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89 Trofeo


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Does anyone know what the motor is for at the<BR>back of the 89 Trofeo? On my vehicle it is getting very loud, sounding as if its about to die. Its visible right at underside of the car, right in back of the gas tank. Is it related to the air suspension by chance?<P>Thanks<BR>nat

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I'm registered now......<P>Does anyone know what the little motor is for at the back of the 89 Trofeo? On my vehicle it is getting very loud, sounding as if its about to die. Its visible right at underside of the car, right in back of the gas tank. Is it related to the air suspension by chance?<P>Is the fuel pump on this car built-into the gas tank?<P>Thanks<BR>nat<p>[ 03-01-2002: Message edited by: nataan ]

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The motor you are hearing is most likely the compressor motor for the air suspension. I dont know if there are after market shocks that could be bought to do away with the air ride system. You might try calling a few parts stores. I am sure the compressor is very expensive from the dealer.....Regarding the fuel pump, it is in the tank.

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That would be the compressor. Its a expensive system. Could just be your shocks are leaking or the lines and the compressor just cant shut off because the level sensor is telling it to raise the rear.You could save the compressor untill you figure out the problem by unpluging the relay. You will have a soft rear suspension but you probably already have that. Its only susposed to run untill the car is at proper ride height so I'm willing to bet that your saging in the rear.<P>Our 86 Riviera has that system and it is fine yet.<P>I removed the system from our 89 NewYorker and used Monroe sensitrac shocks and the car sits level and rides firm.

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Trofeo73 & 86 2dr.ltd, that's what I thought...couldn't see that pump being fuel related. I will try to see what I can find at the local junk yard, but that pump really doesn't seem easy to remove or replace - there is very little room in the general area.<P>Thanks<BR>nat

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86 2dr.ltd <P>I spent nearly all day in the Pick & Pull junk yard. I actually disconnected the compressor off of a 87 model, but after disconnecting the 'deceased' car's gas tank - totally empty, dry with no fumes - I thought about how hard it would be to reconnect it on my car, and decided to leave the part in place, though disconnected. I just disconnected my compressor and I'll deal with the sag later.<P>Do you think I could go to any auto parts store, and ask for what shock to purchase to use as a replacement? I checked out how the current shock is mounted and believe I can make the change without too much of a hassle.....let me know what you think.<P>Thanks<BR>nat

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Its been awhile since I've been under our 86 Riv.I had to put a fuel pump in the tank. I looked the compressor and lines over quickly and was happy to see they were in great shape. Other wise I paid no attention to it and went about what I was doing. I'll look tomorrow but I cant believe you have to pull the tank? I remember pulling the sway bar to help with the tank.<P>Im not sure if the Toro-Riv came without self leveling suspension but the parts guys will be able to tell you. If there is a listing for non leveling get the heavy duty version of what ever make you decide on. I think our New Yorker got the Monroe sensi-tracs and I did not know until I was finished if it would sit and ride well. I got lucky, one garage man said some cars dont level up because they have lower spring rates in some of the self leveling cars.Your Trofeo should be well sprung however.<P>Did you check to see if you had a air leak that was making your pump run? Are you sure your pump is shot?

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I'm quite sure the pump is shot!<BR>It makes a racket that turns heads!<BR>I had to turn it off-unplug it, as <BR>it could actually be felt, while the<BR>car was running-idling, or while the<BR>car was actually being driven; it felt <BR>as if something was hitting...or as if<BR>the car was running real bad. Now that <BR>the pump is disconnected all is kind of<BR>quiet, though the car does need a good <BR>tune-up. That is my next move, getting<BR>a real good Professional Tune-up at a<BR>reputable shop here that I always take<BR>my non-do-it-yourself jobs.<P>Do you know how those air shocks work? Do <BR>they hold the air and lose it gradually, or<BR>is the air loss faster, as in a daily thing?<P>Thanks<BR>nat<p>[ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: nataan ]

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I imagine when new they hold air quite well,our Riviera pumps up everytime it is started so it apparently leaks a little and most likely makes adjustments while driving. Your probably wondering if you can pump them up and seal them. I do not know. I dont think it would be worth the trouble.

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86 2dr.ltd <P>Guy, now the steering wheel is loose! I tell ya....having these old cars gives a man the blues sometimes! But I'll fix it., just hate to have to deal with this at this time. I've got so many other things to take care of more important, ya know? <P>Take care friend<BR>nat

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Steering wheel loose? frown.gif" border="0 Never heard of that.Do you mean somethings loose in the steering.<P>When it rains it pours? I am in the middle of fixing a few cars when, last week the wifes daily driver the New Yorker breaks the timing belt, my fault it was well over due for replacement. The thing is with these engines you have to remove alt,power steering, air conditioning bracket,distributor then engine mount and mounting plate. Then while your there the water pump has been seeping for awhile so now is the time to replace that because it too is underneath all that stuff. Then these engines while being known for 200,000+ miles have one serious flaw, they did not use any retainer for the valve guides and they work loose pushing the valve seals out and start to smoke while sitting at a red light. So all these things needed to be done and I had been putting them off until I was done with the Riviera - it needs a few dents pulled and paint job. So I toss the two around and decide to fix the heads,waterpump and timing on the New Yorker because I know the car and the Riv. is new to me plus I want to keep the Riviera for summer use.<P>So the Chrysler is apart in the shop and the heads just got done today and tomorrow I see if I can put it back together right and make it run. <P>Whats next? confused.gif" border="0

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Whew!! Guy, it sounds like you got some serious "hands full" work in front of you! <BR>Would love to help out, but....well I'm here...and, your there. I feel for you though...I'll quit complaining about my own woes.<P>When I say the steering wheel is loose, I mean it is loose at the point where it adjusts up or down. I'm sure I have to pull it, and tighten the large nut on the inside. This too seems like a GM vehicle issue, as one of my female co-workers just had to have hers repaired - her van is an 89 Astro. I just dreaad pulling that steering wheel. <P>I wish you well on putting that car back together guy....got my fingers crossed, and said a little prayer that you have no unforeseen difficulties. smile.gif" border="0

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Cool 86 2dr.ltd!<P>Congrats guy. I bought a steering wheel puller from the pawn shop - a good one,<BR>for $2 bucks. I would have pulled the <BR>thing on Sunday past, but the wife came<BR>home real late. I'll attack it this weekend<BR>though if not before. Next I'm going to <BR>change the oil to a mixture of straight<BR>synthetic, 20W40 Valvoline, and 15W40 <BR>SynMix. After I put the used dash in, <BR>I see the Trofeo has 120,000+ miles on it. Time for some thicker oil.

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You might want to research that oil question.There seems to be a opinion that the lighter oil is better for these - not so new anymore - new engines. I still use 10-30 in all our "newer" engines. There is also a train of thought that says save the money spent on expensive synthetic oils and change the oil more often.Then your spending the same amount but running cleaner oil. Lubrication is lubrication. Old - warn out and contaminated oil is the problem.<P>This is just some stuff I've been reading.

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86 2dr.ltd <P>I attempted to pull that steering wheel, and got all the way down to the, well....the steering wheel was off...and what was stairing me in the face was a cir-clip and some plastic. Seems I need a tool from the parts place to get that cir-clip off. That's next. I'll keep you posted.<P>Take care<BR>nat

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Do you have a manual? I have Haynes - covers Riv.86-93,Toro 86-92 and some Caddys.It says<P>STEERING COLUMN REPAIR refer to illustrations22.4a thru 22.4p NOTE: Performing this procedure will make a "sloppy" steering column solid and tight again.<BR>1 disconect the neg.battery cable<BR>2remove steering wheel 3remove turn signal switch and the key lock cyl.<BR>3 follow the accompanying photo sequence.stay in order and read carefully.<P>22.4a remove the turn signal switch lever.On some models this is accomplished by pulling straight out; on other models push the lever in,rotate it 1/4 turn clockwise and pull it straight out<BR>22.4b remove the turn signal switch and the ignition lock cylinder(see chapter 12),then remove the three screws which retain the switch cover assembly<BR>22.4c remove the switch cover assembly and set it aside<BR>22.4d remove the high-beam/turn signal switch actuator(if equipped)<BR>22.4e to release the tilt mechanism retainer,push it in and turn it counterclockwise<BR>22.4f the tilt pivot pins are located on each side of the housing<BR>22.4g/h a small slide hammer and an 8-32 machine screw is the best way to remove the pivot pins<BR>22.4i if you don't have a small slide hammer,screw an 8-32 machine screw into each pin,clamp a pair of locking pliers onto the screw and use a large screwdriver to pry out the pins <BR>22.4j before you remove the housing,pay very close attention to the relationship between the rack and the sector; when the housing is installed again, this is how these two parts must fit together<BR>22.4k/l temporarily install the tilt lever and pull toward you to release the tilt shoes from the shaft and remove the housing (you will need to use this same procedure to install the housing)<BR>22.4m after disconnecting the cruise control lead down at the base of the column,carefully fish it out of the column and set the housing on the floor<BR>22.4n remove the rack;note how the rack is oriented - it must go back in exactly the same way<BR>22.4o remove the four screws, apply Loctite to the threads, install the screws and tighten them securely; this will eliminate the "sloppiness" in the tilt mechanism<BR>22.4p install the rack and housing and pass the cruise control harness through the column (remember to pull back on the tilt lever when installing the housing). To install the pivot pins, carefully tap them into place with a hammer. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal<P>good luck!!!

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86 2dr.ltd <P>Man I got as far as 22.4i, and forgot I have<BR>a slide hammer...next Saturday I should get it done. I purchased the same Manual as yours also. Appreciate your help guy.<P><BR>Later<BR>nat

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Its hard to find help on these newer cars.NEWER CARS? I feel bad when some post and get few or no replies or help. Most knowledge goes for the 50's,60's &70's and people coming here with 80's and 90's stuff just dont get much help. So I try when I can but my scope is limited to what I've done on my own cars.<P>Hang in there! These first generation GM FWD V6 cars were cool, their just getting old and showing it.<P>Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

It could be one of the censors acting up. These are hard. Chapter 6 in your manual should explain how to test them and the trouble shooting guide might get you on the right track. Our 86 LeSabre does the same thing. Moody! But the reason is somethings not sending the ECM the right signals and its going into fault mode which makes the engine run "drunk and disorderly".

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Also some have said that the coil packs have gotten weak and caused problems. I would check everything out very carefully first because I've heard of people throwing lots of parts at a car to get "no change". In the end it will wind up being one thing but you may have replaced almost everything.

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swimmster, 86, <P>That is my car! Inside and out, the only thing different being the "TV" as Trofeo owners sometimes call it. All else is the same. <P>swimmster do you have the factory air struts also? I have been emailing dealerships and part stores, trying to find a non-air replacment strut, with only 1 solid response so far. There is a replacement, its cost being $100.00 dollars each, plus tax. I want to replace the air struts on my car, and so will purchase these when I am financially able to do so. <P>Another question: What would cause the car to have a rough idle on some days, a hesitation upon stopped, now going, acceleration? In other words, some days the car runs great, other days, or later that same day, the idle is of a 'miss', as if the car has bad plugs of something. I just replaced the plugs and wires. Think its a fuel filter issue?<P>Appreciate the help guys<BR>nat

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