Problems with '27 Buick Master

[Guest]

I have been debugging my recently restored '27 Buick Master. The engine pulls great until the engine temp gets above 180 F. Then the power drops off dramatically and the engine temp rapidly starts climbing off the scale!<P>This car has a stock Marvel carb setup with the heat riser set in the "heat off" position. Is is reasonable to expect this engine to run in the 160 F range? It sure doesn't now, unless it's below 70 F ambient. Has new radiator, water pump, etc. If not, how do I get it to not loose so much power when hot? <P>Anyone with a similar 6 cyl engine have this sort of problem? Thanks in advance for your comments....

[Guest]

I have 27 buick supermaster I'm interested in selling but have no idea of its value.It is 100% complete and it runs. some restoration but mostly original. no rust. purchased from original owner some 30 years ago. Can you help me in regards to its value? w.s.fischer@worldnet.att.net

[old buicks]

Sounds like you might have a timing problem. I recently helped a friend with a 37 Packard that ran fine but got hot. He advanced his timing about 2 - 4 degrees and the thing runs great now at 55 and doesn't overheat. Also what about the radiator? Can you flow test it and get a good drain in about 5-8 seconds? You mentioned new? water pump, is the impeller securely fastened to the shaft?

[Guest]

Thanks so much for your comments!<P>The water pump impeller and shaft are new, and the two are shrunk together, it is inconceivable to me that they aren't connected. The radiator was flow tested and boiled out -- but it is a honeycomb type. The radiator man said it flowed well and that he would expect it to work well.<P>I have played a bit with the timing. My distributor is a little flakey. I'm not sure how much centrifugal advance it should produce, but there is not much seen when checked with a timing light. I keep the manual advance on the column in the fully advanced setting except when starting.

[Fred Rawling]

If you timed it with a light is is probably out of time. Try timing it by the directions in the shop manuel. I could never get mine to run good using a timing light. If the distributor shaft is loose in the housing, that could be part of the problem. If you do not have the owners or shop manuel, I will e-mail you a copy of the pages that you need.

[Fred Rawling]

I had another thought. Have you checked the coil. I once had a problem where the engine ran bad when it got warmed up and it was the coil not working when it was hot. What a shame, it was a beautiful origional coil. It was so pretty that I saved it. I could not through it away.

[Guest]

Fred:<P>I do have the shop manual and I have set the distributor as suggested by them. I mainly have used the timing light to check to see where it is. Mine is now running with a bit more advance than the 14 degree advance mark on the flywheel. But I do live at high altitude, around 6000 ft, and we normally advance a few degrees for this. I have also just played with advancing and retarding the unit followed by test driving and checking the temperature. From where it is now set, performance does not change much with these experimental (probably plus or minus 5 degrees or less) changes.<P>Right now, the car is doing better. I have fiddled with the carburator mixture and flap tension and these changes have enabled the engine to not lose so much power when the temp is above 180 F. Still, it heats up pretty quick when climbing, but with the current set up it seems to stay below 200 F on 95F type days -- provided I keep my eye on it and pray a lot. <P>I think it is also improving with use, this engine is still tight and wouldn't that drag add a lot of heat to the radiator? <P>Thanks to all for the help, I will keep you posted and keep those suggestions coming!<P>Bill.

[Guest Tom Timmins]

I had similar problem and made two changes at the same time. I don't know which one solved the problem. Try setting the carb float a little higher so the engine is never gas starved. I also changed to a 6 blade fan. It moves a lot more air.

[Fred Rawling]

I have over 70000 miles on a 28 master and have not had to change the fan to keep it cool. The problem is somewhere else.<P>If your engine was rebuilt and you set the rod bearings at less than .002, you may have caused the overheating problem. I saw that happen to John Gertskemper on his 31 one time. We were on a tour and he had to sit it out while the engine cooled down and then take another let of the trip until the engine heated up again. <P>If your carb is adjusted correctly, with the engine at idle, you should be able to pull the accelerator rod back, fast, and the engine should accelerate without faultering. If it does not, turn in the air valve a notch or two until it does accelerate with out faultering. E-mail me if you are still having problems. This looks like a tough one but I will brain storm on it with you. I only get on this forum once in a while as you can see from the date of my last reply to you.<p>[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Fred Rawling ]