Steering stabilizer

[Mars]

30 cf 4dr. Has anyone ever thought about using a steering stabilizer on a vintage car? To sort of tighten up the front end.

[Guest]

There is only one correct way to tighten up a front end.  Rebuild it.  Accessory things like stabilizers are band aid fixes.  I would not drive or ride in a vehicle with them if I were aware of it.

[Mars]

Where does one begin? Just replace parts?

[Guest]

You need to find out what is loose ie: kingpins, bearings, shackles, tie rod ends and steering gear.  Shackles need to be correct on all four corners.  All four springs need to be arced correctly.  Alignment needs to be checked, toe in, castor and camber.    Camber is the only adjustment that you could not make yourself unless you had a complete shop. Wheels, rims and tires need to be true.  If you have the kingpins out make sure you get the spindles "Magnafluxed". 

The shop installing my king pin bushings magnafluxed my spindles and they were both cracked half way through.

Do it right and it will be like driving a new car.  I can take my hands off the wheel at 60mph on a straight and level road and even on a properly banked curve and my car follows the road perfectly.  Other than the camber and having the king pin bushings pressed in and reamed to fit I did all the other parts replacement and adjustments myself.

[Spinneyhill]

Don't throw money at it. Diagnose it first. Here are the ways I do it (and the safety inspectors do it). You will benefit from an assistant.

1. Get your assistant to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the steering joints underneath. This will show any movement at the drag link ends and tie rod ends.
2. Wiggle the steering wheel while watching the front wheel (e.g. stand outside and turn it through the window while you watch the wheel on the ground). You are looking for free play in the steering box, i.e. how much the steering wheel turns before the wheel moves. Drag link and tie rod end wear with also affect the amount of free play in the steering wheel. By being gentle you should be able to feel the free play in the steering box. Before taking the steering box out, run through the adjustment procedure to make sure it is ready for overhaul and not just needing adjustment.
3. Jack the car up and support the front end with the tires about 2" off the ground. Lever each wheel up with a bar underneath. If there is vertical movement (e.g. a wee clunk), the king pin thrust bearing needs re-shimming at least, replacement possibly or king pin bushes are worn. 
4. Grasp the tire top and bottom and wiggle in-out. Movement may be due to loose wheel bearing or worn king pin. You will need an assistant to tell where the movement is.
5. Look at the suspension shackles. I am not sure what the CF has; my Dodge 8 has "silent block" bushes and yours may have too. The rubber in the sandwich comes detached from the steel sleeves (inner and outer) allowing movement in the wrong places and directions. If you have grease nipples on them, they could be the other type - a threaded bush - and worn. A crow bar and some force may be necessary to see any movement there.

 

By the way, DO NOT put grease in the steering box. It should be a heavy oil, usually called a semi-fluid grease. This stuff will slowly flow back after a turn, whereas grease will not.

 

 

Edited April 22, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Mars]

Thanks to all who responded. Very helpful