tblack

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About tblack

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  1. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Interesting research on the valves. Any master book info on springs? Does anyone have a valve handy to measure. Face diameter, Stem diameter, length and size and location of the keeper hole? Also does anyone have an original spring to measure Free length, Wire size wire material ,number of coils and spring diameter. Given the spring info I can use an online spring calculator to back figure the lbs rating. Has anyone purchased replacement springs ? From who? The valves I have are 283 chevy I think...length 4.825 " stem .3375" face diameter 1.48" modern keeper fits almost flush with the end. The springs I have are free length 2.125 " wire diameter .15" Spring diameter 1.125" Pressing the cage to open position it takes about 30 lbs.....the 1923 valve cage took about 60 psi Original spring I'm guessing would have been longer Maybe closer to 3" length, diameter could be be as much as 1.3" and still fit inside the lock nut and the wire size was probably a little heavier. So if anyone has anything definitive to measure it would be greatly appreciated. Short term I'm cleaning up the upper block that I removed and I'm pulling the pan to verify that the connecting rod bearing fits are tolerable. Turning out to be a project!!!
  2. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Don thanks for the input.....From what I can gather from various sources. The 18 exhaust cages would have used a a valve stem approximately .375 while the 16 and 17 would have been closer to .31 Trouble is mine have been opened up to fit 283 chevy valves stems .3415 no bushing . Using a 283 valve in an 18 cage would be bushing with bronze sleeves down to the 283 stem size. Ive got 6 1923 valve cages, springs valves etal and with minor machineing I can make these work. I will probably go that route and use the best six of the 16 valves. I'll continue looking for complete 18 to 23 cages valves etal and reinstall those in time. thanks
  3. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    I laid everything out and measured. The 1923 exhaust valve cages are not interchangeable with 1917. They are of proper diameter top 1.68 Inches but their length is from upper bevel to to lower valve seat is 1/4" longer than the 1917 cages. The locking nut would not screw down far enough to hold the the cage in properly. This in itself could be overcome with some machining but the valve stem diameter is considerably larger and the spring pressure is probably too great for the 17 rocker towers and pushrods to handle. Using the bathroom scale it takes 60 lbs to open the the 23 valve and 30lbs to open the 17 valves. With that being said I have 2 cages that the valve guides are broken. Both of these each have bent valves and one has a mangled spring. Seems as though my earlier suspicion that the valves they used years ago were exhaust valves from a chevy 283 engine might be correct. Anyone have two 16 or 17 valve cages?? If so I think I can make them work continuing with the 283 set up. Stems on the 283 valves are .341 not sure what the original valves were . The stems on the 23 valves are .375 Also does anyone know what the spring pressures were for 16 and 17? Any thoughts on whether the old cages with broken guides could be refitted with 283 valve guides?? Thanks
  4. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Morgan thanks for the offer I'll see what's in the 23 engine as supposedly ...the exhaust valves are the same. keep you posted
  5. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    I got the upper cylinder block off, Drove out the pistons and cages without further damage. Pistons stand tall and bearings seem tight so I'm not looking for trouble on that end. I re-aquired a 23 engine and will compare the cages and valve set up. If I stay with the valves as boogered together in the 50's then I need 2 new ones or I could take 2 valves out of the 23 and group them in one cylinder and adjust the rocker tower for that new set up. #5 cylinder has a groove worn in the cylinder from some drifting wrist pin some where in its past. That problem seems to have been corrected and the oil it might burn was dealt with by using a dual electrode plug in that cylinder. In an ideal world this engine might get rebuilt but it will work for my purposes.
  6. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Morgan thanks for the info ...I also spoke to Terry Weigand last night. on the 16 and 17 all cages were the same smaller size for both intake and exhaust...Starting with 18 through the end of the cage valve era in 23 they are as you say small exhaust (same as 16 and 17) and larger intake. Per Terry If I can aquire exhaust valves and cages from 18 to 23 then I could use them as either intakes or exhausts in the 16 or 17. This narrows it down a bit. I am pulling the upper cylinder block and will drive the valves and cages out. Found this works without damaging the old parts. Also I get a chance to inspect the pistons, rings and get an initial" feel" on the connecting rods and wrist pins with the cylinder block off and the pistons dangling.
  7. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Well I got it started today but it will take some work for it to run decently. I was looking for a project and I guess I got one. I had unstuck 2 valves and 1 of them restuck. Need to look at all the valves but the cages are really stuck they have been soaking in PB Blaster for at least 3 weeks no go. I'm going to pull the upper block and then drive them out. Pending on what I see I may look to find proper valves and springs, maybe new rocker stands and see if the push rods are original. The valves presently are modern valves with wedge split keepers. The rocker stands are shimmed with 3 washers on each stud and 2 of the 6 rocker stands have repair welds. I'd like to return to original...on the 225 engine for 16 and 17 all the cages are the same size. In 18 they went to 2 size cages with the 246 engine. Were the smaller of these cages the same size as the 16 and 17. If so are they interchangeable. Do the smaller cages on 18 to 23 the same and would they work? Cage valves are great concept but when they are stuck after 50+ years of sitting it is a challenge.
  8. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    I was wondering if the back windshield was period correct. Apparently it is "JH" Tonneau Shield Co Inc 518-522 W 5th St New York NY pat Feb 28, 1912 June 1, 1920 Hoping to start the car soon as all the parts and pieces are back in place
  9. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    You are welcome to the ohio plate but it looks as though it is a 1916. There was some confusion when this car was first registered and it was registered as a 1916....the numbers though clearly place it in 1917. Another delay today as I found the upper radiator hose connection is pretty rotted away so it is off to the shop to join the gas tank for some rehab!!! These things take time.
  10. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    My 2nd fan belt is here on monday and the gas tank maybe late next week....then ready to fire it over and maybe take a ride......I found a pair of matching 1918 NY plates for your car I give them to you then. I put up the top..it needs some repair and the side curtains are in pretty good shape. Last evidence that the car ran was a 1976 car show tag.
  11. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    The belt arrived and I was excited to get the car back together... but .... when the belt was cinched tight the fan ring was directly under the upper hose for the radiator and barely touched it. As the radiator was recored in the past it is possible that it lost a little clearance...so I found a slightly shorter belt that should work...if it works I'll post the Dayco numbers.
  12. tblack

    1941 Century

    optical illusion perhaps but your 41 seems to be riding low...attached is one I owned years ago to view for comparison
  13. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    I went the long route radiator, lights, hood and fan...but a good chance to clean up the front of the engine....good news I drained 2-1/2 gallons of new full strength anti freeze so the radiator nor anything else is leaking. If the system were dry I would be worried about the radiator forming scale. Larry thanks for the tip on the float I'll follow up on that.
  14. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Morgan...nice to have met you in person the other day in Barkersville...your E-49's will keep you busy and you do have lots of extra parts. As I need a belt for my D-45, it was interesting to see you used a NAPA Gates belt 060295 6PK750.I found one on line and hopefully it will fit mine. As I look at installing the belt in advance if seems that the the ringed fan is too large to slip the belt over..seems as though the easiest way is to remove the radiator, fan and then install the belt. Can anyone weigh in on this with any tricks, 2 piece belts etc. I'm waiting on the fuel tank and the belt before firing the car over. I cleaned up the carb no surprises but at some point it would be good to replace the float. Anyone making floats out there?
  15. tblack

    1917 buick d45

    Morgan like to get together to see your E49. Although freed up I need to go through the fuel system before starting...The vacuum tank looked like it was used as a coffee pot and the grounds were left in it for 50 years! I cleaned it up and looks functional...the gas tank looks equally as murky, I drained it out (5 gallons of 50 year old fuel), dropped the tank and sent it over to shop to be rehabbed. I'll get it back in a couple of weeks. In the waiting period I'll clean up the carb and evaluate a fix for a cracked bow up top. Not planning a full restoration only making it functional and reliable, the patina is fine.