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Trans problems


55PACKARD

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I think my trans is going im not sure...When i start the car its great but after a while when it warms up it seems like i have to give it more gas to get it to move i mean it goes into gear and everthing it just seems like i have to give it more gas to move almost like it might be not grabing or not reacting to the thorttle any ideas...

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Guest imported_Speedster

If you are sure the engine is reving to high enough RPM and producing enough power, then probably it is transmission problem. But it may not be inside trany, (clutch-disk, bands, etc.) I've heard that can be caused by a defective torque-converter. If it is converter, and since that converter can be taken apart, it may be easier to repair than overhauling complete transmission.

One way to test the driveline is to put back end of car on jack-stands and let trany shift thru gears with back wheels off ground. This will let you know if everything is working okay without much load on the driveline.

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I know for a fact the trans shifts i just wanted to know why when it gets hot or when i do some long drives with it,it seems to take a little more effort to move it but if i put it in low gear in moves out fine and then i shift it to high gear then it seems to be ok...Im just was curious what it was....

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im gonna take a wild stab in the dark here, but do u run dextron III? i used to and based on some advice and info posted on this forum i went to ford type F and have never looked back. i seemed to have a similar problem that was only noticable when hot and have not had a problem sence. i also added some lucas trans fix/sealer because i did have a slight leak "1 quart/200-300 miles" this also seemed to make the direct drive clutch grab a little better. your transmission could also be overheating, i put on a aftermarket transcooler "one for a large pickup" infront of the radiator and ran the lines in the frame rail to the transmission. this cannot be seen unless the hood is up and your looking through the latch hole "even then its hard to see" i even left the original with the lines in place, just cut them right before they go into the trans and clamp them out of the way.

just a thought

tom

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You could be right with the trans overheating wasnt that a problem with these trans

i might be looking into a trans cooler but how do i go about diconnected the stock one i dont want to leave that one hooked up i just want to by-pass and use a heavy duty trans cooler so how would i do this...

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personally i think the trans coolers were very poorly designed, they use the radiator water to cool the trans fluid. this means that the transmission under 100% cooling efficency would never be cooler then the engine temp, i would guess that on a hot day your trans is 25-50F hotter then your radiator water "maybe more if you are in a hilly area." i remember reading somewhere that heat is a major contributor to trans failure and every 10F you cool your trans can add upto 10% life. the only benifit to the original cooler i can find is the radiator water would heat up the trans in the winter which would be easier on the pumps, at least here where it gets -30F or colder. my other concern with the original cooler is what happens when it leaks, antifreeze in your transmission would be the start of a very very bad day. but at the time when the automatic was fairly new it was sufficent for cooling. i have always put bigger coolers on my vehicles for the transmissions and yet to have one fail "knock on wood."

just a thought

tom

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Guest Albert

You might want to check the settings of the brake bands in the transmission as they may be slipping causing some of your problems too.

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I agree with 52Deluxe about the stock trans cooler. I removed the one on my 55 Pat and use an air-type mounted vertically in front of the radiator.

Just cut the stock tranny lines where they come forward right before they make the turn across the front. Connect the air-type cooler rubber lines there.

You can completely remove the stock cooler by replacing it with Goodyear 60706 or equivalent. It replaces both lower hoses and the cooler.

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Yes, but use a tubing cutter and at least a single flare on the end because there is pressure in those lines.

The reason for removing the cooler is because you still have the possibility of the coolant leaking out. That's a 50-year old assembly of metal and there is probably corrosion and vibration-induced cracks. I removed it on my 55 Pat. However, it is a PITA to get at.

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i just cut the lines and ran a small piece of tubing to each end of the lines coming from the original cooler. this way if it does start to leak internally there is no place for the coolant to go. simple solution if you want that stock look and it only takes about 4" of rubber hose. im also wondering if that gm part number would work on a straight 8?

tom

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