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Paul K.

Plug Wire Installation

8 posts in this topic

Getting closer to my low power problem. I have found two bad plug wires and am asking the group on the recommended procedure/sequence for "fishing" the wires through the the shielding? It looks like the 5th or 6th one you try to put through will get jammed cause thing are too tight. If it means anything I need to replace #7 and #10 wires. BTW, I plan to buy a new set from Earle Brown, but I plan to attend my first show with the car this weekend and I wont be able to get the new set in time. I have a half dozen extra good wires that came with the car which will get it fixed for now. Thanks!

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if you do not have to raise the hood ?

you could just run them outside the plug wire tube.

gene

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Thanks Gene, I don't have to raise the hood as I won't ask for it to be judged. I may just do what you suggest and do it once when I get the new ones. I am curious, I have seen many bad plug wires in my time, but to see ones that are "open" and are of the solid core type is strange. (not impregnated carbon radio supression type)

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yep i never seen a solid core wire open.

i have seen solid wires where that the little thing that goes into the

dist cap did not have probe that actually punches into the end of the wire.

checking with a ohm meter, get a open reading.

then get to looking at them, some have a spike like deal that sticks

up in the wire, and i have seen ends with out it and with a ohm meter

read open

gene

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I just finished pulling a set of Pertronix 7mm wires through the conduits, and didn't really have much trouble. I put the tubes on a couple of boxes with the ends hanging over, set a stool by the boxes so I could sit down, and looked at the terminal plates to tell me which wire should go where. No. 11, and 12 are the longest and cross over to the other side in the bridge conduit. I worked from the back, just pushing wires to the terminal plates. I then put the tubes on the engine to adjust the plug end, and took the tubes with wires back to the boxes and cut the wires, put on end terminals which I had to shorten, and pulgged in to the terminal plates. Don't forget to label each wire as you push through. The Pertronix wires are supposed to be good for 45,000 volts, and should handle a dual MSD set up with Blaster coils even with the metal conduits. I bought an 8 cylinder universal set and ordered four extra leads.

I still need to pull wires for the generator, points, and temp gage sender, so I can't tell how well it will work, but it looks good so far.

Abe

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Thanks Abe. What are you using to pull the wires through? Baling wire or similar?

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Paul:

The Pertronix plug wires were stiff enough that I was able to just push them from the individual plug hole toward the front without a fish wire, and use a pair of long nose pliers to take the cross-over wires out through the cross-over opening. I did spray a bit of silicone lubricant on a couple of the wires as I felt more resistance as the wire tubes began to fill. I thought about going to an electrical supply store and purchasing some commercial wire pulling goo, but managed without it. If you are having difficulty, that might help. I may need to resort to a stiff fish wire for the smaller distributor, generator, and temp. sending unit wires. The old insulation on these wires is missing in parts, so I'll have to replace these wires as well. Don't want to scratch the plug wires though, so it would pay to put tape on the fish wire.

Abe

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