valve lifter problems on my 54-359

[packardbozo]

I am looking for some info on lifter clatter on my 359 the engine was completely rebuilt 10 years ago but never started until recently. what i have now is an engine that runs beautufully until it warms up and then the clatter starts 16 lifters dancing in the engine. its disappointing. i only have about 3 hours running time on the engine

any suggestions???

it has the aluminnum head. new valves lifters pistons and was done by a reputable mechanic back on the east coast who specialixed in duzenberg pierce and packards

John

[Guest Randy Berger]

Double check the oil level and make sure it is not overfilled. Also put a direct-reading gauge inline - don't depend on the idiot light.

[Guest Albert]

What weight of oil are you using? Mine will chatter a little when the oil needs to be changed, and i have done a good run on the highway. To set up the valve lifter you need a special tool that fits into the lifter holder to set the static valve length, maybe that was not done when it was rebuilt, or just that the lifter could be a little sticky from sitting for so many years. Maybe adding about 1/2 quart of ATF fluid to the oil may help clean the out some.. or it will require to pull the axcess covers and find out with the motor running which ones are making the noise and maybe shim them up a bit.. ALbert Skinner 54 Patrician 359ci..

[Guest Snopack]

John, Since this is a newly rebuilt engine and the noise occurs when warm, it's possible that the rebuilder put in a light oil for break in. You might drain the oil and use a good grade of 10w-30 and see if that improves things.

John

[mlander]

Quote from BOZONONO valve lifter problems on my 54-359 #406770 - 09/07/06 11:10 PM

I am looking for some information on lifter clatter on my 359 the engine was completely rebuilt 10 years ago but never started until recently. What I have now is an engine that runs beautifully until it warms up and then the clatter starts 16 lifters dancing in the engine. It?s disappointing. I only have about 3 hours running time on the engine any suggestions???

It has the aluminum head, new valve lifters, pistons and was done by a reputable mechanic back on the east coast who specialized in Duesenberg, Pierce Arrow and Packard?s.

I am assuming that the problem is not the oil viscosity. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Also I am going back in my memory 54 years.</span> .

I am assuming this is a Packard straight eight and not the V-8 which had hydraulic valve lifters I believe. If you have a shop manual of this old straight eight you should study carefully the part about grinding the valves. My Brother- in Law made what sounds like the same problem/mistake. Somewhere in the manual there is a paragraph that states about grinding the valves properly. The mistake he made is in not letting the engine heat up to its maximum temperature and then setting the valves to the proper clearance. Also the person who grinds the valves has to take off the valve stem end the same amount that is taken off the valve seat. This I believe is measured in the longitudinal direction of the valve and not off of the valve face angle! Just why this is so I do not know. Whether this is in the manual I also do not know. Maybe some other Packard straight eight owners will respond on this problem or at least I hope this is so.

EDIT: Just when did Packard get Hydraulic valve lifters?

Yours, M.L. Anderson

[Clipper47]

I think that the 359's have hydraulic valve lifters. Easy enough to check by removing the valve side plate for a look. It may be an annoyance but I would drive the car a few miles before I worried about it. My '47 probably wasn't driven 1000 in 50 years and when I got it it had several lifters which clattered. After a couple of highway trips of 250 miles the lifters are quiet. Checking the lifter clearance is not a terribly big job but does require a special tool which is available for about $10. The valve to lifter clearance is adjusted by grinding the valve stem. I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 oil.

[Guest Albert]

If the valves are clicking, do not grind the ends of the valves, it would only make matter worse you have to increse the length, sounds like the lifter is not pumping up the way it should. try running the engine for a few miles with son atf fluid to see if that will free them up , if not then take off the valve side covers and use about a .010 feeler guage and stick it in between each lifter and valve and see whic on is the noisy one(s). you may have to replace a lifter or two...

[Clipper47]

Albert, You are absolutely right; grinding the valve stem in this case would make the noise even worse.I wasn't suggesting that the valves be ground to reduce the noise! Often engines that sit for long periods have sticking lifters and driving quite often solves the problem. A qt. of ATF might do the trick as would my old standby Rislone especially since the engine was rebuilt and likely free of sludge.

[Guest Randy Berger]

How expensive are these lifters? A local here had his 1953 engine rebuilt but they put in mechanical lifters because of the cost???

[Clipper47]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How expensive are these lifters? A local here had his 1953 engine rebuilt but they put in mechanical lifters because of the cost??? </div></div>

Kanter charged me $27.50 for one rebuilt plunger assembly for my 356" so 16 would be $400! I'd try the ATF/Rislone method first. I didn't know that the hydraulic lifter engines could be adapted to solid lifters? Please tell me more.

[mlander]

After reading Clippers statement I went back to the Manual and finally found the callout which is typed below.

Here is the callout in MoToR?s Manual pages 848/358 of the L-Head Engine Section about the gage and the method of using it. It doesn?t look like much as all it consists of is the cylindrical portion of a factory established length and some feeler gages.

L-Head Engine Section

Hydraulic Lifters

Check the take-up reserve of each hydraulic unit after a valve grind job or when new valves are installed. This may be done by using by using the hydraulic tappet gage set shown in Fig. 4 before the springs and locks are installed.

# 1. Remove the hydraulic plungers from the tappet bodies and place them on the work bench in the order in which they were removed from the engine.

# 2. Install the valves without the springs.

# 3. Bring # 1 piston to the top of its compression stroke. At this time the intake and the exhaust valve for this cylinder will be at the base of their respective lobes on the camshaft.

# 4. Place the plug gauge of the gauge set in the lifter body, and while holding the valve down on its seat, check the clearance between the upper end of the plug and the valve stem, using the feeler gauges supplied with the gauge set, Fig. 5.

# 5. The clearance should be between .030? and .070?. If less .030? <span style="font-style: italic"> <span style="text-decoration: underline">face off</span> the end of the valve stem until the desired clearance is obtained.</span>

# 6. Repeat this operation on all the valves. Do not overlook having the piston at the top of its compression stroke when checking the corresponding valves for clearance.

There are two pictures showing the gauge. One shows the gauge and the feeler stock and another one showing the use of the gage and the feeler stock. It doesn?t look very difficult, only time consuming!

Edit: 21st edition, Second printing published 1958, L-Head Engine Section, page 847,848, 849

Yours, M.L.Anderson