Jump to content

POR factory manifold gray


Guest trevor ward

Recommended Posts

Guest trevor ward

Hi......<BR> I have the exhaust manifolds of my '64 le sabre off of the car right now to machine away some slight corrosion on the mating surfaces and before i replace them i am going to coat with the POR paint and would like to hear from anyone who has used the product and welcome any tips for the best results....<BR> If i do not blast the items , will a good hard wire wheeling and sanding routine be as effective over a long period??? confused.gif" border="0<BR>and how important is the subsequent heating for a full cure???<P> THANKS BOYS.......<P> TREVOR..........<P> '64 le sabre more or less done grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wardy:<P>1. Blasting is the best way, however, a wire wheel will do the trick as well...however<P>2. After you machine the rusted flange areas, make sure you get all the cutting fluid residue from machining off. This leaves you with the wire wheel route. If you blast the part after machining, you will ruin the machined surfaces of the flange.<P>3. I have used a manifold paint from Eastwood here in the states with good results. I would just follow the instructions for a good application.<P>Regards, Peter J. wink.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had my 37 exhaust manifold bead blasted and I couldn't believe the color. It was much lighter than I expected. The gray POR matched it very well. I put it on with a brush last year and it seasoned very well. As it heated repeatedly, it smoothed out and still has a very pleasing color. Not a shiny silver, but a richer light gray.<BR>The judges must have liked it, I got a 1st at Hershey.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest trevor ward

well boys....,<BR> the machining is done and they are back on<BR> the car , I followed the instuctions to the<BR> letter and cured both coats in an industrial<BR> oven at about 900F......<BR> As you suggest 37CHEVY the result is a<BR> really nice "realistic" color grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0 <BR> and as well as the looks sorted out the <BR> leak has been cured, had to take about a<BR> sixteenth off to true every thing up and<BR> have re- installed with hi temp gasket <BR> material to be ABSOLUTELY sure<P> i suppose time will tell with the paint,<BR> but so far so good wink.gif" border="0 <P> thanks boys..........<P> <B>'64 le sabre ...... one step nearer</B>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest trevor ward

PETER J. as a point of interest, i have an <BR> engineering background as a coach builder on<BR> the railway here and somebody i used to know<BR> when i was still in this line was a guy in<BR> the sheetmetal shop, who took the plunge<BR> and went into business restoring.......wait<BR> for it...... TR'S wink.gif" border="0and primarily TR6's no<BR> less!!!<P> I always recall a nice green one which was<BR> one of his first projects and his own fine<BR> weather driver, and was a real testament to <BR> his skills......and he is still at it i<BR> understand grin.gif" border="0 <P> Just a point i thought you may find of<BR> interest peter grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0 <P> take it easy.........<P> TREVOR<P> <B>'64 le sabre .........pretty much done!</B>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting, Wardy. Thank you.<P>Bought mine new and managed to hold on to it. I have bought parts from Rimmer Brothers in the U.K., with good service.<P>Take care, Peter J. wink.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...