rear main and the flywheel? I found the oil flow to the reservoir was excessive and the return tube to the oil pan could pass the oil. As a result it overflowed and leaked out.
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Are these engines similar to the Dodge Bros engines?
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4 hours ago, ken77 said:
Hi all, I'm working on a 1929 chrysler roadster and the brake lines are 3/8 copper tubing. It seems that all of the fittings are leaking. Tried tightening them they still leak. Should I replace them with copper or use steel not sure what was originally used. Thanks
I still have the original copper lines in my 29 Dodge Bros truck and they do not leak. There are many fittings in the lines.
I have had problems with some of the brass fittings, They were cracked because of over tightening.
Curious what brake fluid are you using. I believe the DOT 5 fluid tends to weep more than DOT 4.
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My tank is specifically for my truck. Be sure and match tank size required for the vehicle.
Some engines have higher gas flow volume requirements. My DA6 truck needs longer 12 1/2 tank for more volume.-
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Check with Meyers dodge parts for rebuild kit.
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Just now, stakeside said:
These appear on this forum. Run an ad in the parts wanted section of this forum. I found mine on eBay.
Mine is a 216AF.
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41 minutes ago, JD-Auburn Fan - Alabama said:
Greetings from lower Alabama. New guy and hoping you can point me in the right direction for finding a part and give some insight on the package.
I'm trying to help a buddy out over in Europe that has a 1929 Dodge. He's been restoring it for quite some time now over the years and has reached out to me for some help in acquiring a part. Where in the world would I go about finding one? He passed along a 12 page manual that I'm including a few pictures of.
Steward Vacuum Gasoline System - Model 116-H
Greatly appreciate it.
JD
These appear on this forum. Run an ad in the parts wanted section of this forum. I found mine on eBay.
Mine is a 216AF.
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Could you post a picture. I am curious if they are Firestone rims.
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Not familiar with Buick trans but my 29 Dodge bros trans does not use seals in the trans. The trans used 600 wt oil. It appears almost like tar. Never had leakage if filled correctly.
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12 hours ago, Fraser M said:
Hi All, does anyone know if Fargo hood emblems are being reproduced?
I have picked up a 1941 Fargo pickup, needs a lot of work but it will be done
Great truck. Got any pictures to share.
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I do not know the type of seals for this engine but my 29 Dodge DA6 uses the oil sling system. Excess oil goes to a reservoir in the oil pan and drains into the pan. I found that excessive main bearing wear would produce more oil than reservoir could handle resulting in the reservoir overflowing.
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13 hours ago, carbking said:
Apparently, there was an early and a late intake manifold. Remember the manuals were printed prior to production of the vehicles; and of course would not show mid-year changes, the service bulletins show those.
There is no mention in the Stromberg records of a UX-2 for the Senior 6. Not arguing the point, simply looking at the Stromberg records.
Stromberg did release the UX-2 for the Standard Six and the Victory Six.
I don't have the date when the TX-2 (2 11/6) was changed to the UX-3 (2 15/16), but these are the units listed as correct for the Senior Six application.
Decades ago, when we acquired the remains of Stromberg including the remaining factory inventory, we submitted a sample of that pot metal to a metalurgist, who suggested the failure was due to an excessive amount of lead in the early zinc alloy. Not just carburetors: door handles, distributor bases, all of it up to the early 1930's had problems.
Before you convert to the downdraft carb:
The BB-1 carburetor has TWO idle tubes, one quite obvious, and the other hidden in the lower casting. Most idle issues with the BB-1 (assuming the correct carburetor) are caused by failure to remove the hidden idle tube and blowing out the passage. Try that before doing the conversion.
And I would suggest looking for the larger Senior Six manifold, so a larger carb could be installed.
EDIT: more information. The TX-2 used by the Senior Six had a venturi of 1 3/32 inch; and it was replaced by the UX-3 with a venturi of 1 1/8 inch. The BB1A and BB1D both have a 1 inch venturi. So the TX-2 is 20 percent larger than the BB1A/D and the UX-3 is 27 percent larger in venturii area.
Jon
I purchased a BB1 carb and believe it to be a much later version than the original 1929 one. It never would work on my 1929 DA6. I had the original Steward carb rebuilt and it runs great.
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On 1/14/2024 at 1:15 PM, trimacar said:
For small parts, you can buy a chrome marker at Hobby Lobby, I use a thin end one to touch up bumpers on Aurora Tjet slot cars, but they make a wider one which could do small jobs like dash bezels and such on early cars.
Do you have Item description for the chrome maker at hobby lobby? A picture would be great. Thanks for information.
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I see the many chrome plating shops closing down. I believe the environmental concerns of the chemicals would be the main reason.
I was wondering if the plating of plastic had the same concerns.
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I believe that only Cadillac had a flathead v8.
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Curious on how plastic is Crome plated. The process was used on the model car kits of the 50’s and now it is used extensively in the automotive industry.
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13 minutes ago, Darryl Cutter said:It's time for a rebuild for my '28 Dodge Brothers Suburban with a six cylinder. I'll pull the motor but I'm not going to do the rebuild. I live in Massachusetts and I'm looking for suggestions on a good shop to take it to in the Northeast.
New York, Pennsylvania, etc. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I got a couple of ballpark quotes with one being pretty expensive at 12K.
Thanks in advance.
Darryl Cutter
I feel fortunate. My DA six cost 8K to do complete rebuild which Included Babbit bearings new pistons and valves. I am in Northern California and had a shop near Auburn CA do my work.
You have a unique vehicle. Could you post some pictures for your fellow Dodge Bros collectors.
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Just now, stakeside said:
Found this Graham/Dodge Bros truck on Graham web site ad it has title. For a asking price of $1000 would at least be a great parts truck.Web site: https://www.grahamownersclub.com/cars-for-sale.html
Add photo. Even still has bass tag on the windshield header.
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Found this Graham/Dodge Bros truck on Graham web site ad it has title. For a asking price of $1000 would at least be a great parts truck.Web site: https://www.grahamownersclub.com/cars-for-sale.html
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How hard is it to get parts for a Dodge Victory Six?
in General Discussion
Posted
Got any pictures of the engine. Curious if it is a DA6 engine. A complete engine rebuild can be quite expensive depending on the condition of the block. My DA6 block was in very bad shape. My complete rebuild engine cost $8000.
I was fortunate to have the Steward carb. A great carb.