Jump to content

Still no AC


Guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, <BR>Been delayed in fixing the air on my 90 coupe because air also went out on my 96 Regal (hole in condensor). Tried suggestions given in May without success. Had local Buick dealer troubleshoot(had to add 1/2 lb. of freon) with conclusion that both high and low hoses are leaking. P/n 3523967 is no longer available?? Wanted over $400 to replace with no assurance of problem correction. Does anyone know of good AC repair shop within 100 miles of Elmira, NY? How can I get hose # mentioned above?<BR>Thanks, Ray confused.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ray try to find a shop that uses ultraviolet dye to check for leaks. It finds leaks that most leak detectors cant touch. And as far as the hoses go I would try Napa. If they dont have it, they will usually find You a place that does. Did You try places like Gm parts direct? In fact I will check the places I have in My favorites to see if they list it.<BR>I checked gm parts direct and they show it as not available. I would try Napa.<p>[ 06-06-2001: Message edited by: skip5015 ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ray I called My local parts house just out of curiosity. It wasnt a Napa but I figured I'd check. Believe it or not, the 89 hoses are still available but they dont show a 90.Go Figure. Anyway I dont know if they still carry them or not but Napa used to carry fittings that would bolt on the different units, such as the compressor, and You would buy bulk A/C hose and put A/C clamps on the ends. Could be another option. I think They used to carry it under Their Napa temp product line. Its been a while since I checked so I am not sure if it is still a carried system. I'd sure try

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the confusion, I repaired the Regal first by getting a condensor from GMpartsdirect ($135)and getting a shop to leak check and add R134A. Now I'm addressing the problem on my Reatta. I quess I'm probably going to switch to 134A which means a new accumulator, orifice tube, hoses, and ?? but don't have any confidence in the local Buick dealer to do the job. Any other steps to get a good conversion? shocked.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It the rubber hose itself is leaking, and the metal end fittings are undamaged, a quality hydraulic shop can fit and swage new hoses on them. Also check to see if it is a damaged area on the hose such as a chafe or burn. These areas can usually be simply cut out and replaced with an appropriate sized splice fitting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Shaffer

Strange. That is ddd that a 96s A/C don't work, nor can you buy parts for them. Seems as though someone would carry the parts. Have you tried everyone of your local Buick dealers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reattaray I am not sure if Your question got answered but I will throw 2 cents in. If there is nothing wrong with Your system like a blown compressor or a leaky hose, the only thing that is recommended to change over to 134a is to change the accumulator. They tall You to drain it of oil after You pull it off and measure it and then put that amount plus 2 ounces of ester oil back in. This has been an ongoing change since they came up with 134 in what they recommend You to change . When it first came out they were telling Us to change all the hoses and pull the compressor and change the oil and all the O rings. But now they are down to just the dryer. Also unless You have had a compressor problem or You have reason to suspect the orifice tube then it should be ok. But it is a cheap item if You do it Youself. Under 5 bucks. Hope this helps and doesnt make things more confusing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why does the accumulator/dryer need to be replaced? Is it just that the dessicant is probably saturated after 12 years, or is tere a difference in the new unit? Is there a different orifice tube for r-134a (larger/smaller opening)? I recently "converted" my '89 to 134a, and while it works, I think it could be colder, and the compressor seems to spend very little off time. (At an idle in 80 degrees it never stops, Lo side temp hovers around zero)<P>Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark<P> Do you mean the Low side pressure is at zero PSIG ? If so, the system is undercharged or not cycling properly. Systems set up to cycle on evap temp will generally cut out in the high 30 to low 40 PSIG range on 134a.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the dryer, I believe they want You to get out all the mineral oil that You can. I cut Mine apart just to see what was going on and the dessicant was full of oil. I read a bit on the oils that are in these systems and the reasn You have to use a diffent oil is because freon 134 will not carry the freon 12 oil to the compressor. So they figure if You put 134 oil in too, then You still get some lubrication. No the orifice tubes are the same for 12 and 134a. I was told that there is an adjustable orifice tube on the market but I havent seen it yet. Mine seems to be cooling ok. I will admit that if I were to leave it idle for some time, it would not be as cool as traveling down the hiway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I meant that my lo side temperature would sit around 0 degrees celsius. According to the manual, the Reattas cycle the compressor to maintain a temperature between -2 and 7 to 10 (depending on outside temp, inside set temp, etc).<P>The variable orifice that I saw is at <a href="http://www.sherco-auto.com/ac.htm">this place </a> quite a ways down the page.<P>Where did you buy the new dryer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...