Cruise control inop.-1989

[Guest wally888]

Have tested input voltage at brake light switch,zero,should be 12 volts, no codes, cked BCM data and inputs (results indicate switch not working)<BR>but: The tests prescribed later on, indicate the switch in the steering wheel is inop. <BR> Have I missed something here and how difficult is it to remove steering wheel switch?

[Reatta Man]

Wally, <P>What year is it? If it is an airbag-equipped model, be sure you review the proceedure completely before fooling with that airbag. I've heard stories from reliable sources about unexpected detonation of the airbag, and if your head or neck is in the wrong place while working on it, the impact can be fatal. <P>Once you've gotten past the airbag, the switch is pretty normal to R & R. It should be mounted to the column assembly under the horn ring, and the cable should run down to the bottom of the column where you will find a harness. Be sure and snake a guide wire back up through the column as you remove the old switch and wiring harness. Getting the new harness down the column assembly without a guide wire can be very frustrating. <P>Good luck!<P>Joe<P>------------------<BR>1965 Wildcat Custom Convertible<BR>1970 GS coupe<BR>1990 Reatta coupe<BR>1999 Regal GSE<BR>2002 Reatta II coupe (I wish!)

[bigrog]

that switch does have a habit of failing. it can be taken apart and clean the contacts, this will keep you from having to route that wire through the column. it is tricky, or if you're good at wire splicing, youm can cheat that way if you have to replace it. it comes out easy, grab it and pull

[Guest]

If you checked the fuses and cheesy vaccuum hoses then check the brake switch. Its only $15 to replace and the most likely cause. I wouldn't go by the Buick troubleshooting guides that point to the steering wheel switch. The Buick service docs specifically state not to measure the voltage on the energized switch since it may cause ckt damage. You can pry of the front of the sw. If you feel compelled to do so you'll find a spring and 3 solder joints. If you are not afraid of voiding your warranty on the vehicle you could de-active the ckt (all power off) and meas for resistance changes across the solder joints. Then, being a rational(izing) stud (not unlike the rest of us!), since you've gone this far, and you DID go through all that malarky to get the switch cover off AND it still doesn't work anyway... what the he!!, activate the ckt and look for voltage changes as you set and turn off the cruise. Be quick about it and if the voltage changed that switch is ok.

[Guest wally888]

I checked fuses and vac hoses. Am backing up- I have no voltage supply to brown wire at cruise /brake switch. Should I backprobe power supply or go to apparent? (according to BCM inputs) failure at switch on steering wheel.<BR> or where do I start hammering 1st?