in2antiques

I appreciate everyone's advice. I had several problems with the car. The ignition/light switch was draining the battery. Turning the lights on at any time would kill the ignition. I bypassed both of those with toggle switches and it now holds a charge and starts easily even with the lights on. I also purchased a condenser from Myers Dodge, and my restarting problems disappeared. We drove the car 50 miles on Saturday with no problems. At the end of our drive it stalled at an intersection. I couldn't believe when I wouldn't restart, but then found a broken wire under the dash (from the floor starter switch). Fixed, and on my way. The carburetor is running very rich and I believe it's stalled after flooding. One way or another the problem with not being able to start when hot has been fixed. Many thanks to all who posted on the site, Dave

Thank you! I don't see an easy way of removing it, but perhaps it'll be evident when I see the new one.

It appears my electrical problems may be resolved regarding the battery drainage. Toggle switches seemed to have worked. However, I'm left with the problem of a car not running. I suspected when it gets warm the condenser may be failing. Typically, after running it for 10 minutes or so and shutting it off, I can't start it for hours afterwards. I tried again this morning. It started with ease snd I let run 15 minutes, shut it off, waited five minutes, and haven't been on able to start it since. It'll fire but then immediately die. Remove the distributor cap, manually operated the points, and verified a fairly good spark from the coil, although I don't have a comparison for the size of spark. I'd like to change the condenser, but don't know how to remove it (see attached picture). I understand an exact replacement isn't available, so what does everyone use, and how would it be installed? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

Ok, so I've bypassed the ignition and light switches, and everything's now on toggle switches. Starts fine, lights work, but after running for about 10 minutes I turned it off, and unable to start again. It's got to be the carburetor or the coil. I've ordered new spark plug wires and a distributor cap nonetheless. Can't hurt. It's getting to be nice touring weather in Arizona, so am anxious to try look at new thing to figure it out. Will give it a go in another few days. Dave

Thanks again for the replies. The car is negative ground, with the horn on the door. I've not had the opportunity to check the rest of the suggestions and it may be the weekend again before I have the opportunity. Again, thanks.

Thanks for the addition replies. I'll keep working this, but am guessing I'll end up with toggle switches, as noted. Again, thanks for the advice.

Thanks. What impact would not having that grounded have on the charging system? The ammeter shows it was charging. I'm trying to figure an electrical issue. I had an older battery that wouldn't hold a charge. I replaced with a brand new one, and just to be sure, fully charged it two days ago. Took the car for a drive today and after only 4 miles, shut it off, and fortunately in front of my house. I was able to put a charger on it, and showed it was nearly dead. Wish I'd have checked the charge prior to my drive. I previously posted on this forum about a starting problem. In that post, I mentioned that moving the light switch while running the car sometimes will kill the car. Perhaps the switch is just bad. Hard to believe it could drain a battery that fast.

I've got a question about the installation of the starter generator on my 1921 Dodge Brothers. The heavy cable is hooked to the starter switch, but does the other contact need to be grounded? Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the suggestions. I left a message for the folks at Myers Dodge, and then spoke with the gentleman at ROMAR. Apparently this is an ongoing problem with these old switches, and they're hard to come by. I'll try to fix the switch, but may end up using toggle switches under the dash for my lights and/or ignition. Would be an easy solution if I can't fix or get parts. Again, thanks.

All, so I've finally had a chance to play with my '21 Roadster. I've not been able to fully verify why my car wouldn't start after running a short while, but have some ideas and findings. Based on the suggestion that fuel pressure to the carburetor is only gravity fed, I reduced the pressure from the fuel regulator from 2.5 to 1 psi and it's been running fine. The other suggestion was that most ignition problems are electrical and nature, so I replaced a very old and used battery with a new one. I found however that if my ignition key is not perfectly aligned in the ignition and lighting switch, the car won't run at all. Additionally, when I tried turning my headlights on, any movement of the lighting switch will to shut the car off as well. It seems the ignition switch is bad. I'd appreciate any leads on finding a new or replacement. Thanks in advance. Dave

Thanks for additional responses. It'll be next weekend before I can run it again. Am hoping it's something simple, as it's starting to drop below 100 in Phoenix, and we'll have good driving weather in a month.

Hi, and thank you for the replies I’ve received. I have little mechanical experience, so this is give me some starting points. I’ll reply when I figure it out.

Hi I'd like to ask assistance for an issue that's left me sitting few times. If I turn my 1921 Roadster off after running for more than about 10 minutes, it fails to start again. It'll crank till the cows come home, but won't fire. I initially thought possible vapor locking, as I live in the Phoenix Metro area and its been well over 100 degrees when I've driven it. I no longer believe this is the case per below. Basic stuff: fuel, spark, timing. Fuel: I have plenty of gas. The vacuum tank has been bypassed and fuel is being delivered to the carburetor via an electric fuel pump and variable regulator, which adjusts from 1 to 7 lbs. It's set at 2.5 Ibs. I disconnected the fuel line to the carb and it has a lot of pressure, perhaps too much for the Stewart carb? I have a good strong battery, and plenty of spark to the plugs. Timing must be good. Starts first time, every time when cold, but when slightly warmed up, if I shut it off, it could be hours before it starts again. Sounds like carburetor to me, but I have limited experience with fuel delivery issues. I also adjusted the regulator from 1 to 7 lbs, but with little luck. Any reason shutting off the car after such a short amount of time would not allow it to fire? Thank you, Dave

Thanks for the replies. I figured I could probably have one made, but also thought I'd have to provide an example for it to be done. If anyone has a picture I'd appreciate it, but will pursue obtaining one through these sites. Again, thanks! Dave

I was wondering if anyone might have a picture of the identification plate for 1921 Dodge Brothers Roadster, as the plate in mine is missing. Thank you, Dave

Hi RAH and thank you! Looks like I may have to pull the floor board up but will look in the other locations as well. Your assistance is greatly appreciated! Dave

Can someone tell me where I can physically find the serial number on a 1921 Dodge Brothers Roadster? Thanks, Dave

As for my engine failure, I was probably doing 35 to 40 miles an hour. The engine was revved a bit, and I was happy that it was driving so smoothly, as I'd just replaced the U joints behind the transmission I had some vibration and then the whole engine came apart. Thanks for any continued support I et on this site searching for an engine and components. I'll wait to buy the other components until I start with a good block or find a complete engine. Several people have recommended I put a newer six cylinder Studebaker engine under the hood from the 1940s or 50s. With a lot of work I guess it would work, but I'd really like to put a 1920s motor back in it. Again, thanks . Dave

Hi Scott, Thanks. I appreciate your reply. I'm going to give it some time, hoping for a good engine/drivetrain, but will keep your information. I've not torn it down yet, but believe the crankshaft broke, as I lost two pistons through the sides of the block, taking out the starter on one side, and the generator/distributor/water pump combination on the other. Unbelievable. I've had the car for a decade and rarely a problem. I was on my way home from a car show, where it's always a crowd favorite. Anyway, I need to start with a good block. If found, I may contact you for the rest. Again, thank you, Dave

Wanted: Engine for 1924 EM Light Six Coupe. Car was featured on the cover of the January - February 2011 Antique Studebaker Review. I've not yet torn it down, but lost two cylinders and the engine is not recoverable. I'm seeking a complete Light Six engine, including water pump, water pump distributor support bracket, Wagner S-509 starter, Wagner Type-S-462 Generator. I may be interested in a complete drivetrain. Please email me at: dave.recker4@gmail.com. Thanks, Dave

Hi Scott. I need two, but would take extras if they're just lying about. I really need a bolt and again, would take extras (sorry, I don't want to sound greedy). We've had this car for a decade and they'll probably have to bury me in it. ? Am always planning for the future. But seriously, if you had a few, I'd gladly work with you. You can email me privately at In2antiques@cox.net. Thanks! Dave

Hi Scott, thank you for your reply. Yes, there are three rag joints at each end of the driveshaft. I replaced the front ones some time back, as they were badly torn. The rubber on the new ones was so thick I can barely get the bolts through, and stripped one of them, as shown in the picture. I didn't realize the rubber would compress so much over time, which resulted in the loosening of the hardware. A broken cotter pin and lost nut allowed one bolts to come free and I lost two of those wave washers. I'm replacing the joints again due to wear, and looking to replace those washers and the stripped bolt. Was hoping to find some originals, but will look at reproduction. I appreciate your suggestion. I didn't know if standard hardware would be frowned upon, but again, am trying to stay orig. Touring season is right around the corner in the Phoenix area, and I've got to keep the old gal on the road. Thank you.

Some of the bolts used on the driveshaft "rag joints" are in bad shape on my 1924 Light Six. I purchased "rubber" replacement joints some time back but the bolts were in bad shape and a few of them were stripped. I'm looking for replacement/extra (wave?) bolts & washers as shown in the attached picture. I'd prefer to go with original parts if available but would like advice on finding new replacements. Bolts are 2 1/8 inches long (including the head). Shaft length is 1 3/4 inches. I'd prefer the bolts be a bit longer as the rubber joints seemed a bit thicker than the cloth joints previously installed. Thank you, Dave

Thanks! The rear light was added by the prior owner and is Ford (good eye). I wouldn't have known. I got it registered as a 1912 Liberty. Will check out the Brush club soon. Have been super busy over the holiday weekend. Thanks again!

Hi, and thanks for your comments. Yes, this is the model that was listed in AZ, and was about a two hour drive from where I live. I feel fortunate to have been able to get there quickly to make the purchase. I'm aware that the oil tank and drip sight glass are wrong, but do have the originals. I was told it leaked at the firewall, so they were swapped (temporarily). It does have a step plate on the passenger side only and appears to be original (I can add more pictures if you'd like). I was told that the car underwent a refurbishment about 40 years ago and the person who took the paint off the body didn't have the heart to paint over it again - and I agree - the wood's beautiful and is what drew me to this car. The hood is a bit rough, and I was told it had had some bondo. The prior owner stipped it off and must have then painted it the yellow color (which will have to change). I didn't know about the carb, as I'm not familiar with these vehicles. I also was not aware of the change in the crank handle, but am very pleased with it's operation. I've never had a car of this era, so it's all new to me anyway. It runs pretty well, but I need to trust it a bit more before driving it out of my neighborhood. I was also told that the lights are indeed the originals, but Brush had "cheapened" some of the material in the last year. See the attached letter. (again, I deleted details from the letter to remove names). There was also a paragraph about how to improve the clutch in that letter, which I'll share later. I didn't want to throw names around in an open forum. Not that I didn't believe that this was a 1912, but again, pictures I'd seen on the web confused me, and I just wanted to be sure. I question everything. I'm happy knowing this is a 1912 Liberty Brush and will go forward with the registration. Again, thanks to all who replied on this Thanksgiving Day! Dave