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cooterbfd

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Posts posted by cooterbfd

  1. On 10/8/2022 at 4:10 PM, Bloo said:

    That's exactly like the 53-54 Chevrolet-Pontiac setup, and a fairly detailed explanation of how those dash indicators work. It sure would have been nice if Chevrolet and Pontiac put that in the manual LOL.

     

    If you are using an original GM flasher from 1949, or back somewhere close to that, there's nothing to do about that.

     

    If you have a new flasher from NAPA or something, you need to disconnect the wire from the "P" terminal of the flasher and ground the wire. This is the wire coming off the left side of the flasher and heading over to the dash indicators on the diagram. Also, swap the positions of the two sockets in the dash. This makes the dash indicators work properly but does nothing else.

     

    The rest is normal, like most American cars. It has shared brake lights. Stuff to check:

     

    1) On each corner of the car, there is a wire from a good ground to each signal light socket. The factory did not do this, but do it to save your sanity....

     

    2) There is a wire from the signal switch to each corner of the car. If there are any double-contact bulbs, there are 2 filaments inside. Each filament has a hot contact and the socket is the common ground. The big heavy filament is the signal (front) or the signal/brake (back). Make sure the wire coming from the signal switch goes to the big filament. You mentioned fuse blowing. It would probably pay to look inside the sockets for a short caused by something hot and bare touching a spring or whatever.

     

    3) Inspect the bulbs. Are they 6 volt bulbs? If the bulbs are single-contact, make sure they have the big heavy filament and have not been substituted with some tail or park light bulbs with a tiny filament. If they are double-contact, look and see that you don't have a filament sagging enough to touch another filament inside the bulb.

     

    4) Beyond that, there is a hot wire feeding the flasher (on it's "X" terminal I think), and a wire from the flasher (possibly an "L" terminal) to the turn signal switch.

     

    5) There is a hot wire feeding the brake light switch. There is another wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch.

     

    6) The dash indicators are connected to the front signals. Otherwise they would come on with the brake lights.

     

    And that's the whole thing. If you have all that it can't help but work unless the switch or the flasher is bad.

     

    Here's how it actually works. With the signals OFF, the turn signal switch connects both rear bulbs to the brake light switch. The brake lights work normally. When you turn a signal ON (left in this example), two things happen.

     

    1) The signal switch connects the left front bulb (and one dash indicator) to the flasher.

     

    2) The signal switch disconnects the left rear bulb from the brake light switch and connects it to the flasher.

     

    Good luck with it. With all new wiring you have to be close. Keep us posted.

     

    Awesome.....this is the next step then......it does have a new flasher in it......my son had added a ground to the socket from the buss ground on the radiator support..... we shall work on this next. Thanks for the advice, and thanks to Joel for posting the schematic.

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  2. Small aggravating problem here. All new wiring, except in the column. Getting a fast blink on both sides, left actually blinks, right ends up blowing fuse. When I check wiring going to the bulbs, I'm getting like 4.2 or 42 ohms. Would that be me seeing the bulb going to ground???

    Any help

  3. On 2/2/2022 at 8:46 PM, John_S_in_Penna said:

    The reference to "Dynaride," along with the

    simplified current Buick logotype, will help

    to date your display piece.  My impression is

    the 1990's, but others can surely tell more.

    I'm almost positive that the counterbalance shaft was something that came in about 1988-89. It also shows a first gen FWD Electra/LeSabre

  4. 2 hours ago, moran75 said:

    Hi John

    Re the pic of the parts book - can you help me decode/understand 😀

     

    My first instinct is to say AT is auto trans for obvious reasons…but how can CT be manual trans? Is CT diff terminology for manual trans? Or am I barking up wrong tree!

     

    Also which listing are you interpreting as Gran Sport specific?

    The listing for the 400 engine would be the Gran Sport. They listed the 401 as a "400" Because of the ban on over 400 cubic inches in an A body

    cheers

    kev

     

  5. On 10/10/2021 at 1:27 PM, CarFreak said:

    Yes check your credit cards.  I won't name the hotel but when checking into my room which was paid by credit card points, I was asked for my credit card which is normal 'for incidentals' (or damage).  I put it in the machine then realized something weird, stopped and asked the clerk, yep he was charging my card almost $600 for 3 nights.  No no no!!!  Asked for the Manager who came and voided the transaction, asked for a screen shot from their computer and she made a copy of the printed email for the reservation showing 48k points paid for my room.  She said I could go to our room, no delays and she would take care of it.  Checking out 3 days later I asked for a folio and the clerk was confused.  The manager still didn't resolve the points issue and my room wasn't showing as paid by my credit card (also checked the bank app on my phone, the hold was gone, no charge) but it showed the room was not paid.  I shared that screen shot and explained what occurred.  I didn't have to pay when checking out but will definitely follow up to make sure it is resolved.  Moral of the story - always bring a printed copy of your reservation or at least have it on your phone where all details can be viewed.  

    Wouldn't it be something if the manager comped your room for the inconvenience and confusion!!

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