rick60
-
Posts
487 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by rick60
-
-
I was working at an Olds dealer in 1980. A transport driver arrived with a truck load of Toronados. The top row of cars were badly damaged. The front one lost it's roof. The second one was missing it's roof with major damage to the front of the vehicle. The last one was badly damaged in the front and rear. It had been knocked off the trailer. I talked to the driver. He stated that he deviated from his prescribed route to see his girlfriend. He encountered a low bridge at 30 mph. He said he would no longer be employed after this delivery. The cars were donated to a local junior college with an auto tech program. None of them were repairable.
-
Accelerate in first gear. leaving the car in gear remove your foot from the gas pedal and coast creating an engine braking condition. Listen for the noise. If the noise is more pronounced it is likely your wrist pins are worn or piston slap as mentioned above. Good luck.
-
The vacuum modulator and governor control shift points. It may be a temperature related problem with the governor that causes it to bind when warmed up. I had this problem after rebuilding the transmission in my Ford. I realize it is a different make and model but the same principles apply. I'm sure the GM guys at this site will have more specific information for your car. Good luck.
-
I was able to compare this car with other unrestored examples of the same model. It is correct for the base model.
-
Thanks for the information. I will continue to research the different models.
-
Thanks for the quick reply. The car is advertised as a Deluxe V-8.
-
I'm considering the purchase of a '50 Ford. I'm not familiar with these cars. I want to be sure the interior is factory original. Can anyone tell if this is the original factory design and material on the door panel? Thanks
-
SOLD! Thanks
-
Be sure the material is not between the top linkage as it folds. Pull the material out and roll it up. Tuck the rolled up material into the top well. This is how the convertible top manual for my '50 Pontiac instructed folding the top. It works well for any convertible. Good luck.
-
When I was working as an Oldsmobile mechanic back in the 80s the instructor related a story about the FBI and their Grand Nationals. The FBI complained that the engines were "shutting off" while in use. The cars were returned to GM for repair minus all of the special FBI equipment. The problem could not be duplicated. The cars were sent back to the FBI and the problems persisted. GM requested that the cars be sent for repair with all of the equipment installed. Apparently the FBI did not want the general public to know what was on the cars. The FBI relented and sent one car with the special equipment installed. GM discovered that the FBI radio was creating a very large magnetic field when the mic was keyed. The EMF would wash over the PCM and cause the car to stall. All of the cars received special shielding on the PCMs and related harnesses. The problem was corrected.
-
1
-
-
It looks as if there may be an intake valve not fully closing. The fluttering movement of the choke plate indicates compression getting past the intake valve. Be careful. You don't want to bend a push rod. The fluttering seemed to decrease as the engine warmed up. Good luck with the car. I look foreword to following your progress.
-
Two more pictures. The front bumper is pulled away from the body at the right front fender. It appears to have been damaged after contacting an object while backing up. The stainless trim on the right fender was probably damaged in the same incident. Note the vintage travel decals on the rear quarter glasses. There is also a vintage Alabama University decal on the back glass.
-
More pictures.
-
1950 Chevrolet two door sedan. Power Glide 58891 miles. Southern car with known history. Original sales receipt. This car is in original unrestored condition. The original sealed beams were on the car and functional when I acquired it. They are now safely stored away. The car has been mechanically sorted out. The engine oil pan has been dropped and all sludge cleaned. The oil pump was replaced at this time as a preventative measure. There were no oil pressure issues. The valve cover and side cover gaskets were also replaced. The rear main seal was also replaced. The valve seals were replaced. The heat riser has been repaired and is functional with a new spring. The cooling system was back flushed. The water pump appears to be original. It does not leak and is quiet. The thermostat was replaced. The radiator has been recored retaining the original date coded tank. The generator, starter and distributor have been serviced with new brushes and bearings where needed. The vacuum advance is new (NOS). The fuel pump has been replaced and the carb cleaned and adjusted.
All engine and transmission mounts have been replaced. The transmission was removed and resealed. The front pump seal and bushing were replaced as was the vacuum modulator. The car runs and drives very nice and tight. The brakes have been redone with new master cylinder and wheel cylinders. The front wheel bearings have been replaced. The tires are in good condition.
The interior shows wear on the driver's door panel. The seats have been covered since new with dealer installed covers. The dash is nice with wear that matches the rest of the car. The trunk compartment is in nice shape. The cardboard that covers the back seat has disappeared at some time in the car's history. The bumper jack is complete with the proper mounting hardware.
The paint is in poor condition. It is checking and coming off at several areas on the car. The body is very nice. The only rust perforation that I can find is a 3/4 inch crack over the right rear wheel. The floors including the trunk, spare tire well, inner and outer rockers fenders and doors have no rust. The bottom has surface rust only. There are areas of the frame that still have the original black paint. There are small "door dings" but no major dents. There is a small dent behind the rear license plate and a small dent on the left rear fender, just above the rear bumper. There is an interesting story relating the incident that caused these dents. Over all the body is in very nice condition. The chrome shines nice. There is some pitting on the top of the grille guard. The grille has minor scratches.
All of the lights function. The wiring harness is in good condition.
$6800 Price includes a NOS trunk handle,water pump rebuild kit, NOS horn ring (the one on the car is broken with a temporary repair) and NORS rear carpet
The car is located in Mt. Prospect IL, a suburb of Chicago. Please call or email for additional information. Rick (847) 398 8549 rln31455@yahoo.com
-
Contact Smartin in the Buick section of this forum.
-
You might want to considor having the rotating parts of your engine balanced. I had my 1960 352 balanced. My rebuilder said it wasn't necessary if I was not going to race it. I'm glad I did. It is smooth through all rpm ranges. It runs like an electric motor! Keep up the goog work. I'm enjoying your thread.
-
MG Auto Electric located in Arlington Heights Il does nice work. Not too bad of a drive in non rush hour traffic.
-
Has the heat riser been checked to see if it is working correctly?
-
The V-8 distributor has a flexible wire under the breaker plate. The insulation can become frayed and short to ground intermittently. This will cause loss of spark. I'm not sure the six has the same design but it's worth a look. The wire for the V-8 is reproduced. Good luck!
-
I'm not sure what you are willing to pay for a parts car. This car would be an excellent parts car and it's not too far from WI. I'm not sure if it is still available. Good luck with your ragtop.
http://forums.aaca.org/f137/1953-super-88-holiday-hardtop-needs-360492.html
-
If I owned this car I would search for NOS parts to replace the damaged areas of the grill. The texture of the chrome of NOS parts will be a close match and not look like it has been refinished. The paint over the rear wheel is not original. The area can be properly repaired with a closer color match. The pushed in fender may be able to be returned to its original shape without major body work. The floors can be repaired. The area can not be seen when the carpet is in place. I have lusted for this car the first time I saw it! The original condition is what makes this car special. I'm sure there are a lot of restored cars of this model and a lot of basket cases of this model. Your's is probably one of very few cars in this nice original condition. It is to your credit that you have not destroyed the originality of this car! I'm sure the car is in good hands. Preserve and enjoy it!
-
We used a product called "DRY LUBE" when I was working as a mechanic at Oldsmobile. It worked like silicone. It did not leave a film causing the windows to streak.
-
Be sure to disconnect the battery before working under the dashboard.
-
Rusty is correct. Your radio most likely needs a vibrator. It will probably also need an OZ 4 tube. The vibrator is a 6 volt, negative ground, 4 prong unit. Both are available on ebay. Shop for a good price. The radio consists of two components. The vibrator and OZ 4 are located in the unit behind the speaker assembly. Look under the dash. The OZ 4 is on the passenger side end. The vibrator is next to the OZ 4. They plug into the unit. Pull them straight out to remove. Be sure to disconnect your battery before doing any under dash electrical work.
I also saw your post on another forum regarding your door not opening from the outside. The most likely culprit is a small spring that is part of the door latch. When it breaks the latch remains in the locked position regardless of the position of the door lock button. You have to remove the door latch to replace the spring. The spring I'm talking about is the small one in the top row of the picture from an ebay auction. Again, shop around. I found a pair of just the small springs on ebay for $9.00 Good luck with your car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-Pontiac-Oldsmobile-Cadillac-Buick-Door-Lock-Latch-Springs-Set-49-50-/390759338897?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb125391&vxp=mtr
Seperate Sterring Gear for Sterring Column
in Ford, Edsel & Mercury - 1954 and Newer
Posted
The steering wheel must be removed with a specifically designed tool. A steering wheel puller is a common tool it the US. The steering column is attached to the steering gear box. The outer tube can be separated from the gear box. The tube can be slid off over the steering shaft. It can be difficult to remove and install because of the angle of the column. The steering gear can also be removed from the frame and the unit disassembled out of the car. If you don't already have one, I would recommend purchasing a service manual. The manual will provide instructions for steering wheel removal and all other repairs your car will require. They are available on eBay. Good luck with your project.