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About mlander

  • Birthday 08/12/1926

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  1. Low Crown Acorn Size Course Thread Fine Thread 8/32 $1.01 $1.01 10/24 $1.35 $1.35 1/4 $0.81 $0.81 5/16 $0.92 $0.92 3/8 $1.06 $1.06 7/16 $1.79 $1.79 1/2 $1.90 $1.90 Three types seen to be listed,above is the low crown. M.L. Anderson
  2. AMAZING that virgilmule did it so well! All sorts and sizes of Acorn nuts! http://www.afchromebolts.com/catalog_acorns.html M.L. Anderson
  3. HERE IS ANOTHER SOURCE?; http://www.oldcarstuff.com/index.html I can't get the picture to come up but possibly you can. M.L. Anderson
  4. Quote from Taco; I think you can't just put new balls in an old bearing. Everything in the bearing has become bad I think. Can we replace the old ball bearings for roller bearings? Gr. Taco. I spent several hours yesterday trying to do the very thing you seem to propose, that is replacing ball bearing with tapered roller bearing but have failed to come to a good or even a bad decision. Since Hyatt of the old GM is now in the hand of the Chinese it leaves a quandary of decisions. Of just how to find the proper bearing number transposing using SWENSKA KUGELLAGER FABRIK numbers to old American numbers or possibly have a catalog and some good help from the Swedish factory engineers. Let us hope that SKF is not in the hands of the Chinese!!! One must have either or both of the following; # 1, The numbers off the old bearings. # 2, The sizes of, Width of the race, the Inside Diameter, the Outside Diameter. A picture of the bearing might help. A least that might be a very good start. I didn’t go Fifnir, Timken or any other, why I don’t know! Probably the best choice is Timken. http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products M. L. Anderson
  5. Quote from; rlbleeker My 1916 has standard tapered roller bearings in the front. Should be a fairly simple conversion I'd think. Is that frowned upon? Any old timer should remember the tapered roller used by Fomoco and Chrysler who had very little trouble with wheel bearing since they were tapered rollers and not ball bearing as were the old New Departures on GM products. Hyatt was/is a division of GM and were purchased by GM because of their ability to make tapered roller bearing which when properly installed are far superior to ball bearing for thrust purposes. Just what year it was that GM changed to tapered roller I don’t remember but was, I am sure, due to the superior properties of the roller bearing for thrust. Ball bearing for wheel bearing are just so much junk compared to properly installed tapered roller bearings! I would very much appreciate comments about this as my 81 year old memory is not the greatest!!! Similiar question@ http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/446682#Post446682 M.L. Anderson
  6. I spoke to Fred Rawling about this sparkplug wrench. Is this the special sparkplug wrench that came with the car or are you just trying to get one that fits into the hole to remove the sparkplugs? M.L. Anderson
  7. Acorn Nuts are listed in the Machinery’s Handbook under Low and High Crown (Blind, Acorn) Nuts. (recommended Practice J483a) A .5625”-18 is .875” across the flats. A full page is listed with the depths drills and all the information you need except for chrome plate. Don’t chrome plate the threads! Effective depth of full threads is .560”. and 13 columns of other dimensions! Surely somewhere there are firms who make and or stock these items altho you may have to chrome plate them. One also must remember that Chrome Plated Acorn Nuts are decorative! The may not be High Tensile for head bolts. Are you going to try to put these on the head studs? M.L. Anderson
  8. To Tinindian; Just talked to Les Ryan whose phone number is 712-322-4604. He has over 400 gear sets. Some of which may be just what you may need. $400.00 a set. M.L. Anderson
  9. Bill -W, Now that I have straightened myself out using your voluminous @ very informative passages, now for another very real question! There are a lot of places on the Internet about the sparkplugs used in the Poly engine from 1956 to about 1966. There is as you know a lot of wrong information about sparkplugs on the various places about this item. Were the Sparkplugs 14mm straight thru from 1956 to the end, approx 1966? Were the reaches all the same at 3/8” or ¾”? Were they all gasket seats or were some Tapered seats? M.L. Anderson
  10. Go to #444420 to find more problems! http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/444420#Post444420 M.L. Anderson
  11. It seems to me that all of suggestions listed here have a lot of validity! The only one that they missed that I can see is the fact of what causes corrosion in the cooling system. Iron + oxygen = rust! Rust + time + some other ingredients is what causes the gunk in your radiator! It has probably occurred to you that the reason that newer cars have overflow tanks and pressure caps is to keep oxygen out of the cooling system. This is why the newer cars have semi-sealed cooling system. It can’t be completely sealed because of cost and the difficulty of achieving the completely sealed cooled system. Also if you build a good system to achieve this you can see the bubbles raise in the bottle if the cylinder block or cylinder head is cracked. I learned this on an old Buick Straight Eight in 1950. Also go to; http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/441805#Post441805 http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/372139 http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/389562#Post389562 http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/384634 Yours, M.L. Anderson
  12. Haven't you reversed the two numbers, the 2 and the 0, and it's a 320 cubic inch engine. You should probably put this in the Buick section! M.L. Anderson
  13. To clear up a lot of confusion about these engines I suggest the people go to the address below to clear the air on these engines! Also it is easy to get confused as several engine have very simliar displacement but different Bores and Strokes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_A_engine and http://www.allpar.com/mopar/list.html Edit; I am now in a very high mode of operation to just clear up the Ply./Dodge Polys only! 08-30-2007 Yours, M.L. Anderson
  14. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jack27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I always used C-4 s in my 16 for 30+ years. If you have a magneto the 0.031" gap will make it hard to start when temp is low. The '16 owners manual says 0.031" gap but other references say 0.016". I changed to 0.016" and car would start anytime. The '16 owners manual states 0.031" but must have reflected going to a distributor ignition (1917) which uses 0.031 gap. </div></div> I knew there was a good reason for the use of Capacitors/ Distributors but this is the first time anyone expressed it so succinctly. Magnetos certainly have their place but their innate faults certainly put them behind the Delco with its centrifugal advance and later the vacuum advance. M.L. Anderson
  15. Go to; http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=C4&x=61&y=15&seenCrossWarning=1 The above gives the address of the distributor of many brands of sparkplugs. Their callout for the sparkplug of a new replacement Champion sparkplug as a, W 16Y, 7/8” -18 threads per inch, with a reach of 5/8 inch, 15/16” hexagon, Standard Coil Stock # 561 , Industrial sparkplug. This sparkplug does have a nominal 5/8" reach and an extended core nose of about .170". The reach of a sparkplug is the nominal distance from the gasket seat of the sparkplug without the gasket in place to the end of the sparkplug threads. Notice this removes the sparkplug gasket crushed thickness from the dimension! It also does not include the provision of an extended skirt as is evident on some sparkplugs. Altho a very belated post it is in hope of a better understanding of sparkplug terminology! M.L. Anderson
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