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Help! My car is stalling for no apparent reason!


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Ever since Thursday, (The day after my car got rained in all night long) My car has stalled three times! shocked.gif<P>Each time it is with out warning. I'll be driving along and all of the sudden, bam! The car just cuts clean off. The first time it happend, I was in the middle of trafic!<P>The dash stayed lit, and all appeared normal. At the time I had the radio cranked. I only noticed because I was turning a corner, and the Power Steering was gone!<P>I was like, "What the Hell? My car is'nt running!" I just turned the key and it started right up and ran like a charm as usual. <P>It happend twice on saturday, once while sitting in line at a Drive Thru. And again last night while I was pulling out of my driveway.<P>Each time it comes with out warning. (No sputtering of the engine etc.) And the car starts and runs fine afterwards.<P>Like I said, the only odd thing that has happend this week is I left the windows down Wednesday night, and it got rained in. The following day the Fog Lights would not go out, so I fooled around with the Relay box under the hood.<P>If you have any suggestions for what the hell this might be, please give me a response. I have to work Third Shift tonight, and I'm in no mood to take my car to the shop Monday Afternoon.<P>Thanks!

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I had a similar problem within the past year...really strange. Took it to the dealer and they wanted several hundred $ for some sensor. <P>I had a brilliant thought and went home to check how old the battery was...guess what? The battery was over due...replaced it and haven't had any problems since. <P>Simple fix for me...hope yours is as easy. :-)<P>Bette Jo

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Okay, I have the exact same problem. Took mine in, problem is a bad ECM. Once the car reaches 72 degrees (celsius), it starts sputtering & eventually stalls. It also hesitates when I step on the gas at lights. The insulator that protects the electronics was all bubbled from the heat. When the sensor had a garden hose run over it to keep it cool, the problem vanished. My mechanic is 85% positive this is my problem. The part should be arriving tomorrow, so I'll drop a line as to whether or not this cured my problem.

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Darrin, I notice you said it doesn't sputter before it stalls. Sometimes mine won't either (see above), so maybe its something to look into...Just a thought

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guys, thanks for replys but keep replying. I'm willing to try anything but walk me through it! ECM, ICM, Coil pack? What, where and how? And once I get there, what am I looking for?<P>One thing I forgot to mention, I changed the oil about three weeks ago, and the gage seems to jump from directly in the middle to high.<P>Now before I start the car and turn the key one notch, the gage will read "Low Oil" ??????<P>It only stalled once yesterday. (Around 7:00 when I pulled in the driveway) I went to work last night at 10:00, got off at 6:00 this morning and drove home, no problems. I'll keep fooling around with it and keep you posted.<P>Like I said, my mechaninc budy that works at the Buick place is out of town on Vacation. The thought of going in there and dealing with a mechanic that I don't know and that does'nt know my car is frightening!<P>Thanks again for response.

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The ICM or Ignition Control Module is directly below coil pack at the top front of the engine, on the right side. It looks like some terms may be getting confused. The ECM is the computer that integrates all the different engine functions and I doubt any mechanic would run water over it, besides, it is located inside the car behind the glovebox. The comment about checking the electronic potting material in the ICM is a good one. Just remove the six torx screws from the coil pack and lift it off the module. You cannot lift it very far as it is wired to the module but you will be able to see the top of the module. If it shows signs of overheating as described, get a new one. I've seen prices from $125.00-$200.00 depending on the source.<P>------------------<BR>Hal, btk@vbe.com

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A guy at my job checked my car last night. He read my computer and it gave him a Code 12. Called Auto Zone and they said a Code 12 means "Nothing is wrong." <P>I'm going to try the battery (Cheapest route) and see what develops.<BR>

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All of these suggestions are useful, but it seems rather coincidental that your car just got rained in and now all of this happens. A good possibility is that there is moisture in you steering column causing the ignition off circuit to short. As far as the oil light, it should come on along with all other warning lights when car is first started, then goes off shortly after starting. If the gauge is jumping erratically, it is probably the oil pressure sending unit.

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Okay, I'm on glue. I think what I had replaced was the ICM. It was connected to the coil pack & located on the left hand side of the motor (if I'm standing facing the car). Anyway, my car is running better now. No more stalling (so far), but its only been out of the shop for a day.

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I think the moisture guess is the right one because my car has been running fine since Monday.(NO STALLS!) <P>I'm still as nervous as a bird sh**ing a peach pit however! It's just that my car has ran great for the last 16 months and WHAM! this happens!<P>And I quickly learned that there are no "Reatta Mechanics" at least not where I live. The only gearheads I've found who have a fondness for them are students at the local Auto Mechaninc's School.<P>In case I never mentioned, my car is a DAILY DRIVER! That's right, like a fool I gave up my very hard to look at (But dependable) 1987 Nissan Sentra.<P>I loved the Reatta so much I could'nt stay out of it. Everyone told me to hang on to the Nissan, but I would'nt hear of it.<P>It was 12 yrs old when I got my Buick, and I was happy to see it go. Now I'd love to have it back, and have my baby sitting in a garage all week.<P>Oh well, you live and you learn. Thank you so much for your input though. And just think of all the poor bastards out there who have a problem arise with their cars and dont have a Forum to turn to! tongue.gif

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