rick60
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Posts posted by rick60
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More photos.
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More photos
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This is a mostly original unrestored car. This car has never been taken apart and is a candidate for restoration or can be driven as is. The tires and exhaust are brand new. The top is new. The top cylinders window cylinders and seat cylinder are new. The hydraulic pump is also new. The power top, seat and windows all function. The brakes have been done with new wheel cylinders rebuilt master cylinder and new hoses. This car is virtually free of rust. The inner and outer rockers, passenger compartment floors, trunk floors and tail pan area have NO rust. The doors and trunk lid have no rust. The only rust I could find is located on the left fender extension between the door and rear fender. There is a small area of rust at the front, bottom of both rear fenders. Both fender skirts have a small area of rust by an internal bracket that allowed dirt to collect and retain moisture causing the rust. The car has what I would describe as "elderly driver" damage on both sides. There are dents on all four fenders. No major kinks, just flat spots. The paint does shine as the photos indicate but there is a lot of patina in the form of checking and primer showing through. The stainless moldings are in decent condition. There are only a few dings. All are repairable with the possible exception of the molding on the left fender extension between the rear fender and the door. The front bumper is a good candidate for re chrome. The rear bumper is pushed in at the center and will require straightening. The center three grille teeth are dented. They are stainless steel and can be straightened and polished. The interior is original with the exception of the front trim panels, kick panels and carpet. The seats were covered with plaid seat covers since new. They did their job! The plaid covers remain on the sun visors. The cloth portion of the seats is in unbelievable condition. The leather has some cracking. I've applied some Lexol conditioner and the leather remains flexible. All seams are nice. The seat springs and frames remain firm. The front trim panels are redone in the correct pattern but the color is slightly darker. The rear trim panels show some fading. I did not condition the rear trim panels with Lexol. They along with the front trim panels could be dyed to match the unfaded original leather. The steering wheel has a few cracks and some marks from the previous installation of a "neckers knob" but no missing portions. The glass is nice. The only delimitation is at the top of the leading edge of the drivers door glass. The head lights, park lights, stop lights, instrument panel lights, turn signals and horn all function. The wipers and radio do not work. This car was driven until 1970 when it was put into storage. It was stored until 2015. There is no rodent damage or objectionable odors from the lengthy storage. A NOS upper grille bar and right side wiper transmission are included with the car. The car is available for inspection. Please call or email for more details. $21,500
Rick (847) 398 8549 rln31455@yahoo.com 
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I'm assuming that the delete plate for a Deluxe is Painted. I've never actually seen one. If you know what belongs in a 1950 Deluxe please let me know. Thanks
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I'm looking for a clock delete plate for a 1950 Ford Deluxe. The instrument panel is painted light brown. The panel is unfaded original paint. I'm trying to locate a clock delete that will match the original paint in my car. Thanks. Rick 847 398 8549 rln314552yahoo.com
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PM sent
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I went back and looked at the pictures of the car that you started with. AMAZING progress! Keep up the good work!
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Thanks for all of the information. It is greatly appreciated.
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Does anyone know where cars destined for export were built? The car in question is a 1937 115c that was sold new in Australia. Thanks in advance.
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My neighbor's two small children were amazed looking at my Ford. They had never seen tires with "white on the side." They were thrilled to operate the manual windows, having grown up with power windows. Their dad couldn't believe I let them crawl all over the inside of the car. The little fingerprints wiped right off.
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Thanks for the information on the convertibles. I could not recall the exact details when actually production started. I have two service manual supplements for the convertible. One is for 1990 and one is for 1990-92. Does the Olds Club have a library? I would like to donate the manuals. If not I'll donate them to the AACA Library. Some of these cars are eligible to be registered as antiques as of 2015. I worked on these cars when they were new. I now qualify as an old man!
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I agree they would have looked better without the roll bars. The roll bar was a compromise because the door handle was in the B pillar.
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I believe initially the only convertibles available were pace cars. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. The body of the pace car convertible at the dealer where I worked actually twisted. There was about four inches height difference at the top of the windshield when measured at each A pillar to the ground. GM wisely recalled that particular car. The pace car generated a lot of showroom traffic and positive comments. Too bad they didn't do it right the first time. I agree, GM was poorly managed at the time. One of our early convertibles was returned for service so many times that it was bought back by the factory. Unbelievably someone made the decision to resell the car as a used car. As expected, the next owner had problems with the car. The owner found out about the history of the car and sued GM. I don't blame them. The employees at the dealership were shocked when the car was resold. Later production convertibles were better. Even those later production convertibles were the loosest feeling convertibles that I've ever driven. It really was a bad time for GM. Roger Smith and his bean counters really made my job unpleasant.
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I worked at Oldsmobile when these were recalled and destroyed. I remember thinking it was a shame to destroy such a nice car. We soon found out how problematic these cars would be. I still like them even with their inherent problems. Probably the worst case of cowl shake of any convertible I have ever driven!
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I remember reading letters to the editor in Hemmings Motor News when this Buick was a new car. The veteran hobbyists of that era were complaining that a 1950 Chevy was a used car!
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It is probably broken canceling springs. A common problem on GM cars. Tilt columns are not that difficult to work on. If you don't own a service manual you may be able to find instructions on line. The springs and canceling cam should be available from Olds parts suppliers and possibly Dorman Company at your local auto parts store. Good luck with your project.
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PM sent.
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If it is the same as later models the threaded hole visible in the lower photo is actually a pin that is removed with a special tool. There should be one on each side of the unit. After removing the pins the tilt handle is actuated and the bowl can be removed. The bowl is spring loaded. Care should be exercised during removal.
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Thanks for the information.
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The interior of this car has been reupholstered. The green paint on the dash, door tops and rear side metal appears to be older. Does anyone know if it is possible that this is original to the car? Would this indicate the color of the original color of the interior? Thanks.
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I'm sure MOPAR guys will be able to tell you the best way to remove the engine and transmission together. I would try removing the radiator and the core support (if possible). You will have to move the engine and transmission forward to allow the tail shaft of the transmission to clear the crossmember. You may have to change the able of the unit as you remove it Remember both units together will be heavy so be careful when using the engine hoist. It will take some trial and error but it should be possible. Be sure to get input from the MOPAR guys before you attempt this. I'm sure someone has been there before.
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Is the crossmember on this car removable? I had a 1950 Chevrolet. The transmission support crossmember was a welded part of the frame. It was a real pain to remove the transmission on that car!
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If the frame crossmember that supports the transmission is removable it is relatively easy to access the transmission to bell housing bolts. Support the engine, remove the crossmember, slightly lower the engine / transmission while still bolted together and disassemble the transmission from the engine. You can sometimes remove the engine while the transmission remains in the vehicle. It is much easier to line up the transmission input shaft if the transmission is installed after the engine is reinstalled rather than trying to install the input shaft while installing the engine. Good luck with your project.
1947 Buick Super Convertible 56c
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
More photos. The rocker panels are aftermarket add on units. There is no rust under them.
