[Brush Identification - Please help]

Awesome response! Thank you for all the information. I honestly didn't think I'd get a response today, as it's Thanksgiving. I'm sure I'll be posting more on this site and will have many questions as I move forward with this vehicle. It obviously has some brass plated parts to go with the "real" brass, and I've begun polishing and cleaning her up. By the way - your engine is Beautiful! I can see the carburator difference. Not sure about other differences just yet. I don't know if I'll paint the radiator black, I kind of like it the way it is. Not knowing anything about these cars, when I saw this come up for sale and just had to buy it. I've been bugging my wife to let me buy a one or two cylinder car for a long time and she whole-heartly agreed on this one. It's just so Cute! (if it's OK for a guy to say that!) It's got some weak clutches for low and reverse and I'm sure some other minor issues, but have driven it up and down the street a few times and can't stop smiling and laughing the whole way! So much fun!

Happy Thanksgiving! We're heading out for the day. Will check this post this evening. I'd love to find out as more about the Brush and have already reviewed the brush website, (http://www.brushauto.net) but would like contacts as well. Again, thank you!

Thank you,

Dave

[Brush Identification - Please help]

Hi Scott, The seat back is wood, and I stuck a magnet to the bottom of the crankcase and it stuck, so would guess it's cast iron. Everything seems to point to this being a 1912, so unless I others chime in, I'll go with that answer. Again, thank you for your help!

Dave

[Brush Identification - Please help]

Hi Scott,

Thank you for your quick reply. I've attached a few more pictures of the Engine and Radiator. I was told the Radiator is original. It has a few leaks, but I was warned against fixing them, as it could get costly, or if the radiator gets plugged - very costly! I don't know if it was ever painted black, but certainly has no paint on it now. Other pics show the engine, etc. I know it had a crank repair at some point.

Again, what should the title read? Model E (he could have written F on the bill of sell (hard to tell), or Liberty? Guess I can call some people I found in the Horseless Carriage Club directory.

One more note - it leaks, as all old cars do. What type of oil do you use for the transmission and rear end? For the engine, I'll use 30wt non-detergent oil, as I use in another car I own (not a Brush).

Thank you,

Dave

[Brush Identification - Please help]

Please help! I purchased this Brush two weeks ago and need help identifying the year and model. It's titled as a 1907 Brush Roadster, but the prior owner wrote Model E on the bill of sale, but also stated it's a 1912 Liberty model. I have the Motor Vehicle Department coming out to my house for a Level 2 inspection tomorrow (Nov 29, 2013) and I'd like to know before they arrive if possible. I've copied a part of a letter the prior owner received from the Tech Director of the Brush Club of America, who I was unable to locate for comment (I edited the letter to remove names). The letter states this is a Brush Liberty Model. The engine number is on the left side and marked 21632. There is a tag on the body with the number 2475, but this may have been an inventory number. The rear light and the oiler are not correct (I have the original oiler - if that's the correct term). I've looked at many pictures of these cars, including those in the Automobile Quarterly, Third Quarter 1986, but am still confused. Is this truly a 1912 Liberty? If so, should the title identify it as a Liberty, or a Roadster model (or even an E or F Model)? The letter also states the Liberty had the four separate fenders and the cheaper lights. I found pictures of a 1907 and also a 1911, showing them with the four separate fenders. Perhaps the pictures were identified incorrectly(?) Separate fenders = 1912?

I appreciate any feedback.

Thank you,

Dave

[Studebaker Light Six King Pins and Bushings]

Thanks for your reply and the reference to the McMastar Carr bushings. I didn't want to jump in until I had researched this bit. I'll see how worn the king pins are worn when I pull them and will check with local club members to see about building them up and turning them. I watched an online video last night on replacing king pins and it doesn't look that difficult, so will hope for the best when I start this project.

Again, thanks for your reply.

Dave

[Studebaker Light Six King Pins and Bushings]

Hi,

I wanted to inquire as to what others have done about worn king pins and bushings on a Light Six Studebaker. I've never had a vehicle with king pins prior to owning my 1924 EM, so I have no experience on repairs or replacement of these parts. With the wheels off, I can measure a good amount of movement in the pins and believe they're shot. I'd be greatful for advice on how to obtain replacement parts, or if parts from other cars are interchangeable. The rest of the steering components are badly worn as well, and the car shakes pretty badly when traveling above 35 mph. If someone knows what parts I can use, or can give advice on making/obtaining new ones, I'd appreciate your reply.

Thank you,

Dave

[Light Six Oil Level]

I've had my 1924 Light Six for three years now, so I'm embarrassed to ask at this point, but have a question about filling the oil. The owner's manual and the service manual both note that it takes one and a half gallons to fill. The owner's manual is very clear on checking the level. There are three groves on the rod, indicating the empty, half full and full. It says do not carry the oil below the half full or above the full position. I always fill it to the top line, which I believe is "full", and add as necessary to keep it at that level. However, this only takes five quarts, not six. Am I reading the rod wrong? Should I be adding the sixth quart anyway, filling it above the top grove?

Thanks,

Dave

[Seeking 1924 Light Six Parts Manual]

Hi to Everyone and Thank You for your replies. I did as noted above and was able to pull the assembly apart. The grease cap was full when I bought the car and I keep adding more and screwing it down a few turns, but I was embarassed to find that the cavity was almost completely dry! Who knows how long it's been that way. Certainly a lot longer than I've owned the car. I assumed that it was full, given the grease in the cap. It was also obvious that the housing that holds the fan assembly has been repaired (where it tightens down). I wonder if it was never filled when that repair was done? Well, it's greased now and quiet at the moment, If I find it's still bad, I may take Scott up on the offer of the servicable shaft. (thank you for the offer)!!

In the mean time, someone from the Studebaker Museum replied to my email and is looking for a copy of the parts manual. I'll see if he has one. If not, I'll reply back, or call Old World Press, as suggested by Robert.

Again, thanks to all the replies and great information!

Dave

[Seeking 1924 Light Six Parts Manual]

Hi and thanks for the replies. I have the reproduction service manual, but it doesn't give the parts breakdown I'd like to see when working on my car. At present, I need to to repair / replace the fan bearings. I've kept it greased but am now getting metal on metal "screetching" running down the road. I took the fan off the car in a matter of minutes, but the repair manual isn't very clear about how to pull it apart. Even so, I need to know what parts I need to repair it. There was no warning that there was a problem until it started making the noise. Spraying WD40 around the shaft (on the pulley side, away from the fan) helped, but it was short lived. Again, the grease cup was full. I'm not too mechanical, but believe whatever seals the end of the shaft must be worn.

This isn't the first time I've wanted a parts manual though. Wish I could find one. I called the Studebaker Museum in Southbend today and left a message. I also tried the Horseless Carriage Club's' Research Library, but the gentleman didn't have a reference for one. It's not critical, but as long as I have this car, it sure would be nice to have a good parts breakdown.

Thanks,

Dave

[Seeking 1924 Light Six Parts Manual]

Hi, I've been unable to find a parts manual for my 1924 Light Six. This was a popular car, so I'm sure there has to be one available. Does anybody have one they're willing to part with or know where I might purchase one? A PDF copy would be great as well. Does not have to be original.

Thanks,

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi Everyone,

I thought I'd note a correction to George's phone number - Area code 308 (NOT 303).

George McMurtry from Bayard, Ne.

1605 West 16th Street 69334

308-586-1930

gmcmurtry@embarqmail.com

A friend of mine bought a wheel puller from George for his 1923 Light Six and it works beautifully!

Thanks!

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi Scott, I appreciate the information, pictures, and the thumbs up on your coworker's nice work. It's great to know I can have one made! I need to note that in the last few days, I found a Studebaker Club member who lives locally and has a "blank" that he says just needs to have the threads cut on it and it should be good. He's offering it to me at a price I can't resist, and says it just needs the threads cut. (says it's 16 threads/inch). I'll have to find a machine shop to do the work, but may be set. If it doesn't work, I'll be in contact. I really like the "cinch" added to the puller you have.

Thanks again for yours and all the others who have replied!

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi Robert,

Wow, decision, decisions! That sounds like a very reasonable price to have one made. If you have a picture, yes, please privide one. Of course, it would be great if it looked like the factory original, but doesn't matter. I just need to be able to pull the wheels off when needed and not rely on others. Right now, I need to tighten the wood wheels. I put new brakes on a few months ago and intended to take care of this at that time, but once they were back on the car, it was too late. Can't get them back off. The car stops great now, but the clacking sound has gotten worse.

Thanks to everyone for your interest and help.

Thanks,

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi Scott,

Thank you! I'll gladly accept your offer, but will take a quick measurement to be sure it's the same size and not that of the Commander. I'll contact you via email in the next few days. I really appreciate your kind offer. I have some friends in the Antique Studebaker Club and also in the Horseless Carriage Club who might be able to create a new one for me, once they can see this.

Stude8 - thank you for your reply as well! It's good to know there are others who are always willing to help!

Sincerely,

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi, This is a good read, with lots of information. I'll see if I can find one first, but I may have to consider making one as an option.

Thank you!

Dave

[Looking for Rear Wheel Puller for a Light Six]

Hi,

I'm looking for a rear wheel puller for my 1924 Light Six. I was able to borrow one a while back when I did the brakes, but the person I borrowed from does not live near me and it would be difficult to borrow again. I really need to find one for myself if possible. Would anyone know where I might be able to locate one for purchase?

Thanks,

Dave

PS: This is for the same car in which I had to repair the valve rocker roller. She's been sweet and I've driven her a good 250 miles since the repair.

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Great News! She's running again! Thanks to everyone who provided guidance as I worked through this problem. As said, I don't have a lot of mechanical experience, but learned a lot from working through this - much more than if I had taken it to a garage and paid someone else to do the work. It cost a lot of time, but am proud to say that it was very easy on the wallet. I also came away with some knowledge of the internal workings of the engine.

Per my prior posting, I didn't have to pull the head, but just disassembled the rocker arm assembly and slid the parts off until I got to the culprit. A good machinist filed the burs on the rocker arm, put the roller and the pin back in place, peened the pin and blessed it, with the promise it'll last as long as the rest of the engine has life. He was very pleased with the condition of the parts (maybe I overstated their condition) and when he was done, I couldn't tell the bad one from good one (except for the peening). Putting the rocker arm assembly back on the engine was a bit of a challenge, but taking a few thousandths off the edges of the rocker arm bracket allowed enough clearance to the valve springs and it slipped right into place.

I put everything back together with the help of some friends, and she started on the first try. Smooth as silk... We had also readjusted all the lifters, so she's much quieter. Runs and sounds wonderful...

Thanks Everyone!

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi All,

I struggled with the decision to removed the head so that I could remove the the entire rocker assembly. Realizing the enormous task (well, for me), I decided to do this in another manner. I was able to get one of the two rocker brackets off the stud. Getting the assembly at an angle, I was then was able to remove the cotter pin holding it together, then slid the rocker arms off the shaft one at a time until I got the bad one. Yeah! Putting the whole thing back on the stud could prove a problem later on, but for now, I’m happy. I also found the pin in the oil pan, and it looks fine. The roller, upon closer examination has a slight flat spot, nothing bad, but I’d prefer to replace it if possible. The rocker arm, however, had a big chunk taken out of it when the cam came around, creating a notch in the metal below where the roller sits. This wouldn't affect the movement of a new roller, and the rocker is still very usable, but all in all, I’d like to find a complete rocker, roller, and pin from another Light Six if possible. The cam looks good, but has a very slight nick on the edge of the lobe on one side and there’s a bur at that location that I’ll file down, very carefully.

It was immediately apparent upon examination of the rocker arm that this was a factory defect that took 86 years to present itself. Each rocker has 4 spots on each side where it’s peened to hold the pin in place. The bad one only had 2, as it was off center, and the other 2 would have been where the pin is located. I took everything to a good machinist but he suggested that I look for a used rocker with a roller still in good condition, at least until I need to replace all of the rollers.

Over time, the pin had worn the hole in the rocker and it’s not a tight fit anymore. I know we can use a larger pin, but I’d just as soon get another rocker if I can find one. Folks who have helped me in the past don’t have one, so I’m making calls and hoping for the best. I’ll open another thread in this forum if I don’t get a response to this request.

If anyone knows where I can buy a rocker assembly for a 1924 Light Six, I’d be grateful.

Thanks!<O:p</O:p

Dave<O:p</O:p

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Guys,

Thanks again for the advice. I fear if I try to put the rockers back on the car, snug down the nuts and cut the studs off, I'll just create another mess. Yes, the studs do protrude out further than the nuts did, so, these do differ from the illustration, but getting a dremel tool back in there next to the valve springs would worry me to death.

I'll try to locate an overhead valve spring compressor and dig in after I get the head gasket. Although this is supposedly a somewhat easy job, I'll be taking my time. To take the manifold off I need to first remove the vacuum for the fuel system, etc. This is all bigger than I was hoping for, which is why I wanted to avoid pulling the head, but I think this is the right thing to do.

I'll update this in a few weeks or so to let you know how it turned out, but will continue to monitor this thread to see if other advice is given.

Again, thanks,

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Terry,

Well, it comes to this - I was finally able to break the rocker arm supports free from the block. The lock washers were put on so tight that they left an impression in the metal, giving the impression (from a distance) that there was a helicoil. Not so. Again, I was able to break them free, but I'm back to the fact that the studs are just a bit too long. There's just no room between the rockers and the valve springs. The head's coming off...

I'm ording a head gasket, getting a valve compressor, and will finally get on with this! I'm sure I'll have more questions, but for now, I'm set.

I appreciate all the advice and will update this post when the job's done in a few weeks.

Any chance you know what the torque settings are for the head bolts on the Light Six?

Thanks!

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Terry,

No, there was no gap at all between the nuts and the rocker arm supports, and the sleaves don't appear to be damaged. Also, the studs (or bolts) are such a tight fit, which is why it looks like they're actually threaded into the sleaves, (or helicoils). I'm also starting to question whether or not the rockers can really be removed without removing the valves, as the supports don't appear to have enough room to clear the springs, much the same as what I was facing to get a tool in there to remove the nuts. I need to slow down and not rush this. At this point, I'm going to have a friend from the Horseless Carriage Club come by and have a look. I need to slow down and be patient. In the mean time, I think I should order a head gasket and get ready.

Thanks again,

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your input. When I pulled the screen off the oil pan, I had taken a magnet and run at every angle I could to try to find that pin, but came up empty handed. I was going to pull the pan off, but was told it probably wouldn't hurt anything if it's sitting in there, but your words are food for thought. I'd hate for it to get kicked up and do some real damage down the road. I better see if I can locate it from the top side, or pull the pan so I can be sure what happened to it.

Terry, Scott, Anyone with experience -

Back to removing the rocker arms - it took some work, but I finally got the nuts and lock washers off. According to the manual, I should have been able to just remove the rockers at that point, but surprise, surprise! It won't budge. Try as I may, it won't even wiggle. I thought there should be some movement, even a little, but none. Now remember, I have no experience at this - but upon closer look, it appears that the threaded (studs/bolts?) that I removed the nuts and washers from have a sleave over them, between them and the rocker arm (brackets?), holding it to the block. Could it be it came that way from the factory? It's such a tight fit that I'd swear they really look like they're helicoils and those (studs, bolts) are threaded into them. But that makes no sense. The only way they could have been screwed into the block would be if they were double nutted and tightend down - Ok, now I'm rambling. But, as I stated earlier, there were no cotter pins, and no holes to put them in. Are they original? They look the same down the side of the engine for all of the rockers, so I'd guess this is Ok. The only reason I bring it up is in case someone's changed them over the years.

I can't figure out how to get the rockers off the car at this point. Does any of this make sense? There's no tension on any of the valves, as I've backed the adjusting screws off. The manual gives 1/2 hour to remove and replace the rockers. It can't be that hard.

Thanks again for your advice.

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Terry,

Thank you for the information. I purchased some crowsfoot wrenches and was able to get in there and loosen the nuts, but it's a tight fit and I'm going to have to work at this a while (more tomorrow night)! It's tough with the engine in the car, as I'm working around the steering collumn, moving the nut a fraction of a turn at a time, while hoping I don't lose the wrench off my the extension and down in the pan. I really appreciate your interest and advice! Hopefully, I'll have this off the car and to the repair shop this weekend.

Thanks again,

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

Hi Terry,

Thanks for your quick reply. I'll stop at a hardware store and purchase one of these and give it a shot. Someone also suggested that I take a socket and cut it down to the minimum depth needed. This might give me the clearance I'll need, but will take quite a bit more work (I'd have to use a hack saw or the like).

I'm not a mechanic, but can guess that held the pin holding the roller in place is a press fit, and perhaps a split pin (?). I would hope that a good machine shop should be able to help with this.

Do you know if this a common problem? It might be interesting to know why the pin fell out, other than the fact that the car is 87 years old. (The engine's got great compression on the other cylinders and ran strong until this happened).

Also, the manual said to remove the cotter pins and nuts. None of the nuts have cotter pins and I would guess that the nuts are torqued down. If that's the case, do you know what the torque specs might be when I put this back together?

Again, thanks for your reply!

Dave

[1924 Light Six Valve Rocker Arm Removal?]

I own a 1924 Light Six and need help or advice in removing the valve rocker arm assembly without pulling the head or valves. I have limited mechanical experience but am learning quickly. I purchased a repair manual and it states that the valve rocker arms can be removed and replace quickly, estimating a half hour. It states that I need Studebaker tool SD-62, to remove the nuts holding the assembly in place, which I would guess is extremely difficult to locate. I can’t get a socket on the nut in order to turn it, due the clearance to the valve springs, and turning a wrench on it would be difficult.

Does anyone have experience with this or own the special Studebaker tool?

Here’s a bit of history on the problem: The car developed a miss. I found I have no compression in cylinder No 6 and upon removing the valve cover, I found that one of the valve rocker arm rollers had fallen out. I removed the screen from the bottom of the oil pan and found the roller, still in very good shape, but have not yet located the pin that held the roller in place. If I can remove the rocker arm assembly as described in the repair manual, I should be able to have a good machine shop put the roller back in place or make a new one.

I’ve been told I’ll have to pull the head so I can remove the valves and then the valve rocker roller, but this seems pretty extreme, given the ease of repair described in the manual.

I appreciate any advice on this.

<O:p</O:pThank you,

Dave