54 Buick Power brake-frame mount-dual master cylinder-conversion

I know that was a lot of keywords to put in a topic line, but here is the detail:

1954 Buick Century

I am going to replace my stock Treadlevac power brake booster and single chamber master cylinder with a modern dual master cylinder and booster. I have read a lot of the posts on here discussing disk brake and MC conversions, but (unless I missed it) I don't think anyone discussed this option:

Frame mount dual MC with booster

I know this will not be a direct bolt-on, but this looks better than any of the other 'universal' kits I have seen so far. The measurements seem good, the bracket looks awesome for bolting onto the frame, and with a bit of tinkering with the stock pedal linkage, I think this could work.

Comments??

(PS - I am also doing the Scarebird front disk conversion while I am at it - along with all new lines and a completely renewed (but stock) rear brake system.

Sounds good. Those 54 power brakes will either put you in the floor board or the car in front of you. I'd welcome something like this. My only concern is access to the filler caps would end up approximately under the drivers seat. Right?

Hey Lamar.

There is a remote fill kit that you can get a MP Power brakes. I am still waiting to find out if I can adapt it to the same MC as is in this kit from Pete's.

So, I take it by the silence out there, nobody had done this?

A number of previous posts have mentioned/used products from MBM Brakes, Steering, & Suspension

Mike M

www.buicknet.com

I'm new to this site , also installing dual master in frame of a 54 buick . I fab bed my own adapter bracket and rod , but then realized the pedal ratio is almost 1 to 1 , which makes it impossible to stop , even with a power booster , has any body come up with a different pedal arrangement ?

A friend that did this changed the fulcrum point to achieve a 6:1 advantage...did not see how he did it, but he got another pedal assembly form one of my parts cars (fabricate? replace earlier FUBAR?).

Hi,

I have not converted my Buick, but I did convert my disassembled 1937 Cord. I bought the dual MC from Jegs.com. Their tech people were very helpful in selecting the best manual brake MC for the job. Here's what my install looks like:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=20ACF37336860DAB!118&authkey=!AOPRBiQVHvN-DAU&ithint=folder%2cjpg

Jegs and Summit Racing have a large selection of vacuum-boosted master cylinders for custom building. Perhaps you can find what you need from their sites and tech people.

--Tom

I am also swapping a treadlevac from my 1955 Buick super. I have just purchase a direct replacement unit that offers a 4:1 ratio , and has a remote MC reservoir.

Forgot to mention it uses the original brake pedal linkage, just drill mount holes into frame, adapt brake lines.

I will post complete DIY pictures of the process for any who are interested in doing this. I have researched installing a dual MC for the past 2 months and have found a company who sells the set up needed to mount under car to frame with little modification needed.

i will also be converting the front brakes to disc using scare birds brackets and a caliper and pads from a 1972 riveria .

Yes! Please do post pictures, parts list and description. With the 1:4 ratio of the additional fulcrum point it appears to be a good solution.

that looks like the same setup I used, Believe it was from Speedway.

Just had to take a piece of steel to make an adaptor. I went with where the MC goes on a non power 54, they used a long rod and put the vac assist way far back if you have a power brake car.

Also made the push rod adjustable note I used the OEM brake arm and pedal

It did clear the underseat heater

At first, the new front disk didn't grab much. Had to break it in for perhaps 20 miles, then it all started working good. I need a slight adjustment to put more up front, my rears will lock up first on a hard stop so you have to have a balance valve. Put the fluid cups up by the Washer bottle, one is front brakes and the other is rear. With all new brake lines, had a couple of small leaks but easily identified. This was easy as the body was off and I have a cowl to check clearance. You will definitely need a lift to do this body on but otherwise it should not be too difficult. Just had to fab a small adaptor mount but the rest was easy. I also have Riviera rear drums and the ratios are a bit different on disk brakes and drum brakes but once it all settled in it works quite well.