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Landman

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Posts posted by Landman

  1. Hi Pat. Don't give up - these things take time! You may want to try the "vcca chat" Chevy site, as well. Post the complete Data Plate Info & that will get you results. Example of Data info is: Job Number, Serial Number, Body Serial Number, Engine Serial Number, Paint & Trim Codes etc. Hope this helps. (The Data Plate is on the firewall, by the way).

    That and Keiser's is good advice. The VCCA boys are specialists. There may be some guys in the Chevy section down below here that can help too. And like Keizer says, pictures can help us tell you between years.

  2. Hi Pat - Thanks for the link to the woodgraining site. Your garnish molding looks beautiful and the blind adds a really nice finishing touch. Sweet:)

    Jim, I understand those blinds were to prevent a nasty reflection off the windshield in low sun conditions. I've seen them in several cars but I'm not sure if it was factory or an accessory. I remember getting that glare in my Model A. I agree, It is kind of a neat finishing touch.

  3. Pat,

    Looks to me like it turned out great. Is the pattern that you went with just the straight grain that they offer? I spent some time watching the videos on their site and pretty much fully understand the process of getting the grain to transfer now and the use of different size rollers. I also looked thru their photos and saw a Chrysler Airflow dash that was done in the car as it would have been welded in like my Dodge. There weren't but a couple pictures of the Airflow but I got the feeling that it was done by a pro. As far as doing it myself I thinking I could do all the window trim without any problems, it's the dash that will take some effort. I'm happy that you took the time to post/document your efforts and experience while doing this. Scott...

    I think so Scott. They made me a plate with both patterns - Straight Grain and Butt Walnut.

    201403062.jpg

  4. Actually they have some pretty good step by step instructions. The only step that is unclear is the application of the tie-down coat which stabilizes your ink until you put the toner on. It liiks like you apply it right away in the instructions but I got caught twice putting it on either too heavy or too early. It erases the pattern.

    Scott, that would be a challenge alright. You'd have to make sure everything clears the roller before you start.

    And yes Roger, there is a base coat, then the pattern using the roller, then the tie down coat, then the toner (which gives it a nice warm hue), another tie down coat, then the clear. Check posting 1020, above.

  5. I just found the thread. Great looking car, and nice, nice, work you've done on it.

    I'm interested in the woodgraining, as I have a '41 McLaughlin Buick that I still have to finish the interior on, and the woodgraining all needs to be done. So, I take it that you found the Grain-It kit was worth it, and worked well? I found them a while back but wasn't sure, as the cost of the kit isn't cheap, but didn't know how well it would work, as I'd never seen anyone's car done with their system.

    Keith

    Hi Keith. Thanks for the kind words. I definitely think the Grainit kit is worth it. It isn't automatic though. You have to practice. However with practice and some care you can get some reasonable results. For the real pro stuff, you send it to them. Go on their website, there's all kinds of photos of results.There is a '40 Buick in the photo section.

    http://www.woodgraining.com/

    Here's one of the practice shots and the finished product. As you can tell, I was fighting with the overlap.

    post-59904-143142419085_thumb.jpg

    post-59904-14314241908_thumb.jpg

  6. Pat,

    That looks like it turned out great. So am I understanding it correctly that the blending paper for the most part helps match the grains and provide a starting and ending point for the woodgraining pattern? If I recall corrently the roller has the wood pattern, does the blending paper also have a wood pattern? At least one currious mind would sure like to know. Scott...

    Scott, the blending paper is just a strip of sandpaper that you put grit down on your fresh ink. Oddly enough it doesn't affect it.

    Basically, you pick up the pattern from the inked-up plate with the roller being careful not to overlap. I marked my roller with a tape. Then you start rolling at the tape and stop just before it comes back to avoid overlaps in pattern. You then put your paper down near the end of your pass with small magnets to hold it there. Then you wipe off the ink even with the paper. You start your next pass ON the paper and again stop before it overlaps, working your way around the molding. The actual blending is done with a brush or a little pointed stick.

    post-59904-143142419066_thumb.jpg

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