Acrylic enamel vs. laquer

[Guest]

I got a 1964 buick. which paint is better for the car?

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Good luck finding lacquer. It has just about gone the way of the dinosaur. I had to pull some strings to find some in the colors I wanted. I understand that it is easier to apply than A/E for a novice like myself. We shall see, as I will have do some of both.

[Guest]

You don't say what '64 Buick you have and what you intend to do with it. If I had a very rare car that I intended to "show" and "show" alone, it would be the type of paint that came on the car from the factory. If I had that very same rare car and intended to drive it occasionally and "show" it, I might do the same. If I had a 1964 Buick (I have two 1965's) that I intend to drive and just go to a "show" for fun (or even leave it in the parking lot), I would paint it a "modern" urethane paint. Any metallic would be a basecoat/clearcoat without a minute of thought. It looks much better than the original Lacquer and is FAR more durable. And these "modern" paints can be applied with great success with just a little proper training. If anyone wants to really learn about paint and how to apply it, check with your closest paint retailer and ask if the brand they sell has a Training school nearby. The company I work for has five of them accross America and most of the other brands do too. We have a four day class that WILL make you a painter for about $125.00. And if you get in touch with the company rep, you can probably get it for free.

[ronbarn]

A/E hands down!! First, it's readily available. Second, if applied with reasonable attention to instructions and appropriate care, it's an easy paint job, it last's longer, it doesn't crack (if your body is flexible that counts for a lot), it's cheaper, and if you want to show the car in AACA, we don't care what the paint product is as long as the color is the same as original.

[Guest]

And has the same appearance as when the vehicle left the factory. It isn't the paint you use that is judged in AACA, it the appearance and workmanship. HV

[Guest]

Also, you might want to add that proper respirator should be used for any Urethane or two part A/E with isocyanates. A hooded fresh air system is recommended. However, I use an AOS respirator with R51A cartridges and dust filter. It's not recommended for isocyanates, but, it's better than using simply a dust mask or nothing at all. If you can afford the fresh air system and paint a lot, you really should consider it. It is in the $300-$600 price range depending on features.