Landman
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Posts posted by Landman
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My car will be a very similar color. Is there a name for that color on a 1937 Olds? Sorry if you said it already and I missed it.
It looks a bit like the "Light Chestnut" on my '34 Chevy.
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Welded the hole shut at the top of the molding. It isn't used on a '34. Slathered some filler over the area, sanded it down and gave it the base coat of Mahogany. Next comes printing the grain.
I also have the makings of the model.
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Photos 3 & 4 feel familiar.
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Thanks. I have all kinds of documents that came with the car that was in the glove box. At least I finally get to see some real progress from all the hard work. Yep it's warm. Actually it's going to be 85 by this Saturday. Hope it's not going to be a real hot one this year.:cool:
Hey Martin, send us HALF of that 85, we'll be happy.:cool:
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Hi Pat - should have asked earlier - being that you found a 1933 Coupe rear Garnish Molding; was there any other Window Moldings or other parts available? I need the little round covers for the '33 Moldings & any other wood brackets & braces etc. that I can find. Thanks again - keep up the stellar work! (when does the 1/12 scale model '34 Master Coupe work start?).
I got it from Joe Iaccino in Arizona. I'll PM you his email. He has a 33 coupe.
As far as the model, I have two avenues to follow. One is to modify the Danbury Mint 1/24 Chevrolet roadster with the roof of an AMT '34 Ford kit. The other is to use the 1/20 Hubley/Gabriel 1932 Chevy 5 window metal kit and fabricarte whatever I need to turn it into a '34.
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Stripped the garnish molding today. Started out in the blasting cabinet. It is awkward because of its length and the compressor is too small. The grinder mounted wire wheel worked well around the edges. The drill mounted black wheel worked very well on the flat surfaces.
Gave it a good wash with metal prep. That leaves it with a dull finish. Stinks too.
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Landman,
Is the original trim piece steel? How do you make it look like wood? Just wondering what your process was. :confused:
Martin, I bought a kit from this company. http://www.woodgraining.com/ . With a bit of practise I got some reasonable results.
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Willys77, you have a deal!
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I had woodgrained the rear window garnish from my sedan parts car. When the upholsterer called one day to bring it over, it was way too narrow. So we had installed it with a section of hidem between the molding and the glass making it look like a thick rubber. I now have a proper coupe molding albeit from a 33. The next job is to strip it and woodgrain it as well. Then I'll be able to install that neat little blind which goes in the rear window.
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How do I find out what year the engine is on this vehicle? Or if it is the original (I dont believe it is)
Thanks
Jason
Jason, post below in the Pontiac forum, they even have a section on the flatheads. Good idea to join a national level club too like
You may want to try http://www.lebaronbonney.com/ . They have a large selection of GM interior kits. If they don't have yours, they may give you a deal for the patterns.
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This '32 Chevrolet is not exactly like yours but the main body is looking very similar. Strangely enough, there is no reference of a scale on the link. I suppose it's a 1: 24 or 1:25.
The Hubley/Gabriel is 1:20. There are some 1:24 and 1:25 versions of the '32 Chevy in both metal and plastic. The only thing close to mine is the Danbury Mint '35 Chevrolet Standard Roadster in 1:24 and very expensive.
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The rumble seat hinges for the '31 are available here: www.iandireproduction.com Item #RH01, $60/pr, the latchis available here: www.fillingstation.com , Item #GR-410, $82.50. You might as well get both catalogues.
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I think I would start by modifying something that is close first, like The Gabriel '32 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-MIB-Hubley-by-Gabriel-1932-Chevrolet-Coupe-Metal-Model-Kit-Sealed-Parts-/380830093618
There is no model of a '34 Chevrolet as far as I know. I could learn to mold/shape/fabricate the parts required and fiddle with it until it looks like the real thing. I don't think I'll ever get around to building one from scratch.
By the way, I and several others have suggested to the man doing the models in the link below to send his pictures and story to that craftsmen site.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/2-3-scale-cars-motorcycles-55257/
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Just ordered both Wingrove books.
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Not at all, Pat. Have a look here: http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/index.html There are plenty of people doing small "machines". The difference between a car model and a real one (except the size)? For a real car, you need space and outside help. People are looking at what you are doing because sometimes you have the garage door open. Once completed, you go out with your car and, especially yours, people notice and like it. There is so much more exposure to real cars compared to scale model...Once the Mark II will be finished, it will stay behind glass, unless I can reduce myself to sit in!
Lord Thunderin! Roger, you are right next to Gerald Wingrove in there. I had seen some of the people in there from time to time , like Michael Paul Smith and his unbelievably true to life dioramas. But I still say, you are at the top. Nuff said.
Do you think , If I bought Gerald Wingrove's book, I could teach myself to build a model of my old Chevy?
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Roger, you have no competition whatsoever. You are alone in the world doing this.
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I just purchased a 1931 Chevy 3 Window which was found in a corn crib in Illinois. They guy I got it from said he purchased it to street rod but decided to sell instead. I thought of converting to a 350/350 combination but after getting original engine running, I believe I will leave it alone.
The car has a rumble seat lid, but from what I have found online, this was not an option for the car which has job number 31557 on its cowl tag. Can anyone confirm this? The rumble seat lid is obviously not installed correctly.
I also need the trim for the door windows. There is nothing to hold them in place when rolled up and the passenger side has already been broken.
This car is in great condition. The wood seems to all be in good condition and is all steel with the exception of the rear fenders which are fiberglass. The title I got with the car shows to be owned by a Chevrolet dealer and was issued in 1969. It is signed by the president of the dealer and has been left open all these years. I really hate to turn the title in as it is so old.
If anyone could please let me know where I can purchase the parts needed for the windows and has information on the rumble seat option, I would appreciate it.
Nice find. Scan your title on a high resolution scanner, then you'll have a good copy of it.
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Those parts hanging from wires sure bring a lot of memories. I'm like you, I find it almost impossible to work at home, too many distractions.
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I woder how they do those decals. I have old licence plates that are not embossed and I would like to redo them. The detail is too fine for hand painting.
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Par, if you sealed those windows, it means that yu intend to go out with the car when it's raining?!
Not on purpose Roger. I would like to go on some tours eventually and there is no guarantee that it won't rain. Same for car shows. I don't spend all the time with my car, so if it starts to rain I may not be there to put on the special cover I had made.
So it is more of a precaution.
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Received the exhaust gasket set. Will put these on before the Spring.
Bit the bullet and injected windshield sealer under the windshield and rear window rubbers creating the mess of the century in the process.
Luckily, this stuff cleans up nicely with Varsol and a thousand paper towels. There still is a bit of squeeze-out here and there but I was sick of the smell this afternoon.
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I had an uncle who had a 4 cylinder Chevy II in which he never changed the oil. Just kept adding it.
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Dave, we are looking forward to following your progress. As John says, there are a lot of knowledgeable people who hang around here.
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I took the opportunity to check the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They look OK. A sight drag on the feeler gauge. However it still has the hesitation/stumble when you apply some throttle. Upon revving it up to investigate I saw some tiny orange sparks coming out from under the manifolds. I shut it down and waited for my heart rate to get below 300. I started it again and felt underneath. Looks like leaks on the underside of each exhaust manifold runner. I'm sure I lined the flanges before I bolted the two manifolds together. I might have even waited until they were tight on the engine before tightening them up. Would doubling up on the gaskets help something like this? :mad:
I reinstalled the hood corner that had fallen off and glued a split piece of tubing to the flange at the rear of the hood which rests on the cowl vent when the hood is laid flat.
I also found the perfect article for the glove box.:cool:
1913 Metz 22 - Our first project
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Jeff, I've been fighting with the lighting inside my blast cabinet without much success. You just gave me the solution. Thank you.