330 HEI/Performance

[Guest]

I just got done restoring a 1967 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe. I am a Ford/Mercury guy, but I could not pass this one up...(it was free, I saved it from being wrecked). I can honestly say that I am very impressed with the way Olds designed and put its cars together! It has a 330 high-compression engine with California smog pump/exhaust air injection. The car is entirely stock with 97,000 miles. Perfect compression balance, no thumping or other bad noises, idles dead smooth. Smog stuff was promptly removed, boxed, and stored.

I just installed a 750 cfm Carter AFB (since I had a new one sitting around). The guys at Vic Hubbard's Performance said not to worry about the size of the carb, since the Q-Jet on the car was also rated around 750.

My distributor shaft has a lot of wobble which might explain the surging and stumbling at part-throttle (I have been through every other cause, especially chasing down vacuum leaks), so I am guessing I should go with an HEI unit while I am at replacing it.

My questions are this:

1) What do people in the know reccomend for an HEI swap? Do I go to the junkyard and pull a good one (and from which engines), or should I just purchase a new unit? I have heard that HEI units are stiffly-sprung--are there recurve kits to reccommend?

2) What should I do in terms of easy mods to increase performance on this engine? I have heard Olds motors don't necessarily respond to headers like they do to a good intake. Also, I don't like the way aftermarket headers fit and seal (or don't fit and not seal). Any tips or reccommendations would be greatly appreciated. Since this is a higher mileage motor, I would prefer not to do anything radical (but I am already planning for a rebuild/build-up).

3) This darn Jetaway two-speed is too tall for jetting away, and too short for cruising (65 mph vs 75 mph means 4 mpg!). Is it possible to swap in a modern 4-speed auto? And to keep the switch-pitch torque converter? If all you all want to do is point me to a website or whatnot, I'll be glad to hear about it! brendanmaze@hotmail.com

[rocketraider]

All non-computer HEI exc 77-78 Toronado are compatible with 1964-90 Olds V8s. An HEI from a mid 70s 350 or 403 will work well in your 330 as they have a moderate advance curve. Factory 455 units have a rather lazy advance curve and 260s have too much for a street driven hi-compression 330, which is what you have. It's a simple install and sounds like you have enough mechanical background to drop it in and fire it up. Use a switched constant 12v power source- do NOT use the factory points distributor power wire as it is a resistance wire that drops voltage to 7-9 V at the coil + and an HEI will not function right. There should be a spare IGN terminal on the fuse block. Junkyard unit or parts store rebuilt is your choice.

Another option is a Mallory Unilite conversion or a Pertronix Ignitor. I've got both and like both. The Pertronix can be a little slow starting sometimes- you can't just hop in and turn the key. I turn the switch on, count 5, and then it starts right up. Something about having to charge up the module, Pertronix addresses it in the installation instructions.

A 200-4R will bolt right up to the 330 but may be a bit longer than the Jetaway, and the yoke splines are different- no problem for a good driveshaft shop. I doubt it would work with the switch-pitch converter. With the deeper 1st gear and OD, you probably wouldn't miss it. Get the TV cable and carb bracket from any 307 OD junker. A 200 OD will live for a while behind a 330. Best cores are from 85-87 442, GN and Monte Carlo SS. A buddy has one behind a 389/TriPower in a 64 GP and it works good.

Oldsmobiles like Performer and Torker intakes and head work. Higher ratio rocker arms wake them up. They respond to headers but they're a lot of aggravation to install and keep sealed (not as bad as certain Mopars though). They don't like too much carburetion and run better slightly lean- an 850 is the upper end for a street 455. Split profile cams work well, with more exhaust duration.

[Guest]

Rocketraider:

Thank you for your suggestions, they were much appreciated. I went with an HEI from a '77/'78 Firebird with a 403. I tapped the resistance wire right where it comes out of the firewall harness, and didn't lose a volt. The engine runs noticeably better (not like that imagined smoothness after and oil change). Much more responsive to tipping in, snappy off the line. But the advdance curve is a little doggy... I have 10 degrees initial and it still won't rattle. Now all I have to do is take out the hammer and move the firewall back a quarter inch to get a few more degrees...

I was thinking abut a new point-type distributor with a Pertronix trigger, but I have heard that they have sudden failures. Anyway, I am happy with the HEI.

I will look into the 200 R4.--the Jetaway is now refusing to downshift, so maybe it is the time to overreact and get a new tranny. I am going to guess it has something to do with that huge switch on the throttle linkage (downshift switch/stator switch? I'll trace the wire up from the downshift solenoid to be sure). There's a great wrecking yard down the highway which specializes in GM sporty stuff-Corvettes, Firebirds, Camaros, 442s, etc, where I got the HEI.

I will keep my eyes open for a Performer. Heck, I'll just probably order one. I will probably stave off pulling the heads, but I do like the sound of higher-ratio roller rockers. Had Crane Golds on my '93 5.0. Hard to tell the difference with 15 pounds of boost in your back, but lots of those Fordheads swear by them, especially since they do a nice job of opening up small Fords' weak exhaust side. Now that I think about it, doesn't it seem that almost ALL engines are weak on the exhaust side? Hmm, maybe not the ubiquitous Chevy mouse.

When the mean money gets spent, I think I'll find a 400 and build that. The Cutty is just a litle too heavy for a 330.

And I'll have to go about leaning out the Carter: that's good to know that Olds like to be a little lean, as my plugs are telling me I'm running a touch rich.

Thanks again for your help.

[rocketraider]

When you say "doesn't downshift" do you mean a part throttle downshift or doesn't shift to Low at idle? The switch you've found on the throttle links is the downshift and stator angle switch- if it's failed or out of adjustment you won't get part throttle downshift. Possible the stator angle switch has crapped too- if it does, and the stator remains in LOW angle off idle, the car will be very sluggish from a standing start. Out of adjustment causes it too. Also check the 9A "TRANS" fuse in the fuse block.

If it won't downshift to Low at idle, Jetaways have a coast down timing valve inside that may be stuck, or the governor itself may not be working right.

If you go 400, try to get a 65-67 engine. The 68-69 had a longer stroke that was good for torque but tended to throw rods thru the block if pushed to the limit- as most were .

[Guest]

Rocketraider:

Thanks for more info, always appreciated!

The problem is twofold, and intermittant: Full acceleration in top gear from anywhere between 30 and 60 mph won't force a downshift. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. When the Cutlass is acting like that, full-throttle acceleration from a standing start produces a shift into top gear much lower than it normally does, i.e., 45 or so instaed of the normal 65 mph.

I am not, however, experiencing sluggish starts. If I just touch the throttle, it's sluggish, but if I give it more than a quarter-throttle, I can feel the converter switch up to higher stall speed.

The second part of the mysterious equasion is the shift to low speed on coast-down. Sometimes it smoothly shifts into low at about 10 mph, but most times it clunks into low at about 5 mph. Lowering the idle speed to 700 didn't help ( I brought it back to 800 or so). I checked the vacuum modulator and it holds vacuum; there dosn't seem to be any fluid leaking into the tubing.

My father thinks it is perhaps a low-band problem, but I have no slipping at any speed in low, nor is there any creep or seeming engine drag in neutral. And he always preferred and got the Muncie, anyway.

I have no fear of taking off the pan and taking apart what I can while it's in the car. I think that I have reached the point when ordering the factory service manuals is in order. Year One sells the manuals, so I think I'll buy them (unless you or someone else has a better reccommendation). It's because I have no idea where the downshift/coast timing valve is... I mean, I have an idea where it is, but not nec. how to get at it or what to do with it once I'm there. The governor is obvious enough (I hope).

Again, I return to the downshift/stator angle switch. I'll take my careful time disassembling, cleaning, and lubing it. I hope that will do it. But it probably is that downshift/coast timing valve.

I'll keep a lookout for the earlier 400s. I guess the difference between a 3.87" and 4.00" bore should be pretty easy to spec even with my junky calipers!

Thanks again for your advice.