P6tu

Would look like that, but the pump plate didn't have any worn markings and even the old plate looked worse and even that performed better (4+ years ago). The offset half moon looking things were properly tight and I find it hard to believe, but maybe I did miss something... I really need to get something to measure the pressure... Maybe I am looking for the pressure gauge with wrong words, but would someone be able to help me find a proper strut to measure the pressure from the front pump? All the measurment points seem to have the same thread, but I am not able to get anything in EU. I can get the high pressure hose and the gauge to measure up to 400psi, but I just can't get anything to fit and tighten in the measurment points on the transmission...

I made a few videos also that show and explain the issue. This video shows the poor performance (stationary acceleration with the lever in D position): In this video I tried to capture the sound (video starts with lever in N and then followed by D, L ...some struggle with lever position change by a girl :D... R and the back to L, D and finally N): If someone could specifically point me what to exactly look for, I'd be greatly thankful. From all the troublshooting tips it all directs to issues in the reaction shaft flange (the plate that has oil passages that route the pressure either to the small turbine or big turbine and etc.), but since I cleaned it all, then I am a bit lost... What also troubles me, is that with the speeds over 30mph, the performance is normal, with the exeption, that it does not have this increased humf, when flooring it and does not have that specific sound that it used to have, when the acceleration pedal was pressed all the way down within speeds between 20-60 mph.

Very good. This seems to be a bit more detailed than the chassis manual... I need to take the transmission apart again and go through everything step-by-step.

Picture again of cleaned servo components (prevvous one is balck for some reason.

But the servo was the easy part... After cleaning that, I didn't see any changes and had to take the transmission out. But I cleaned everything inside and took apart most of the elements (turbine vanes, clutch pack, both bands, pumps and the flange). I did not do anything with the accumulators and I didn't disassemble those to bits and pieces. Just took them away from the flange plate (damn tricky with one nut instead of a bolt which was not needed to be fully loosen)... Only thing, that appared a bit different was the low band, when compared to the inside of the high band. So I replaced that. I could not say, that it was exatly worn out, but just had a strong hint of being used. I had the band adjusted to max also prior to installing the new band, so I tought that this was the culprit, but nope. I adjusted the bands according to the book by tightening it and then 6 turns back - did I do it incorrectly? The high band works perfectly...

Before.

Servo cleaned.

I didn't clean the exterior, but I did clean the interior... Didn't make much pictures, but:

I've searched from hometownbuick, but there isn't a manual for variable pitch dynaflow. I have the variable pitch dynaflow transmission, not the flight one. Sorry for not stating that in the initial post.

Just in case - picture of the link that I describe as a "kickdown" switch.

I did try that. I can't say that the performance would have increased and it was rather the same (no effect). I understood, that this is the "kickdown" switch... But there was one change when changing that link position - when I switched to drive and then pushed the link up (like it would with full throttle) against the spring tension, then the whistling/whirring noise went lower (but did not dissapare). After that I put it in full throttle position with a ziptie and tried to drive - but couldn't tell a big difference. But what I find a bit strange about it, is that when the engine isn't running, then there is no spring pressure on that "kickdown" link at all - is that normal? About adjusting the rod attached to the linkage - can I do it without taking the high accumulator off from the flange?

Could you ellaborate a bit? I do not quite understand, what do you mean by wiring the lever at full stroke :S ?

Since this transmission fix will seem like a long term project on it's own, then I am leaning towards swapping the transmission as a whole in general for this summer or maybe even for a longer term. I've been working on this transmission for this whole winter time. Is there any newer transmission that would not require the torque tube to be replaced with an open driveshaft and would not require any alternations to the car and car frame? Has anyone maybe done it already? I read something about someone doing something to a 322 engine, but there is no update afterwards...

Can't quite tell so... Maybe a little, but it is not so well to differentiate. But if you floor it at 50mph, then you can definitely feel the torque and acceleration. Yes, both of them (there are two). Sad story is, that I was not able to get a suitable pressure gauge... Well, actually I know, where to get the gauge, but the problem is about getting a proper end to screw in (metric vs imperial issues). Regarding the seal - it worked very well before. Just at the end of last season it suddenly started acting like that after hitting the pedal a bit harder at the green light (nothing hard and not exactly flooring). Before that the transmission worked and functioned as it should.

The whining noise is related to transmission. That much is already certain. The noise is only apparent when the gear is either D, L or R. In neutral everything is fine. Poor performance in sense that the acceleration from 0-40 is ... very bad as if the transmission clutch is slipping. When the transmission was taken apart, then I can tell that both of the pumps are in top shape, the pump plate is clean and has no wear, the clutch pack is like new. I did replace the low band. it was a bit worn and I tought that maybe that has something to do with it. There are some rust markings (VERY OLD ones) on the flange shaft, but if those would be the ones causing the problem, then it should have been a long itme ago, since the rust places were there already then. The transmission has been taken apart about 3 years ago and everything was replaced already then (besides the low and high bands). When the car has reached 40+mph, then the performance is as it should be. And just in case - as mentioned, the valve plate and the flange has been precisely checked and cleaned. There was this graphite like excess debris or rather mass as you would expect if you had burnt your clutch or bands, but as stated, only the low band looked like worn out... But not that much. I can add pictures of the old one, but compared to the new one, it wasn't so bad. And I can not find anything or any source for this graphite like mass. Ouh, and also, the variator blades are all in neat condition and have no bents nor loose blades in the turbine. For me, as much as I have investigated the chassis manual and made the things clear for myself, then it looks like there is no pressure forming in the small inner turbine. When the transmission was taken apart, then I had my hopes in some clogged passages in the reaction shaft flange, but there wasn't nothing apparent there and as stated, cleaning did not change anything. About todays achiecements so far - I have not been able to get a pressure gauge to use in those measurment points at the actuators, front and rear pumps... That would definitely narrow down the location of the cause, but still, seems like everything that can be, has already been checked and I have no idea, what I am missing. I will be heading to the garage again today and I'll try to fiddle with the "kickdown" linkage and see, if that makes any changes...