Timing chain and sprocket???

[Guest]

I thought that i read somewhere about having to change the timing chain and sprocket on these 3800 engines between 100,000 and 120,000miles. Is that true, or was i just dreaming?<P>If it is true, how tough of a job is it?

[Guest]

There is no mention of timing chain replacement interval in the service manual. They do get sloppy over time but there is a tensioner on the Buick engine to take up the slop. The sprockets are all metal, no nylon coatings to break down. Even when worn, it would take quite a bit for it to jump timing. I don't believe there is firm guideline on this. I have heard of engines with 200k+ that have never been apart and others that have had trouble @ 80k. If the engine is accelerated hard regularly, it will wear more rapidly. My opinion would be to leave it alone unless some other sort of service needs to be done such as the cam magnet of front seal.<P>------------------<BR>Hal, btk@vbe.com

[Guest]

I can't remember if the 3800s are interference engine or not. if they are IMHO it might be a good Idea to replace the set before a problem. let's see here 100 bucks to have it down or less to do yourself or a new engine? which one is better.<P>If they're not interference engines then leave alone until it breaks or jumps. it probably won't do any harm if it breaks just will stall and not restart.<P>Mawolfe<P>------------------<BR>If your not living on the edge your taking up too much space.

[Guest Greg Ross]

At approximately 140K miles my engine developed a mechanical noise, when the engine was shut down there was a noticeable rattling sound- 88' by the way, attempted to isolate thru listening-screw driver to the ear metheod. Shop that was doing my mechanical work at the time informed me it was the tensioner, Buick had apparently come up with an improved type? At disassembly the tensioner slider shoe was completely gone, we were metal on metal-after replacement of the chain, sprockets and tensioner Voila, problem solved. With the amount of lash this would have allowed it seemed to make a noticeable difference in engine response. <p>[This message has been edited by GM Ross (edited 08-26-2000).]

[Guest]

I just replaced the timing chain, dampener #25535668 (1st design), sprockets, and magnet on my 88 Reatta. The vinyl slider shoe was worn all the way down to the metal. I replaced all this because the E041 code had displayed. The magnet had fallen apart into pieces. I had 124000 miles on the car. The timing chain was not yet making any noise. The original dampener did not look like either repacement dampener (part#24501297 nor #25535668). The dealership did not know which one to use. I chose #25535668. The engine runs fine. However, the brake light and abs light came on the other night after a moment of sudden braking. The crt displayed a warning of low brake pressure at all 5 points on the picture. The brakes are responding normally. Any suggestions? Thanks, Al

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Al:<BR><B>However, the brake light and abs light came on the other night after a moment of sudden braking. The crt displayed a warning of low brake pressure at all 5 points on the picture. The brakes are responding normally. Any suggestions? Thanks, Al</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Have the Accumlator and Power Brake motor checked ASAP. Thess are the warning signs of braking problems and might be losing hydulic pressure in the assist part.(the brakes the Reatta are hydulic assist as opposed to Vacumn assist on other cars) whitout the assist the pedal is really hard to press and you will not stop any time soon unless there is an obstacle in your way. <P>I would venture an guess that the accumulator is leaking down pressure from your desricption. But have both checked. Also pull the wheels check for leaking fliud and proper braking action on all the corners. If some thing doesn't look right have it checked by a mechanic you trust or replace it. worn pads on the Reatta are easy (a little dirty but easy) rotors are fairly inexpesive (as compared to some of the cars I owned)and calipers can be rebuilt. Alway try to keep everything as clean as possible (It sounds easy to say that but jeesh its hard to do.) Well I've rattled on enough for right now have fun and remember don't crushem' restorem'<P>Matt Wolfe<P><BR>Matt Wolfe<P>------------------<BR>If your not living on the edge your taking up too much space.<P>[This message has been edited by Mawolfe (edited 08-26-2000).]<p>[This message has been edited by Mawolfe (edited 08-26-2000).]

[harry yarnell]

timing chains don't break, they stretch and can jump time, but even this is a 'stretch'with solid cam gear (vs the horrid nylon one of years ago) and the tensioner.

[Guest]

The timing chain should be replaced according to your owners manual. The job is a little involved but nothing you can't do yourself. I would suggest that you replace your water pump and oil pump at the same time. Total time for the job runs about 5 to 6 hours for the beginner with the right tools. Your machanic will probably want about $200 to $300 for just the timing chain. You can do the job your self and change everything for about $150. Good luck.

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by harry yarnell:<BR><B>timing chains don't break, they stretch and can jump time, but even this is a 'stretch'with solid cam gear (vs the horrid nylon one of years ago) and the tensioner.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>timing chains can break I've seen the aftermath of them breaking. Anything can break. I've seen rods spit out the side of blocks, valves that vaporize into nothing, heads that blow straight up through the hood and cranks that drop out the bottom, turbos that grenade apart, melted pistons (that was in a desiel international that some idiot put gas in) just my 0.02.<P>Matt Wolfe<P>------------------<BR>If your not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.<p>[This message has been edited by Mawolfe (edited 08-27-2000).]