Guest DTerry Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Mos' likely not the neutral safety switch. That'd be an on/off: just no start, but not something that would turn off your IP. Strange that the IP goes off but the headlights stay on. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Oh that post reminds me about what my cousin said (the one that is a top mechanic at Rinke Pontiac/GMC). He warned me about the pass keys and all once. he said (I cant remember exactly as it was a few months ago) but said that the pass key system can go bad and if it ever goes bad that the easiest and cheapest way to fix it (if your not worried about jerry rigging) is to take the steering column apart and place a resistor that has the same ohm value as the key in there. this was at the same time that I was having similar problems as you Nic, except for me it was because the resistor was dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 Thanks to EVERYONE that has replied and offered their help....BUT I give up ! The problem is bigger than I can handle. Jim Finn has been helping by phone since yesterday, and he kind of has it narrowed down to either the ignition switch and /or adjustment or the Vat key system. Both are under the dash in exceptionally hard to get to places, and I am disabled...I tried to get under there but no go. I do not want to damage myself more than the car either. I intend to take it to a dealer that I talk to occasionally.Many thanks to all and especially Jim Finn who spent a great deal of time with me on the phone.Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 Keeping those who are interested up to date...I had the coupe flat bedded to an X Olds dealership where I know the shop foreman. The S/F walked to the car with me and tried to start, and discounted the Vat key system. If it were defective the "security" light would have been flashing....somthing else is amiss (and I have a feeling that it may cost me some dough) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />....More later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">and discounted the Vat key system. (and I have a feeling that it may cost me some dough) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />....More later. </div></div>Hang in there Nic, just because it wasn't one absurdly simple thing does not mean that it's not another absurdly simple thing. Hang in there. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 Opps, forget that "discount" above...the problem has been diagnosed as the Vat key system....will have to replace the switch and the system....cost with towing and 2 keys around $395.00..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Like many things, could have been better could have been worse.So it had nothing to do with the bearing.wouldn't you just solder a resistor of the proper value into the system so it will not happen again?Good that it is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maybe2fast Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 could be a passkey problem! mine did the same thing! you need a resistor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 Picked up the coupe....$537.78 <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />....included $45.00 towing and $77.00 for an additional item I didn't feel like fooling with.****PROBLEM WAS: there are two real tiny/thin wires that run from the ignition switch down to the bottom of the steering column OR run down on the side of the ignition switch (sandwiched between the the switch and the steering column ignition switch housing) to the bottom of the column. At least one of these wires and probably both of them were damaged (broken - open circuit)from apparently the constant turning and jiggling of the switch over the years...... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> >>> not really. Just hurt feelings and pocket book >>>> especially pocket book <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />Hope none of you folks have to experience the same....I sure must be doing something NOT RIGHT though...1st the mem cal or prom this summer and then this <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />At least my right wheel bearing / hub or right front wheel is quiet now <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest F14CRAZY Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Good to know you got it figured out. I'll try to remember this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Congratulations on getting it going, bum...ould be worse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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