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About JanZverina

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    San Diego CA
  1. Can anyone suggest what I need to do to lower the curb idle on a recently rebuilt (by a reputable source) Rochester 4GC carb on my '63 Riv? I turned down the curb idle screw at the left front of the carb to the point where it's no longer touching the baseplate - does that mean I have to bend one of those linkages above it or lengthen the rod from the accelerator pedal? I tweaked the two bleed screws following a recommendation to turn them out until highest idle is achieved and then screw them both in the same amount just before a rougher idle is noticed. But the idle remains a bit high. Any suggestions?
  2. Hi Rodney, I use R43S plugs in my '63 with fine results. Electrodes are nice and beige-y upon routine inspection on an original Nailhead 401 that has gone once around the clock. I should add that I have a 'Pertronix Ignitor II' electronic ignition system (they should name a drink after that!) with a Pertronix 40K volt coil and the black stock-looking Pertronix plug wires. All the difference in the world, IMO.
  3. "If a car will go 15 miles with a stop at 7 1/2 and home again it will go anywhere. All the mechanical functions come up to operating conditions in a drive like that." Bernie, with all due respect I would have to disagree with that. Widely varying regional temperature changes, elevation changes, traffic congestion, etc. are usually part of a cross-country trip of more than 2,800 miles and 5/6 days of steady driving. Unless you have gone through your car with a fine-tooth comb and had just about everything rebuilt -- and rebuilt to a high quality -- chances are something in a 54-year old car (I have a '63) will give out or at least make enough noise, etc. to make you take care of it in the next town if possible. Yes, our best tools these days, in addition to a general knowledge of how 1960-era cars work, is a cell phone and a comprehensive roadside assistance plan, and even those may not work so well in some places. I drive my Riv, and before that, my '60 Electra on weekly 40-60 mile trips, but other than some long grades east of San Diego, there's not much in terms of variable conditions. Still. this thread made me think of the time my parents took us kids cross-country and back in 1966, in my Dad's non-air conditioned Mercedes 190 sedan. In the southwest U.S., he delighted in taking pictures of all the overheated large American cars, saying his Mercedes was superior, even though it was nothing like the ones today in terms of comfort or driving dynamics. I was thrilled to come across these photos years later and see that flattop Buick, which was a mere six years old at the time!
  4. To Rocky5517 - I would guess that the crank only/no start process is recommended by Lares because the front wheels are off the ground to eliminate resistance on the steering gear from the tires. To PWB: I have a C635 on order, thanks. I'll swap the cover. I for one like a pretty original underhood appearance. I'll send some images when I can. Thanks to all who responded!
  5. The good news is that I had my Rochester 4GC carb rebuilt by Don Monroe in Tacoma WA - he has a regular ad in the Buick Bugle and does great work - as well as my power steering pump that was rebuilt by Lares Corp. in MN. I usually don't like to tackle two major system repairs at once because it's only more unknown variables to deal with, but my '63 is mobile again and running just fine. The only downside was that after all that flushing and bleeding of the steering pump, my AMP light remained on after startup, probably after properly following Lares' rightful procedure of raising the front wheels and then cranking the engine (w/disconnected + wires to the coil and less than 20 seconds per crank) while turning the steering lock-to-lock to bleed the p/s system of any air. Fearing I fried the alternator, I first swapped out the voltage regulator with a spare I bought in 2013 from CARS Inc., which had a "Made in China" stamp on it that caused me some concern. But the AMP light was no longer on during running, so victory! Options: I can get an AC Delco replacement VR or maybe have my original one rebuilt, or maybe I can just use the Delco-Remy cover from my original VR and change it over to the AC Delco VR? A Google search didn't reveal too many rebuilders still doing this, so does anyone have a good source for that? Plus, does anyone have thoughts on using a solid state (electronic) VR versus the old-school ones? Thanks in advance for your comments. "RIVIVED" (the vanity plate on my Riv) and I would be grateful as we navigate around all the Priuses (Prii?) here clogging up the southern CA roadways! All of them either silver or white. Sheesh!
  6. I would imagine that they come from the same supplier, no?
  7. Has anyone purchased these and if so, were you happy with them both quality- and fit-wise? https://www.opgi.com/riviera/1963/lamps-lenses/marker-lamp/BR03160/ Are there any alternative sources for them? Thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks, Tom. Sounds like this was the setup on all 50-state Rivs that year and had nothing to do with the California Air Resources Board (CARB), since I see that agency was formed in 1967. Plus, my Riviera was first sold new in Washington state. I'm only the second owner.
  9. Does the original-equipment Rochester 4bbl carb for a '63 401 Riviera have a inlet on the upper passenger-side of the carb toward the rear that's for a rubber tube that's attached to a metal pipe that connects to the lower portion of the passenger-side exhaust manifold? If so, is that a preheat/choke function? I have an almost identical Rochester, but without that inlet port, that was recently overhauled. Is it a big deal if I block off the tube? I live in San Diego so low-temp starts are not typically a problem. Thanks!
  10. I just went through this procedure of removing the power steering pump, and of course the pulley, on my '63. I tried cinching the belt with a strap but still had slippage. I soaked the pulley bolt with PB Blaster overnight and then heated it with a hair dryer. A long breaker bar and a bit of patience got the bolt turning. Mine is not a reverse thread, It's lefty loosey.
  11. Thanks, JZ Riv. Is that better than using the AC-Delco power steering fluid now sold for later model cars?
  12. I had my stock power steering pump from my '63 Riviera rebuilt by Lares. They said that any fluid that holds the pressure will do. Can anyone here on the forum be more specific and recommend the type and a preferred brand of fluid? Or tell me which brands I should steer clear of? (pun intended). I've heard that some fluids can actually shrink the seals. Should I stay away from ATF or synthetic ATF? Fluid technology is always changing so any advice is much appreciated!
  13. Somewhere many moons ago I read an article in which Bill Mitchell berated some first-gen Riviera owner at a concours or car show for having radial tires on his car, which Mitchell said completely spoiled the overall balance of his (and Ned's) beautiful design. Yes, having a bone stock restoration not only costs big $$ but can compromise safety these days. Oh well, it's often a choice between a trailer queen and a car one can enjoy on the road. I'll take the latter any day -- but I also understand and appreciate the former.
  14. Can someone confirm for me that the flat bracket under the power steering pump - the one that goes from the engine block to the front bracket that attaches to the front of the pump - is painted silver? I think that's correct but would like to make sure. Thanks!
  15. Yup, that makes perfect sense - I should have guessed that. I'm getting some seepage but it's because the bolt pressure is off that small gasket. I'll just find some washers the thickness of the bracket at that point and snug up the bolts until it's time for the re-install. Thanks, Chris.