DavidMc
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Posts posted by DavidMc
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To completely remove all rust, unless it is light surface rust, sandblasting or immersion in a rust removal chemical are the only fully effective methods.
Electrolysis also removes all rust but is not practical for a large part like a chassis. The paint on chemicals generally only treat the outer surface, some will completely remove the rust with repeated applications. Painting over treated surfaces then seals the area.
POR 15 type products seal better than more conventional paints.
Once a surface has had all loose rust removed and the remaining tightly bonded rust treated and well painted the rust is unlikely to be reactivated under good storage conditions.
One of the most economical and effective methods of complete rust removal for smaller parts is full immersion in molasses diluted 10-20 :1 with water. Molasses does not affect steel, it does not remove paint, it is slow, smells, attracts flies so it needs to be well away from dwellings. I used it some years ago to strip deeply rust pitted 1920's disc wheels. It took a long time about 12 months if I recall but the result was exactly the same as blasting but much cheaper. Molasses is excellent when working on a long-term restoration project where there is plenty of other work to do while waiting for the molasses to fully strip parts.
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I am not sure how relevant this is, I restored a 1920's Packard many years ago and in the process had an auto electrician check the generator. He removed the third brush and cut out and fitted a voltage regulator from an early 6V Volkswagon. It worked very well - initially. The ammeter would show about 20 amps after starting the engine, then slowly reduce as the battery charged. Some time later the generator failed because solder in the windings had melted.
Further investigation confirmed that this generator should not exceed about 8 amps otherwise it will overheat as mine did. The problem with many of the generators of the era is that they are located in hot areas of the engine bay and poorly cooled.
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Two possibilities, the new top gasket does not have hole for the vent that allows the fuel to flow to the carburetor, or the small brass valve seats cast into the pot metal top are loose and leaking vacuum.
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I believe the 1910/11 Buick Model 14 known as the "Buggeyabout" had side valves. The engine had two cylinder horizontally opposed
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It will go 50 MPH and more but the engine will be revving too fast for anything other than a very short burst at that speed.
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Congratulations, they are a fine car.
I restored and owned the almost identical Standard 1926 model many years ago. There is a tube inside the exhaust manifold above the carburetor to heat the fuel/air mixture from the caburetor. It is not uncommon for this inner tube to corrode and develop pin holes allowing exhaust gasses into the intake. This will make the car run very badly. The tube can be pressed out and replaced. That is the first thing I would check
Also, these cars are quite low geared and the engine will be working very hard at much above 40 mph
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I recently spoke to an anodizing firm about re-anodising a pair of aluminium sill plates, the person I spoke to was helpful and prepared to do them but said there was a high chance the sill plates would be destroyed by the process. He recommended polishing and clear coating so I have polished out most of the scratches and will be clear coating them with "Protectaclear", it is claimed to be suitable for aluminium and it is expensive. https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7
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A body style that only its mother could love!!
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In answer to the original question, I had a 1930 Packard 740 Limo with the 4 speed gearbox and never used the low gear, it would take off in any gear on level ground with a little clutch slip if it was 4th gear. I normally started in second gear then as soon as it was rolling slipped it into 3rd. The low low 1st gear was unnecessary.
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Tackle the most difficult jobs first, probably bodywork issues.
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I have run a 12v battery through a 6v coil for a trial and it was OK but I forgot to turn the ignition off and 10 minutes later the coil exploded making a huge mess and some damage. I won't be trying that again.
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The car is a Jaguar XKSS, essentially the road car version of the racing D type Jaguar
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I have used these and they work well. The amber lights fit neatly between the two bars of the bumpers on 1920's cars.
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1/2 cup of lacquer thinner in a leaky automatic transmission will sweII the seals and halt the leak.
For how long?
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The car in the front on the left is a Morris Oxford about 1932
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"V out the cracks with a grinder, fill with Bondo sand smooth and paint the wheel. Cost you about $10 bucks."
I did that about 30 years ago on a badly cracked wheel as a temporary repair until I could find a good wheel. I never found another wheel and the repaired one is still perfect. A very easy DIY job
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I had a similar crack stitched on a cast iron Packard cylinder head some years ago, it failed in a very short time. There was not enough thickness, due to internal corrosion, to hold the pins. As suggested above have the thickness checked before making a decision.
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I would suggest you find a local automotive paint supplier and have these discussions with them, if they can't help find a supplier who can. There are traps with what you are asking and you have to know what you are painting over.
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The fact the cost of restoration is likely to exceed the final value of the car has been known for a long time.
I am currently restoring a long abandoned project car from piles of parts, its a giant jigsaw puzzle. I am doing all of the work except the final upholstery and with luck I could sell it when it's finished for about what I will have spent on it but even if I end up losing money, so what, I am retired and it is what I enjoy (mostly!) doing every day. it's a hobby where you can recover at least some of your expenses and the result is rewarding.
I could buy the same car in nice running condition and take it for drives but what would I do the rest of the time? The project keeps me busy all of the time, even when I go to bed trying to figure out the solution to a problem. Sounds good to me.
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I can't help but you need to state the type of wheel, the hubcaps are different on each type of wheel.
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Some time ago I helped restore a small 1930's front-wheel drive BSA car originally fitted with a cork clutch. The first time the car was driven after it was finished it sheared all of the corks. The old corks had aged and simply crumbled under load. We consulted a local clutch expert who was open to the use of both corks, as original, or a modern friction material suitable for operation immersed in oil. We chose the modern material mainly because it is more robust and it worked fine. The cork would also have worked well. Your choice.
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Packard first used chrome plating on the exterior brightwork of the 1929 6th series cars. The interior brightwork was nickel plated
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Something like this, although it is for a hexagon head? Anyone know what this wrench fits?
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From what little can be seen I would say it's a 2 cylinder 1912 Maxwell AC Messenger.
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1918 Buick 4 door touring wood
in Technical
Posted
I have to agree with Jeff, unless you enjoy working with wood and have plenty of time. I agree with the other comments above.
I replaced all wood in three 1920's cars over a very long time. The woodwork in each one took a long time, there is no easy way. The original steel panels need to be assembled and temporarily supported, correctly aligned to the original shape. Then each piece of timber is shaped to fit inside the panels using the remnants of the original pieces (if the exist) and fitted in places with tightly fitted joins between each piece. Most pieces will not be square to each other.
Access to an identical model car can be a great help for basic dimensions but its wood will be covered with trim. Drawings may not exist. The work is the reverse of the way it was done originally.
You need to like working with wood and be very patient if so it is very rewarding.