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About JanZverina

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    San Diego CA
  1. Thanks, Ed. the 67s are available in clear only at Bulbtown, while one other place has the 67As, but has a $50 minimum order - that's a lot of bulbs! Some googling shows that one can use stained glass paint to tint a clear bulb, but I can't imagine the coating will last long due to heat. But worth looking into. -Jan
  2. Thanks again, Ed! Sounds like another fun job ahead. I'm having trouble finding the 67Ambers online, and the 1034As look to be superseded by the 1157As. I once told my wife that a good hobby is akin to having a passion for something, but I'm not sure she believes me when I come in from the garage after a couple hours or more of being "tackling challenges." This weekend I finally got the Riv running again after I sent back the rebuilt Rochester carb for a check, since it wasn't coming down to curb idle. The cause was a bent linkage in shipping it back to me the first time. Plus, an exchange on a defective AC Delco voltage regulator, the first one which would make my Amp light glow as if it had 1,000 watts. So all's well in the engine room again. Now on to switching out the front parking lamp lenses and eventually sorting some loud rattles in the right door after going through the 'outer door skin removal' process. Probably time for the full vent window weatherstrip and felt kit. I've had good luck with Rubber the Right Way previously.
  3. Thanks, Ed. I'll look into that. Does one remove the socket(s) from the rear of the assembly like the tail lamps, or is it better to replace the bulbs by removing the trim and lenses from the front? If the former, do you recommend using some penetrant first?
  4. The factory shop manual specs call for say 1034A and 67A. Three questions: Looking at some eBay pix of the front housings, am I right in thinking that's one 1034A and two smaller 67As per side? Looking at the same pix, the 1034A is orange and the 67As are clear. Is that correct? I thought the A means orange, right? I can order the 1034As, but do the 67As go by a different number these days? Thanks!
  5. Someone recently told me (I don't think it was on this forum) that the front outer parking lenses on the 63-64 Riv are interchangeable side-to-side, but in looking at the eBay ads I see they are marked LH and RH. Can someone confirm that they are not interchangeable? Thanks,
  6. Hi John, See https://mrgusa.com/ Just a possibility... I've used them for smaller plastic chrome plated parts and they've always delivered a great result.
  7. Hi offdensen, I had my pump rebuilt recently by Lares Corp. and upon asking the same question, they said their seals will handle any kind of good quality P/S or ATF fluid offered today. I'm using non-synthetic Dex-Merc ATF and everything seems to be fine.
  8. Would any of you kind souls have a spare original 1963-64 outer front parking lamp lens to sell, not NOS but in pretty good condition? I scored a good one plus the inner lens on eBay that polished up very well, no crazing or cracks included! Now I just need another one. If it comes with an inner lens as a combo deal, that's fine too. Thanks in advance.
  9. Congrats - like most things in life, it's a journey of understanding and gaining all-important knowledge. Keep in touch with your ROA brethren.
  10. Yes, I saw that! They say that one can never spend too much, but one can buy too soon.
  11. Hi Rodney, My outer lenses have some pretty noticeable cracks, so I don't think fine polishing would help. I did use that method to refresh the original tail lamp lenses, though.
  12. Thanks, DQD. I scored an original outer and inner lens combo in good shape on eBay so I'll let you know once I install them. I prefer good originals to "it's kind of OK but..." repros. It's beyond me why vendors can't make the effort to replicate these pieces perfectly, given today's digital age of 3D printing, etc.
  13. Update: Today I brought the Riv in to my trusted mechanic, who after checking all vacuum lines once more after I did, used a stethoscope all over the carb. He said it's definitely an internal air leak between the top of the carb base (not the manifold-to-carb gasket which is new) and the bottom of the air horn. So it's coming off again and to a highly recommended carb shop close to San Diego. I'm tired of shipping car parts out of state and back. So it's sucking in air somewhere where it shouldn't be, even after a top-to-bottom rebuild. Plus I had to ask for an exchange on an AC Delco voltage regulator (C635) after installing it, only to hear a strange hum coming from it and then seeing my dashboard "amp" light flash as if there was a 1,000-watt bulb installed upon turning the engine off. Sheesh!
  14. Hi Jason and Tom, I took a good look at mine during reassembly and did some judicial paint removal on one section and never found any black paint on it. I would concur with Jim that it was engine color. Tom, I can see your preference but one can hardly see the bracket from up top. Thanks, all.
  15. Those "plush velour" interiors remind me of the point in my varied career when I was Director of Brand Communications for Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge. (I had already sent out announcements ringing the death knell for Eagle and Plymouth). I would sit in on media interviews with top execs, and at one point, in an interview with Bob Lutz, Bob waved his always-lit cigar and proclaimed that Chrysler interiors were often "just like the inside of a trombone case." Even I burst out laughing. He sure knew how to get quoted!