copperjohn
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Posts posted by copperjohn
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Does anyone know if there is a shop that re-finishes a horn button to look like new again?
Thanks
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Thanks Tom, I sent it to the wiper man yesterday.
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I'm actually looking for the replacement electric motor like the 12 volt ones they are manufacturing for a '36 Buick but in a 6 volt.
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Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a 6 volt wiper motor. I've only found 12 volt motors so far.
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Is there such a thing as heavy clear tape or an adhesive plastic to put on the outer edge of the running board to prevent scuffing of the paint where the rubber leaves off. New paint job and I know it's going to get scratched if I don't protect them..
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There's no way to lube it so I'm wondering if it has oil lite bearings or sealed ball bearings.
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Is it nessesary to use a water pump lube in the old '36 century straight eight engines along with rust inhibitors?
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This may sound like a simple fix but I can't get the lens off the dome light to replace the bulb. Can anyone help a poor soul? My mistake, it's a '36 Century 4 dr.
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Does anyone know what the vacuum measurement should be to run the wiper motor. The car is a '36 Century with the duel action fuel pump. I bought a NOS wiper motor and it will turn one direction but will not the other. I'm wondering if it's the motor or not enough vacuum. I hooked the new tubing directly to the metal tube coming off the fuel pump and to the NOS wiper motor. The fuel pump is a recent rebuild from Kanter.
Thanks for any input.
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Does the engine breather on the drivers side on a '36 Century need to be cleaned periodically? If so what is the best way, gasoline?
Thanks for any help.
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This is the round welting that starts out at the bottom side of the front seat and continues up and across the top of the seat back and down the other side. I hope that's a little clearer.
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I need to replace the windlace around the top edge of the front seat on my '36 Century. Is this something that should be left to a professional or is it not too difficult? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
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I need some input on oil for the old straight 8. Which company is reccomended as having the best quality engine oil with zink and which weight is better for mostly summer driving.
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Does anyone out there know why Buick put the door lock on the passenger side and not the drivers side? My wife wants to know.
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Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a portable starter/charger for the 6volt system. I had an experience with a dead battery from forgetting my fog lights were on. I can only find 12volt units. Could a 12volt unit be used for a quick start without doing any damage. Thanks for any help.
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Is it recommended to use sea foam or mystery oil in tha old straight 8's? What about the lead additives?
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Firstborn was right, it was the pickup tube in the gas tank. Dirt or whatever was restricting the flow. Runs like a true old Buick should. Thanks to you all.
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Thanks to all of you. I've tried what I can and now will take it in and hope they can find the problem. If they do find the problem I'll post it just in case it may happen to some one else and they won't have to go through this headache.
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I just ran the car in the garage and was watching the glass bowl at the fuel pump and noticed air bubbles coming in the bowl, I switched on the electric fuel pump and they stopped. Why would air get in the line? This stuff can drive a person to drink.
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There is wetness under the float area. It looks to be coming from the screws for the jets.
The engine will re-start after 5-10 minutes but will buck and backfire through the carb.
I've replaced everything I can think of including the coil, and the condenser again, the fuel pump and today put on a re-built carb that seemed to work good in the garage but 6 blocks from home the car did the same thing. It wasn't even hot yet. The other day I let it idle in the garage to the point it boiled over. I shut it off and it re-started right up. No vapor lock. That was after I put on the new coil thinking maybe that was the problem. I took it out and went about a mile and a half and it acted up again. If I pump the gas when it starts to fail it tries to run but will backfire and jerk and finally stall. Very frustrating, the car ran well last year.
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Thanks, I'll stick with the original setup.
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I'm thinking about having my old Buick converted to electronic ignition. Is this a good or a bad idea. Any help is welcomed.
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I have a '36 Century that is doing the same thing. Last year it ran fine. I took it in for a tune-up plugs, points , cap, condenser and rotor. since then it had problems. I figured it had to be fuel becaue the ignition parts were replaced. I've replaced the electric fuel pump, the cars fuel pump and the fuel filter with no luck. I had them put back in the ignition parts that were taken out because it worked with them before, thinking maybe one of the parts were bad. No luck. I'm going to have the coil replaced and hope that works. Next a rebuilt carb. It will run fine for 2-3 miles and act like it's running out of gas and after sitting for 5-10 minutes will start and run for another 1-2 miles and repeat. Frustrating to say the least.
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'36 Century starts and runs fine for a few miles and dies. I've installed a new rotory electric fuel pump, a rebuilt fuel pump thinking that was the problem but to no avail. This started after taking it in for a tune up. The cap, rotor, condenser and points were replaced. Also the spark plugs.
This started on the way home from the repair shop. Looking back I'm wondering if there is something that was replaced in the distributor that could cause this. I felt the fuel pumps were just getting old and needed to be replaced but now I'm thinking it could be electrical getting hot. I live in Arkansas and it's HOT!
1936 Buick Century brake shoes
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Does anyone know if there is a place to get shoes for a '36 Century?