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About fordrodsteven

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  • Birthday 01/05/1954

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  • Location:
    : North Andover, MA


  • Biography
    All-round machinist, Hydro-mechanical technician, Took night course in auto body, Been working on cars & motorcycles since the age of 12.
  1. Yes, Dave, That is the cable I am talking about. I sent my removed working cable to them to use for reference. I told them to make the inner cable one inch shorter because mine is stretched to almost the end of adjustment. Yes, A few years ago I bought the Wagner cable (P/N BC129671) Then Machiner55 was looking for one so I sold him mine because I got the old cable working on my car. Now here I am a few years later looking for the cable. I think I bought the last one in the country a few years ago! I see the listing you attached also lists the alternate parts from other manufacturers.... Also NOT available. Thank you Barney, I put all new brakes (pads, calipers and rear brake cables) on the car two years ago when I changed out the whole rear end assembly. My parking brake was working okay but I decided recently to change it because I was near the end of adjustment. I had already done much research regarding the intermediate cable and still was not able to locate a new one for over a year. I know I could have bought a used part but I preferred to try to get a new cable. I even purchased and tried a cable for an Allante - it didn't work. It was a little too long and wouldn't pull the brakes correctly. Anyway. I ordered the cable today from Inline Tube. The cost is $100.00. The price he quoted me for $25.00 was just the inner wire cable with both ends. I called him and asked if he was serious. He said they sell just cables for other cars all the time. I explained that it is an assembly the cannot be taken apart unless I have some way to attach one end to a bare wire cable in my garage. I told him I want the assembly as a whole complete working unit. The final $100 price is the cable with outer casing and ready to put on the car....according to him. We will see when I get it. I will come back to this thread with the update when I have the cable in-hand and put it on the car.
  2. Hi All, Here is a possible option for the intermediate brake cable for our Reatta's. I have been working to get a replacement Intermediate cable for my '88. Mine worked just fine but was getting near the end of the adjustment. I contacted Inline Tube Company and they are making me a new cable. I am paying a design / setup charge in addition to buying the cable for $25.00 but the good news is that it can be bought. My contact at Inline Tube is Pete Nicotri in the marketing department ( He told me that they will not be adding it to their catalog but will save the information in their files for any future orders of the intermediate cable. When I get the pertinent information (P/N, methods of payment, where to purchase) I will come back and add it to this thread. Their website says all orders ship within 24 hours. They sell on-line direct or on Amazon and Ebay. That's it for now. I hope I'm not violating any forum rules by posting this somewhat valuable information.
  3. I have been successful a few times getting cars opened and started if necessary just by using any key I could get to fit into the cylinder. I was at a wedding and one of the bridesmaids came running in all upset that she locked her keys and a gift in her car. I asked if anyone had a key for that brand of vehicle. I put the key in and jiggled it up / down and back / forth. I had the car unlocked in about 30 seconds and all was good! I have opened cars and even padlocks using this method. I would definitely NOT start ripping into wiring on my car. I am 99% certain I could get it open / started using another person's key.
  4. Oh, I understand that the newer systems do not necessarily require the old format ..... But I'm old and don't want to learn any new tricks right now. LOL
  5. I personally follow the old convention (even with Teves ABS brakes) to bleed furthest from the master then moving closer to the master cylinder. So, I start at rear right (passenger) then rear left, then front right and last at front left. Also do not overfill the Teves system. Do not top it off. I usually pump the pedal (with the car not running) until the pedal gets very hard. This releases the pressure on the system and the fluid level will rise in the master cylinder. Then you fill it to the line on the cylinder tank. When you turn the key on the level will drop approximately 5/8". This is normal do not add more fluid to the fill line. I generally bleed twice at a wheel then add a little fluid as I go along. Then when I am done I pump down the pressure and insure proper fluid level.
  6. no. Front brakes are bled as in conventional method. Here is an excerpt from the ROJ how-to section; Caveat: do the rear brakes first if bleeding all four. 4. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders. The rear calipers on models equipped with the Teves system require a slightly different procedure to bleed the air from the system. 5. To bleed the rear brakes A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it. C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding) D. Close the bleeder with sufficient force but do not over-tighten. When you are done check the high and low marks on the reservoir. After the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark. Add or remove fluid if necessary to bring the fluid to the correct level.
  7. I've got my fingers crossed that was all!
  8. My code readout directed me to left rear. I unplugged the lead and found a bad connection. One of the pin sockets was pushed in probably causing a failed connection. I fixed the connection but now have to wait until I get my brake parts to reassemble then I can drive it over 18 MPH, as per the FSM, to reset the ABS light. (unless there's another problem)
  9. One more question before I pull the ABS codes. I think I remember reading somewhere that the left / right troubleshoot readout doesn't follow "normal" American convention. That the issue would actually be opposite. ie: if my code tells me left front that it is actually the passenger side and not the driver's side. The ALDL readout is based on forward looking back as if standing in front of the car. Am I correct?
  10. Okay - so you guys that "know" can start openly giving me some "loll's". How naïve could I be to think that clean the ABS sensors and gears would make light shut off? Oh well. I assembled things enough to start the car and see if the light went off. It didn't - but you guys knew that would happen. Lol. As I said earlier I have a known good set of front sensor so I can troubleshoot and change out whatever is needed. As I keep telling my brother-in-law.... I've got time - I'm retired!
  12. Hi Guys, So today I decided to put the Reatta up on the lift to check out why me rear drivers side brake is rattling so badly. I looked at it and really didn't see anything wrong or anything loose. Here's where one thing leads to another...... I went to the front brakes just to look at them and found the back side of the right hand rotor had two grooves in it. I checked the pads and they still have a lot of meat. I must have missed seeing the grooves when I put the new pads on. So I took the front apart to get the rotors turned. Of course I must sand blast and paint the brackets and other hardware. LOL. I figured while I was there I might as well check out the ABS sensors. The gears had a lot of surface corrosion so I cleaned those up. Then I unbolted the sensors. I was going to change them out with the replacement set I bought from Dave last year. Once I pulled them away I could see they were pretty crudded up. I cleaned them and put them back together figuring if it fixes the light then I still have an extra set of good sensors. They don't look that hard to change and I can change them later if need be. So while I'm here I replaced the cracked outer CV boot on the driver's side. As I was leaving the garage to go into the house for supper I looked one more time at the rear brakes. I noticed that I have the two anti rattle clips on the passenger side but none on the drivers side. I looked through my spare parts and found a pair of clips. Guess I'll be doing that next! Oops - I forgot to mention the intermediate cable! I have been in contact with a guy named Peter at Inline Tube. He says If I can send him a cable he can get the dimensions off of it and set up to make a replacement. He calculates that the cost for the first cable might be around $100. My cable on my car is good. I was thinking I might pull the cable and send it to him for the dimensions. It just kills me that I'll pay him $100 for a cable I really don't need but then it would be in their inventory catalog for all of Reatta world. Yeah.... Maybe I'll pull the cable off my car tomorrow.
  13. Seems to me (going deep into the memory banks here) that I always looked for voltage to be 13.8 to 15.2 volts for a properly working charging system. I think you need to replace your battery and insure good connections.
  14. A freshly restored 1960 Corvette. The right rear brake light sometimes worked and sometimes didn't. I added a ground wire to it and it was still intermittent. I ended up taking the steering wheel off and doing some rework on the directional detent / return spring. The problem was that the spring was not holding the directional switch lever centered and it was causing loss of contact.
  15. Paint problems from Chrysler corporation just a few years ago. I bought a 2011 Dodge Charger MOPAR. It's a special edition numbered vehicle. (I have #735 of 1,348 manufactured MOPARs) I think the issue was with only black cars but I'm not certain. Anyway. The second week I had the car I was detailing it and found round paint voids all over the roof. The primer was visible. It looked as if the paint had drops of water on it when they painted and the bubble lifted of when the car was washed. I did a little research and found that Chrysler 300 had the same issues in 2010. I brought it to the dealer. The service leader comes and looks at it. He says it's paint chips from road hazards (stones, rocks, sand). I pointed out that there was not a sigle chip or scrape on the front fascia, hood or windshield. I sarcastically told him that I didn't put the roof down in front of the car to catch all the road debris. Long story short. The dealer had the whole top of the car (hood, roof, trunk) repainted and was reimbursed by the corporation.