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12 volt relay??


Guest wildcat65401

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Guest wildcat65401

hi everyone,

I'm trying to install the pertronix ignitor system on a '65 wildcat . I now need a 12 volt relay to send 12 volts to the coil and all will be well . pertronix said they would call or email me a part no. but they havent and its saturday . so if anyone can suggest one , that would be great as i REALLY want to get my wifes daily driven wildcat back to her , coz if she's happy , i am too .

thankyou, paul.

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Guest wildcat65401

now i have a relay .

it has four contacts ; 85, 86, 87 & 30 .

i need one to go to pos. on the batt. one to ground , one to the ign wire and one to the coil .

can anyone tell me which one goes where ???

thankyou, Paul.

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Guest wildcat65401

Nope, still no luck.

I had the relay set up almost ready yesterday and then my friend showed up and found a ballast resistor on the ign. wire . So we removed that , checked the voltage , which read twelve . It still would not start [no fire]. Then we discovered that when cranking the voltage at the ign. wire dropped below twelve so that was no good .

Back to the relay . So today I hooked it up to find , that when cranking only nine volts come from the realy which twelve is being sent to . So it can't trigger the ignitor either . I suppose the relay I purchased just was not the right type . It came from NAPA and is a universal acc. relay by echlin .

At least after all this , when I ran twelve volts straight from the battery directly to the coil , the car started up .

Any light you can shed on this in any way , would obviously be really appreciated .

Thank you very much , Paul.

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This sounds just like the issue I have with the pertronix unit in my '56. Runs great with direct 12v from the batt. I plan on running a line straight from the fuse block, I would imagine there should be a post on the fuse block marked ignition that would give 12v when the key is in the "start" and "run" positions.

Its just been too damm cold to head out to the garage latley and try it.

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Guest John Chapman

Paul,

I don't know much about how the '65 large cars are set up, but if it's like my '65 Skylark, there is a resistance wire in the primary power from the ignition switch to the firewall connector that drops the voltage to about 9.2. This was done to keep from arcing across the points. The wire should be pink and will show on the service manual wiring diagram. If you bypass or replace the resistance wire, you'll get 12V from the ignition switch to the primary circuit.

Also, <span style="font-style: italic">if</span> they set up the starter circuit the same way, there will be a wire (yellow, if I recall) from the starter solinoid to the coil primary that provides 12V during start only... to remedy the problem that you've seen during start. From personal experience, a lot of these wires were... uh, 'abandoned' by well-meaning(?) mechanics during starter maintenance. You might have to look for cut ends if the service manual shows them.

As I said, I don't know if this is the way the large cars were set up, but it's worth a look. Mine has no relays in the circuits, either.

Cheers,

John

Cheers,

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Guest John Chapman

Paul,

No, what I'm saying is that if your original wiring setup is like my '65 Skylark:

--there is a feed from the starter solinoid to the primary side to provide 12V current anytime the starter solinoid is activated. This helps provide a hotter spark during start. This may help during the start.

--check for a resistance wire in the dash harness between the ignition and the firewall connector. Replacing or bypassing the resistor wire will provide 12V current to the primary side at all times the key is in 'RUN' or 'START'. If this is the way your car is set up, then I don't think you'll need a relay to provide 12V to the primary and satisfy the Pertronix need for 12V to the primary side.

Do you have a service manual and wiring diagrams? If not, I highly recommend that you obtain them. It makes life so very much easier.

Cheers,

John

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Guest wildcat65401

John,

So Marvin from pertronix just helped me get the relay hooked up . And apparently all the system needs at the coil is seven volts . Anyway , it started right up and I let it warm up . It then stalled when I kicked it down to a low idle , but it started up again . Unfortuantley this happened again and now it wont start again . It sound like there is no spark , oh well .

Hopefully when Marvin gets back from lunch he'll be able to help . And there was no wire from the solinoid to the coil so iI'll replace that too .

Thanks , Paul.

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Try using the 12v wire to the coil as the hot wire to the relay 12v terminal, one to ground,and to the other terminals,run a hot lead from a 12v switched circuit, and the other terminal to the red wire on the Pertronix. Verify the operation of the ignitiion switch and the relay with a 12v test light, the terminal to the Pertronix should shut off when the ignition switch is turned off.

Be sure that you do not lose the 12v signal to the relay during cranking, if you do or it dims the light on the tester, then you may have to wire it to either the battery terminal or a "bat" terminal on your fuse panel. If you do this, I recommend using a fuse inline between the "bat" terminal and the relay as this terminal has a lot of amps at it, and if anything shorts to ground you will want it to shut this circuit down as soon as possible.

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Guest wildcat65401

Hey John ,

Thanks for your concern , I checked my manual again and there should be a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to a pink wire that goes to the pos. side of the coil and I presume the ign switch .

I think now the reason the car stalls at a low idle and does'nt want to start is because the timing is off . We are going to try to take care of that later today . Fingers crossed .

Thanks , Paul.

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Guest wildcat65401

GMpartsman,

Thanks for the advice , I'll let you know how it goes in the morning when i try to start her up again and drive her to my friends shop .I'm curious to see what happens myself.

Talk to you later, Paul.

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