Surface Rust Removal

[RandyFerguson]

Hi Folks,

Unfortunately, often times we're faced with rusty panels to deal with. It's not a good idea to repair parts, without first removing the surface rust.

In this post, I will reveal how I go about removing surface rust from automotive body panels. It's a bit time consuming, but not too terribly bad. I prefer to have Redi-Strip do it for me, but there are times when I have to resort to doing it the old way. This is a very inexpensive process that provides excellent results. This is not the ONLY way to go about it, but I have had success with it, so I stick to it.

Let's start with a materials list. You will need a DA sander (any type will actually work, or you can sand by hand if you wish)

80-180 grit sandpaper, steel wool (any grade will work), Naval Jelly, a squirt bottle w/warm soapy water and a roll of paper towels.

The first step is to sand the entire surface rusted area with a DA sander fitted with 80-180 grit paper. We're not trying to sand off the rust entirely, just get the majority of the heavy rust and make the panel somewhat smooth.

Working in an area about 12"-16" square, apply a fair amount of naval jelly and start scrubbing with the steel wool. This isn't a simple wipe on, wipe off process. Allow the naval jelly time to work. It's wise to wear rubber gloves, as the phosphoric acid in the naval jelly may affect your skin!!

It is important to keep the area wet at all times. Do not allow the naval jelly to dry. A few shots of water from the squirt bottle will help to activate the acid and may aid in quicker results. Depending on the severity of the rust, you should start seeing shiny metal within a few minutes. You may have to rinse the area and re-apply the naval jelly several times to get it all, but it WILL remove the rust eventually. If necessary, use a small wire brush to get into pitted areas. When you're finished working an area or you need a break, wipe off the excess naval jelly with a paper towel, squirt a healthy dose of the warm soapy water on the work area and immediately dry it thoroughly. This will neutralize the acid and leave a bluish colored film on the metal.

I did this 16"x16" area in about 15 minutes. More extreme rust would have taken longer, but the end result would have been the same.

Repeating this process over and over in workable size areas will yield a rust free panel that is ready for a good coat of epoxy primer that will last years, with just a few hours of good old hard work!!!

This '40 Willys roof panel has more than 90% of the rust removed. One more application will get it. I have a little under three hours in it to this point.

The last picture was taken just after wiping the panel with a wax and grease remover. I did this to clean it up and also to help highlight the dents. If you look closely, you will notice several half moon shaped creases in the roof.

This all gets repaired in the next step.

Randy Ferguson

Ferguson Coachbuilding

[bernardi]

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[WCraigH]

With all due respect to my "good virtual friend" bernardi, this is [color:"red"] MORE THAN INTERESTING!

In a self-imposed learning curve with help from local restorer friends, I just went thru this with my 1976 Firebird. That whole episode was to finish that project, cash out and apply funds to the body work, prep and paint in my Panther.

While my 'Bird hadn't sat outside for multiple-decades, it did sit out side for a season under a tarp during what amounts to a rainy season here in So. NV. Same effect on the bare metal.

While similar in process, but different in materials than what was recommended by a local restorer friend, [color:"red"] GETTING THE RUST OFF THE METAL is indeed the number one criteria. I [color:"green"] THINK that I got all the rust off before primer, paint, etc., but only time will tell on the 'Bird. The ultimate test will be my Panther. But, I've learned a lot during this past exercise and will do a 'better' job in the future.

Thanks for the info! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[RandyFerguson]

Hi Guys,

I appreciate the compliments. There's a lot more where that come from if you want it. I'm a sheetmetal shaper, so if there's anything at all you want to know about a cars body, I'll share with you all I know.... and make up the rest!!! We can cover anything from repairing a dent, to building a complete part from scratch.

[Guest Randy Berger]

I used a product to remove rust and corrosion from an old toy. It was A Dupont acid product and memory says it was VLM 57 or VLF 57. You mixed it two parts water to one part acid. It was great stuff, but I can't find it anymore. You were supposed to wipe it dry, not let it dry by itself.

[RandyFerguson]

Hi Randy,

It's been a long time since I've used it, but I think what you're talking about is 5717S Metal Conditioner. It's kind of a bluish color as I recall.

It's another phosphoric acid product, which is what most rust removers are. There are several available. I like the jellied based stuff because it actually stays where you put it on vertical surfaces and tends to stay wet longer, giving the acid time to work.

Rust can be tough stuff to knock loose, but in reality, it's basically sitting there on the surface, just waiting for a nudge to get the heck outta the way!!

Randy Ferguson

[Guest Randy Berger]

Randy F (just so people will not think I'm posting to myself). I bought a plastic flower planter, filled it with the acid solution and submerged each piece for a day in that solution. The pieces came out looking like chrome and after wiping them dry I primered them. Later I put a color coat on and baked the paint for 10 minutes at 150 degrees. It came out beautifully.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I did a search for VLM57 and VLF57 and found None, but I found a Dupont data sheet and other Info, on the 5717S.

http://www.resene.co.nz/automotive/DuPont_TDS/Metal_Conditioner_TDS.pdf

[Guest Randy Berger]

Those instructions sound like the product I used. The 2 to 1 mix and the don't let it dry on the surface. It was also green in my memory (Hell, maybe everything's green in my memory) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> That does sound like the stuff and it worked wonders.

[bernardi]

After reading the latest posts on rust removal, I remembered seeing several articles on the use of molasses. Google "Molasses Rust Removal" - there are 42,000+ posts (sites?) on the subject. It appears to involve more time and less elbow grease than Naval Jelly and less hazardous materials than phosphoric acid mixes. Absolutely bio-degradable! The claims include removal of ALL the rust without harming any painted surfaces. Haven't tried it, but it does sound intriguing.

[Guest Albert]

Speeking of rust, have any of you had this problem with the lower control arm? See pic

[Guest Albert]

I came off a car i got from NY in january this year, and while it was sitting in my driveway the spring broke through, thankfully it did not do it while i was towing it home on the tow bar, it could reall ave turned out bad.. right now i put in the control are with out the rubber bushings from another car i scrapped.