WON'T START ????? UNUSUAL>>>>Update 10 / 18 picked up the car

[Roadster90]

Just finished putting a right front wheel bearing/hub in my coupe and went to start and dirve it and it won't start...

Has power...all the dash lights come on and I hear some clicks, but when I turn the key the power dis appears >>> dash lights and everything goes dead?????

Really confused as I did nothing to any system that would have something to do with electrical or starting....

I did check my battery cables at the battery which are making contact???? Help please.....

[Zakarasu]

i have that problem somtimes, when it happens i freak out, and remember that when i solved it, all i had to do was pull it out of park to another gear (i.e. nuetral for example) and put back in park, guess it wasnt fully in park. what you describe sounds like problem i have, just try it and see.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

If that doesnt work try cleaning the resistor on the key with some WD-40, sounds kind of what happened to me also. Got all freaked out, saw the resistor was a little black, cleaned it then all was well again. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Guest F14CRAZY]

The two suggestions sound good if your battery terminals and cables are good.

[Guest DTerry]

Are you sure the battery is good? I generally manage to run the battery down anytime I work on the car. Check the battery voltage with the key in start.

[Roadster90]

Everything was "wonderful" up until I started messing with the bearing/hub.

Thanks for the suggestions but not yet....I had already tried the moving of the gearshift-key thing...nothing. I tried my extra key and then cleaned them both just now...nothing <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Couod I ahve done something to lets say a netral saftey switch (itf it has one) by moving the hub back and forth.

I was moving the hub to align the holes in order to remove it and I just remembered, it was in park but it did spin or turn rather???? Could this have damaged anything???? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

I am going to put a charger on it right now (although it seems to have plenty of current)

[Guest EDBS0]

BUMMER [censored] #*&$$$@#

Certainly sounds like a dead battery.

Put that super big delux charger you purchased on it and good luck. Congratulations on replacing the wheel bearing.

Nothing you did with the hub would cause that.

Were you using any battery power while you were working on it?

[Roadster90]

That little black cloud is right EDBSO...more problems but this is the most pressing.

I put the charger-starter combo on it and the battery is fully charged <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />...not the problem.

[Roadster90]

I replace the ECM and prom a month ago...wonder if by letting the cack down and flexing the car I could have dislocated a wiring gang plug (that is if the ecm wiring ahs anything to do with starting)?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

If we were dealing with Fords, I'd suggest the starter solenoid. Do Reattas have one?

[Guest EDBS0]

Back to the basics...

try the headlights are they bright?

Start in park, then try start in neutral.

Still sounds like battery or ground. I would remove and clean cables.

Next the coincidence of bad solenoid or starter.

[Roadster90]

I am beginning to think starter myself...it doesn't make sense though...Heck, I don't even know where it is for that matter. Is there a diagnosis procedure for the starter anyone please? The car is in my back yard driveway...a wrecker can not get to it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> and I am unable to push it (besides it is an up hill grade to the front ..... argggg >>> I quit drinking also <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

[Roadster90]

I took the cahrger off and let the headlights burn for a few minutes and they are plenty bright. They charger isn't working just right for some reason. There is a green status light that is supposed to be blinking steady until charged fully and then it is solid green...it is not blinking a tall...it is taking a charge which I think it should after all of the messing around I have been doing but the status light operation is unusual. On older equipment I use to be able to take a screwdriver and just the solenoid to see if it was bad...is there any tests I can perform for a starter....or for that matter the cables???

I am also wondering if I messed up something by spinning the right front wheel with the tranny in park...like is there a netural saftey switch that I could have damage?

[Roadster90]

By the way .... thanks for all the replies folks ... greatly appreciated

[Roadster90]

Oh, My cables do not need cleaning...with the exception of the undercarriage near the oil filter (oil leak0 the engine and compartment is spotless almost. I removed and repositioned the cables at the battery...no corrosion and they make plenty of sparks. I see where there is a good ground from the battery to the body by the radiator and there is a good clean ground under the ICm/cil pak, but I am unsure aboth the others.

[Guest EDBS0]

Time to crack open the manual ans look for the lockout switch. I thought it was on the shifter but I am not at all certain. It just could be in the transmission?

[Guest EDBS0]

switch

Neutral safety switch, shown as being mounted on transmission. I know no more???

[Roadster90]

what page or section please Robert?

I called advance...rebuilt lifetime starter 75.00

[Guest Mike_s]

"Has power...all the dash lights come on and I hear some clicks, but when I turn the key the power dis appears >>> dash lights and everything goes dead?????"

I'm in the dead battery camp on this one.

How old is the battery? How many months is it "supposed" to be good for?

Take it out and to a garage, AZone , Advance, Pboys etc,, that can put load on it and test it.

[Roadster90]

Mike s and everyone....I am going to do some more battery checks tomorrow AM when it is light. The battery is the most expensive Advance one there is with 70 or 80 months waranty, and is only 6 or 7 months old..... but it may be the problem...acts like it, but why all of the sudden? Could just as easily be the starter or the safty net switch as well....would still like any diagnostic procedures for those items if available. Will post as soon as I do those checks in the AM or sooner...thanks.

Padgett or Two Seater out there?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Is it possible to override everything and put jumper cables to the starter? (observing precautions).

[2seater]

Sure sounds like a battery or cable problem. I don't know if modern batteries are more or less prone than older designs, but I think the density of the plates is greater than before and I have had complete battery failure with no warning. It didn't just get weak, it went almost stone dead and refused to take a charge thereafter, even jumpstarting did no good. I drove the car fifty miles to the cottage. The following morning the car was dead, no warning of any kind. Not completely dead, but not enough power to crank the engine. Nothing you were working on should have caused a problem like this. It may be possible the starter has developed a problem and the current draw is very high causing everything else to drop out when engaged? A load test on the battery is what I would recommend as a starting point.

[Roadster90]

F 14...that may be a good idea (have to find out where exactly it is first). I have tried jumping from my convertible and nothing at all, and I know it is good...been driving it today to get tools and parts.

I am going to search the manual after dinner (late I know...still have to feed the "brats" yet (my cats)before I ahve the luxury <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />).

Going out to take it off cahrge now.

Please keep the ideas coming

[shoreice]

nic, check both ends of the battery cables if you can. I had a black cable corroded nearly thru but a foot from the battery, not at the end. Looked good, tested bad, a real pain to find. Hope you find your problem real soon, Kenny

[Guest EDBS0]

Found it doing a parts search on RockAuto.

I would leave the charger on overnight.

[Guest EDBS0]

If you have jumper cables use one from the battery ground to a good engine grounding point and start the car.

[Roadster90]

Thanks Kenny..The cables will be the 1st item tomorrow as the problem is NOT...I repeat .... N O T ..... the battery. It has been on tyhe charger/starter combo for over 20 to 30 minutes and it has an A OK status solid green light on the charger....the problem lies from the battery to the starter or the secondary starter wiring or components somewhere. Cables...from what I have read on previous posts, a very good possiblilty (even though mine are super clean and look new, they could be bad somewhere...still could have the saftey switch damaged or something else damaged form lifting the car and the procedures for replacing the bearing....comments please????? Tomorrow Am I will attempt to check the cables....I guess I will try a test light and some long wire???? Not sure how to do it...any suggestions would be appreciated....

thanks,

Nic

[padgett]

To me the key is "power disappears when turn to start". If the headlights are on, do they go out ? Dome light ? If so you definately have an open connection either in the battery or in the cables (and at this age, I'd go for the cables). Way to find out is with a trouble light. Connect to battery and turn to start. Does it go out ? If so you have a bad battery. If stays on, connect the lead that was on the negative post to the engine block. Try again. If it goes out, the negative lead is bad.

If that works,connect the positive cable to the big red wire on the alternator. Repeat. If light goes out it is that sandwich on the battery positive terminal.

If everything good at this point, I'd hook a starter button directly to the S and big terminal on the starter (have done this with a short screwdriver before but would not reconmmend to anyone) and jump the starter. If it spins, the problem is probably in the starter switch or wiring but my money would be on one of the battery cables.

[Roadster90]

Thanks Two Seater and Padgett....greatly appreciated.

With the real possiblilty of the cables being the problem, am I right in thinking that they are Reatta only cables, or is a universal cable available soemwhere...please suggestions???

thanks,

Nic

[89REATTAJIM]

89's have a neutral switch relay. Under dash. about 8 inches above the park brake release. There are 2 relays up there, both the same, believe the one on the left is the neurtal start. When mine went bad, it worked after I disconnected & reconnected the wires. I replaced it almost 2 yrs ago and has been fine since. Good luck..... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[harry yarnell]

I'm with Padgett on this one. The positive terminal sandwich.

[cal55]

I would try a different battery or bypass it using jumper cables. Maybe the battery has a short in it, you mentioned the charger light normally flashes when the batteries fully charged, and now it's a solid green. It's sounds like something minor causing this.

Joe

[harry yarnell]

Let me see if I've got this right. Everything comes on when entering the car and the ignition is turned to ON. When the key is turned to START, everything goes out or severly dims. And it won't crank. This right so-far? This is almost ALWAYS an issue with the battery or its connections.

Most Reatta's have three leads (cables) coming out the positive and three out the negitive terminals; they're usually in red and black rubber surrounds. On the positive side one goes to the starter, one to the alternator, and the other to the fender mounted lug/stud just to the rear of the battery. This stud feeds the entire car.

Inside these surrounds can be one, two, or three lugs stacked together. They make electrical contact with the battery via the 8mm head bolt. It's a sandwich.However over time, oxide builds up in this sandwich. It may not be enough to cause problems with a light electrical load, but a heavy load like the starter, will kill the connection. Tightening the connection sometimes helps, but not always or for long.

The rubber surround can be cut open with a knife, and the contacts cleaned, but you lose the 'protection' of the rubber housing.

As Padgett says, check voltages with a voltmeter or test light at the distribution stud toward the rear of the battery and the ground terminal on the battery.

[Roadster90]

Thaks Cal and Harry,,,

BIG QUESTION:

With the real possiblilty of the cables being the problem, am I right in thinking that they are Reatta only cables, or is a universal cable available soemwhere (a 3 wire sandwich)...please suggestions???

[Guest MauiWowee]

neg. cable.......12078975

pos. cable.......12099672

Expensive buggers, so it looks like they are an E body exclusive. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

Thanks Maui....I had thought I had read somewhere / forum that they were unavailable new.....

[Guest MauiWowee]

I have a similar problem with my El Camino. After reading your posts, I'm getting a bad case of procrastination. Good luck. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Roadster90]

Padgett or anyone please,

I shorted the starter terminals with a mirror and a short screwdriver as you and Jim Finn have suggested ( I bypassed or did not try the test light). The starter spins <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> (I don't know how good that it other thatn the starter is good <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> ). Jim has brought up the "pass key chip" and I have tried to look in the search function...unsuccessfully....can you suggest anthing here please?

I remmeber something about the key situation maybe 3 ot 4 years ago but can't find it. I have tried both keys and nothing. The headlights also continue to burn bright when the key is turned.

[cal55]

I had a problem last week with the pass or vat key. I bought a new vat key and bought the wrong one, I guess there are 15 different keys. I had it cut and tried to start the car at the hardware store and the car would not turn over, I think the dash lights came on. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it and used the original key, still nothing. I waited about 5 minutes or so and it started right up. Not sure if this helps you, but I thought I mention it.

Joe