$50 for 50 HP ???

[Jeffrey Backes]

So, now that the meet is over, can someone shed some light on this upgrade?

[TwinCamFan]

Were you at the national meet, you could have just asked me about it there? It's like playing

telephone though, something always gets mixed up as the message gets passed along.

What I said is 30 HP for $50.

The turbo motors have enough fuel to support about 13-14 PSI of boost, adding a Grainger valve

and some silicone tubing into the wastegate solenoid line takes the boost schedule control

away from the ECU and into a 'manual' mode to the setting determined by the Grainger valve.

Boost will come on much sooner as well so it is a very 'quality' 30 HP

[Jeffrey Backes]

Thanks for the info. I did not get a chance to make the meet, perhaps next year.

I have read about this elsewhere they call it a "bleed" system. I was thinking about doing one of the more complex systems that involve a little circuit board.

What is your overall impression? Does it seem to spool up any quicker? Any problems with driveability?

[TwinCamFan]

Bleed systems are less safe. Some folks even run them in the MAP line which cuts the fuel down

and increases the boost, a potentially catastophic event.

It is kind of a myth that the turbo takes as long to spool up as it does in the 'stock' form.

Really what is happening is that the ECU is preventing the motor from building boost early

to reduce drivetrain/transmission shock and reduce warranty claims.

The Grainger valve allows the boost to build as soon as exhaust energy allows, then holds the

boost at the preset level until the valve opens. I build my own but www.dawesdevices sells nice

boost controllers that are nearly the same.

No drivability issues unless you get greedy with the boost and try to run above a safe level for

the fuel supply you have. A boost gauge (even mounted temporarily) is a pretty important tool

when adjusting the valve. My experience tells me that on a SOHC intercooled turbo 2.2/2.5

there is enough fuel for 13-14psi of boost.

SIDE NOTE: Adding boost to a poorly running car is a bad idea. Car should be 'tuned' before

any power increases are sought. plugs/wires cap/rotor fuel filter/air filter become increasingly

important as boost pressure is increased. Also the fuel pump/fuel delivary/fuel pressure should be checked

under driving conditions in an ideal world. Not many folks have the fuel pressure gauge that

is attached to 5' of injection rated hose. Larger gains are realised when a quality high flow

exhuast system is installed in conjunction with the Grainger valve

[Jeffrey Backes]

Thanks for the GREAT reply, I learn so much from other members!

I'm not interested in extra horsepower as much as I am getting off the line. I have a '89 with the 8v engine and quite often I find myself entering traffic with not enough available acceleration. Should I expect to get better "0-15" performance with this upgrade?

I've also be looking at the new dual bearing turbos that are almost ready in kit form. They promise much faster startup times, but $1600 is a lot of cash to put into a $4000 car!

[TwinCamFan]

Stop kidding yourself, you want more power as well as better 0-whatever times.

The Grainger valve will make a BIG difference in spool up times even at the factory boost level. I

am willing to bet if you install one you WON"T WANT to run it at the stock level.

The grainger valve will make a HUGE difference if you allow it to supply an extra 4-5psi of boost.

You are better to spend your money on a good exhaust than a fancy new turbo, don't get me wrong

I love fancy new turbo's in fact, my TC is the olny turbo car I own with the factory turbo still on it.

You should be thankful for the turbo you have on the SOHC TC, my DOHC has teeny tiny IHI turbo

on it. I want to get to 250-270 wheel horsepower on the stock unit before I spend the $$$ on a

real turbo for it.