Need hints on replacing gaskets on 1939 LaSalle.

[Fred Zwicker]

I am in process of replacing most of the gaskets on my 1939 LaSalle. What is the best way to install gaskets:

a) Use gasket sealer? (We used to use gasket shellac years ago).

Permatex or similar? (If so, what product brand and number).

c) Some of the gaskets are a lightweight cork - how to coat and install?

d) Oil pan gasket can sometimes be a problem. I bought a gasket set from Coorpers. How to coat and install?

e) There are similar lightweight cork gaskets used on top oil covers (center of engine on top) and on fuel pump, gas gauge, transmission, and other areas.

f) When coating the gaskets, do you coat both sides?

I have not done this for many years and am sure that there are new products available now. Any help, hints or ideas appreciated and sources of supply.

Fred Zwicker

[Guest BillP]

Hi Fred,

A couple things come to mind.

Go to your local napa store, or an older parts store where the counter guys have at least 1/2 a brain and ask them what local mechanics are using.

On the oil pan at least, I only put goo on the pan flange so if/when you pull it to look around you don't have to scrape it and all the crumbs fall in your eye or down your shirt.

Be real careful of those front pulleys and don't let the weight of the engine rest on them. I had one fly apart acouple years ago because it had a crack that I hadn't seen; I think put there by somebody laying the engine down and banging the pulley.

[Guest rbl2]

DO NOT put any gasket sealers on head gaskets.

years ago I used permatex gasket sealer. It did a good job but was a horse to remove when it came to repair time. Today I use silicone. On oil pans we used to tie the gasket in place with thread. I'd still do that today if I had to replace one. I'd use some silicone sealer along with it. Same with rocker arm and push rod covers.

Definitely use a sealer on water pump gaskets.

When using a sealer you don't need to apply a lot. A thin even coat on both sides is all that's required. It can be applied either to the metal or the gasket, whichever you prefer.

If you need a sealer where gas will be involved as the NAPA jobber what he has. Silicone will not prevent a gas leak.

[Mark Shaw]

I use RTV sealant on oil pans, valve covers & water jacket gaskets.

Make sure the pan flange is flat & apply sealant only on the pan. Install it with the fasteners a half turn less than tight until it dries. Then tighten the fasteners another half turn to seal it without distorting the pan flange. When the pan is removed later, the gasket should come off with the pan.

Cork valve cover gaskets should be sealed to the head and not the cover. Again, make sure the cover flanges are flat and apply the sealant to the gasket to "glue it" to the head in the same process as above. This will provide a lip to keep oil from running down the side of the engine when the covers are removed.

Coat both sides of gaskets that seal water jacket components.

[Guest windjamer]

Fred permatex makes a product callcd right stuf.Ask your napa store for p/n 99070.Yuo get 2 tubes and the gun to aply it with. We use it extencivly in our shop.Most of your new oil pans dont even come with gaskets. Recomened is rtv black.On w/pumos or parts where you need to hold the gasket in place use 3mgen trim adhesive p/n 08088. Spray a light coat let set a few min. place gasket in place and no wory about it geting out of place. A light coat of right stuf for added insur. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />Dick

[Guest Ken G]

Mr_Tip

If you use RTV for an oil pan (and I think I would recommend it), beware of following the instructions that come with the tube. They want you to use far too much. Assuming the surfaces are reasonably flat, a fairly thin smear applied with the finger is enough. If you put on a continuous bead, as the tube indicates, some will squeeze out. On the outside that is merely unsightly, but it is potentially bad news on the inside because some can then be carried away and jam up narrow oil passages. I haven't yet resolved my problem of oil being retained somewhere, lowering the level in the oil pan when the engine is running (but not ten or twenty minutes after it has stopped), but I suspect a blocked oil passage from this cause.

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)