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Loren@65GS.com

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Posts posted by Loren@65GS.com

  1. That's the person I recalled having some for sale. I didn't recall the astronomical asking price though.

     In case your friend isn't aware, '64-'67 is the same glass. But there were clear and tinted made. Another issue is that the glass does start to de-laminate, causing a white look around the edge that resembles a water stain. 

     

      Good luck with the hunt,

      Loren@65GS.com

  2. Extremely hard glass to find. I recall some for sale a while back. Don't know if it is still available.

    His name is Brian G. and goes by 197064buickspec on the v8Buick forum. You might want to check with him to see if he still has it.

     

     Also, there was an effort to reproduce the glass by someone in Europe. It was on one of the Buick Facebook pages. I don't recall if it got off the ground or not.

     

    Good luck with the hunt.

    Loren@65GS.com

    • Like 1
  3. That former ROA member that did the re-casting was Carmen Faso. 

    Also, the original covers were cast by Winters Foundry. Looking at the pictures with the Part Number on the inside of the covers and looking to the right, notice the foundry mark. That is the original Winters Foundry casting. The re-casted covers do not have the foundry mark in them. 

     

     Just a little information I thought that might help for identification.

     

      Loreen@65GS.com 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  4. Not sure if this is the right place for this.

    Just a heads up that CARS Inc. will be attending the meet in Strongsville. If you are interested in placing an order ahead of time, it can be delivered to the meet and save the shipping cost. 

     

     Loren@65GS.com

    • Like 3
  5. On 1/20/2024 at 3:10 PM, B Jake Moran said:

    Roger

     

    please note the threads you are responding to are years old.   

    It's been a while since Mr. Farrington has been online here. Last date of being on the forum was May 2, 2022.

     I love the body style of the sedanette. Loren@65GS.com

  6. In your first post, you stated that the horn relay clicked. That would be a sign that the relay is good. The relay doesn't "step down" the voltage. In fact, it should allow full battery or charging voltage, less tenths of a volt, pass through the relay from the attached battery cable on the terminal at the bottom of the relay to the green wire terminal. The black wire terminal as you are referring to, is a ground that activates the relay. That black wire goes up to the horn bar. When the horn bar is pushed, the relay is grounded and activated. 

     As been previously stated in another reply, simply check for power at the wire connection at the horn. I like to use a test light rather than a volt/ohm meter when tracking down a problem. If you have power at the horn connection when you press the horn bar, the circuit is fine. Now you have either bad ground at the horn or somewhere in the sheet metal. Or the horns themselves are bad. And as previously stated, the horns can be tested by adding 12 volts to the terminal and grounding the body of the horn. It should sound. If it doesn't sound, the horn is bad. The horn is simply a vibrating electro-magnet. The internals can corrode, and then it can't vibrate. 

     

     Best of luck with finding your solution,

     Loren@65GS.com

  7. 17 hours ago, RivNut said:

    I’m aware of that, but who else does seat belt restorations?

     

    I have four nice 1964 Brownline buckles, and I can find anchors, so who does rewebbing that is certified?

    A quick internet search showed a couple of others, Python Restoration and Seatbelt Planet. There may be others as well.

     I have done my own but am not certified. It requires an industrial sewing machine using the correct thread weight and stitch pattern. This is something that you can't do with a home sewing machine. 

     

      Loren@65GS.com 

  8. The engine codes are on the block at the front of the valley pan right behind the crossover pipe that has the thermostat. On horizontal surface on the passenger side is the engine code. Should be three numbers and two letters. The letters are the engine code. Could be "LT", "LW" or "LX". The "LT" is a 401. The "LW" is a 425 with single four carb. The "X" is a 425 with dual quad. 

     On the driver side of the same surface is the VIN number which would match the cars VIN, if engine is original.

     

     Loren@65GS.com

  9. 4 hours ago, RivNut said:

    Ssnake-Oyl is the seat belt restoration company.

    Be prepared for the cost with Snake-Oyl. 

     

    14 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

    What's the best way to polish out fine scratches from chromed seat belt buckles? 

     

    Here's a pic of one of the seat belt buckles in my '65:

    image.png.18e333f7ff4021ee3af121d75c5d1f9d.png

     

    What polish and technique should I use to remove those fine scratches?

     

    Are these buckles made of stainless steel?  Or are they chromed (regular) steel? 

     

    Does anyone sell reproduction red Fisher Body carriage emblems that go on the latch portion of the buckle?

     

    Thanks for your tips and suggestions!

    If careful, could be buffed out. They are plated steel. New correct webbing is available, but the buckle needs to be disassembled to replace it. 

     New red carriage emblems are also available. I've gotten them from The Parts Place. OPGI may also have them since both are now owned by the same company. 

     

     Loren@65GS.com

    • Like 1
  10. 17 hours ago, RivNut said:

    Guess I’ll have to deal with press on radio knobs.  

    I installed an aftermarket stereo in my then new '83 full size Blazer. I wanted it to look factory by using the original knobs. I modified the shafts of the aftermarket radio by filing them to fit the original knobs. 

     Worked out quite well.

     

      Loren@65GS.com

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, Turbinator said:

    I bought it. I have some holes to cut, but not for air filters. Looks like a good design and well made. Probably not as good as the the tried and true string with a pencil on one end and center point on the other for the radius.

    Turbinator

     I've used one of those tools many, many times while installing duct work for heating and air conditioning. Be careful on the hole adjustment to get a correct size. Also need to be cautious as you finish the last 2-3 inches of the cut as it is easy to make the hole out of round because you are pivoting on a center point that is slowly going to move. Practice makes perfect. 

     

     

      Loren@65GS.com

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