Guest trevor ward Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Hi......<BR> I have the exhaust manifolds of my '64 le sabre off of the car right now to machine away some slight corrosion on the mating surfaces and before i replace them i am going to coat with the POR paint and would like to hear from anyone who has used the product and welcome any tips for the best results....<BR> If i do not blast the items , will a good hard wire wheeling and sanding routine be as effective over a long period??? <BR>and how important is the subsequent heating for a full cure???<P> THANKS BOYS.......<P> TREVOR..........<P> '64 le sabre more or less done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Wardy:<P>1. Blasting is the best way, however, a wire wheel will do the trick as well...however<P>2. After you machine the rusted flange areas, make sure you get all the cutting fluid residue from machining off. This leaves you with the wire wheel route. If you blast the part after machining, you will ruin the machined surfaces of the flange.<P>3. I have used a manifold paint from Eastwood here in the states with good results. I would just follow the instructions for a good application.<P>Regards, Peter J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 I had my 37 exhaust manifold bead blasted and I couldn't believe the color. It was much lighter than I expected. The gray POR matched it very well. I put it on with a brush last year and it seasoned very well. As it heated repeatedly, it smoothed out and still has a very pleasing color. Not a shiny silver, but a richer light gray.<BR>The judges must have liked it, I got a 1st at Hershey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trevor ward Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 well boys....,<BR> the machining is done and they are back on<BR> the car , I followed the instuctions to the<BR> letter and cured both coats in an industrial<BR> oven at about 900F......<BR> As you suggest 37CHEVY the result is a<BR> really nice "realistic" color <BR> and as well as the looks sorted out the <BR> leak has been cured, had to take about a<BR> sixteenth off to true every thing up and<BR> have re- installed with hi temp gasket <BR> material to be ABSOLUTELY sure<P> i suppose time will tell with the paint,<BR> but so far so good <P> thanks boys..........<P> <B>'64 le sabre ...... one step nearer</B> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Wardy, glad to hear you are satisfied with this project. <P>Regards, Peter J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trevor ward Posted June 6, 2002 Share Posted June 6, 2002 PETER J. as a point of interest, i have an <BR> engineering background as a coach builder on<BR> the railway here and somebody i used to know<BR> when i was still in this line was a guy in<BR> the sheetmetal shop, who took the plunge<BR> and went into business restoring.......wait<BR> for it...... TR'S and primarily TR6's no<BR> less!!!<P> I always recall a nice green one which was<BR> one of his first projects and his own fine<BR> weather driver, and was a real testament to <BR> his skills......and he is still at it i<BR> understand <P> Just a point i thought you may find of<BR> interest peter <P> take it easy.........<P> TREVOR<P> <B>'64 le sabre .........pretty much done!</B> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted June 6, 2002 Share Posted June 6, 2002 That's interesting, Wardy. Thank you.<P>Bought mine new and managed to hold on to it. I have bought parts from Rimmer Brothers in the U.K., with good service.<P>Take care, Peter J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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