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Posts posted by ckowner
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Hi Tom
Thanks for the pictures. Are any of those parts for sale? or are they some of your file pictures?
regards
Rick
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Not looking anymore. Got creative. See my posting under my restorations.
Thanks
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I am in the process of having some leather handles made for the steamer car trunk so that is can actually be carried when removed from the car. Then it will have to be disassembled and painted. I will share pictures when completed. In the mean time I am still in need of on wheel clamp as shown. Part# 72009. I will see if a reproduction can be machine or cast, since I do have one to copy
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These are the finished products. I installed some heat shrink tubing over the bare metal parts, and put thread locker on the threads that were intended to not come apart. The old fastening rivets in the cast were drilled out, and since the hole were too big to thread to !/4" , I cut the heads off of 1/4" stainless bolts and epoxied the studs in the hole for mounting. I hope the purist approve of my solution, but I could not think of another practical solution
Enjoy!
Rick VanOene
1930 DeSoto CK6 rumble seat coupe (Canadian)
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I waited for some time to see if there would be any replies for the pieces or pictures of pieces required to make these complete working locks. There have been no responses, so I put my imagination to work. Since the actual locking was not a required issue, this was my answer to the problem. Since the hole in the opposite side of the fender well was not a straight line with the holes in the lock, the pin had to be bent or flexible. After much searching, I found a 3/8 flexible socket drive. I drilled out the 3/8 square drive end and tapped it with a 1/2" NF tap. Inserted a brass threaded reducer into the lock casting and drilled and tapped a 1/2" solid brass plug with the 1/2" NF tap as well. After a day with minimal tools and some searching and imagination, this was the result. Pictures coming. My files are too big!
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Not looking anymore. Got creative with another solution. Check my restorations for pictures
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I am trying to add the missing side mount locks to my 1930 DeSoto coupe front fenders. I have the casting that mount on the fender and after much effort I did manage to separate every thing. I need help or suggestion as to what the locking pin/ cylinder looks like, and maybe a suggestion on fabricating something that would work like the original. Here are before and after pictures. The hole size is one inch. Any help is appreciated! Of course if someone has a couple of the locking pins laying around in an old parts box, that would be the best.
Rick
1930 DeSoto CK6 Coupe
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A new challenge to work on. Mounting the trunk so it can be removed easily. I had a friend machine 4 pieces of aluminum to fit the corners of the luggage rack. I threaded the sides to use the existing holes so that drilling new holes in the luggage rack would not be necessary. After lining up the trunk, the holes were then drilled up through the bottom of the trunk. I fabricated threaded knobs and inserted spur nuts in the bottom of the trunk. Bingo!
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The fuse size on a 1930 DeSoto is 30Amp. It is mounted on the back of the ammeter. This fuse is meant to protect (or not protect!) all the wiring in the car.
The fuse holder connection is fastened with a rivet connection to the back of the ammeter. Over time this connection starts to fail and heat up under load.
I have replaced mine with a modern fuse, as well as a proper fuse panel to protect the different circuits in the car. (ignition, gas gauge, dome light, horn, lights etc)
I also installed a second tail/brake light and installed a signal light flasher.
The flasher signals the rear brake lights, and by using 6 volt relays I was able to use the single filament front fender lights for parking lights as well as signal lights.
Electrical systems were of poor quality and design in the early automotive years. The original DeSoto book does not talk of wire sizes, only "small braid, medium braid and large braid"
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I tried a modern equivalent once. The spline and the size of the clutch plate can be matched up, but the springs will hit the flywheel bolts
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Looking at the date of the last post, It has more than a year and a half. Some how these projects just keep going. Almost a year ago I was contacted by someone looking for some parts. As a result of the conversation I ended up with an actual DeSoto luggage trunk that had been stored in his basement for 40 years.After shipping it from Ontario to the west coast, I dismantled and had a body man bring the metal to its original shape and contour. It appears that the corner of the trunk suffered some collision damage.
The aluminum moldings which were crimped over steel strips to resemble the old belting were removed and I replaced them by gluing polished stainless straps in their place with epoxy. I got the old locks unfrozen and working again. Even found a key that worked.:)
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I have a steering box out of a 1931 Chrysler CM. It is missing the main shaft with the worm gear, but if the rest of it can help you out let me know.
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Hi Jimmy
If that is the same as the 1930 DeSoto, that bottom eye bolt bolts through the hole in the axle to the left of your pointing finger on the picture.
Rick
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I am interested in two of the spare tire clamps. Two of the six across the middle. You can send me a PM with price and shipping to Surrey, BC, Canada. I have a 1930 DeSoto CK coupe, so the should be the right ones. Maybe a side view with a measurement would be great just to confirm. Thank you
Rick
1930 DeSoto CK6 Coupe
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
I am in the process of having a new clamp cast. Should be ready in about 2 weeks. As for the locks and cylinders, I will stick with what I have for now. The only hope of getting a replacement lock/pin, would be if some would show up in an old automotive warehouse parts cache. Thanks for your help.