63 brakes

[Guest Steeleco]

If anyone wants to confirm or comment on this it is appreciated. I had a little squeel and lock up from what I think was the drivers rear brake. So I bought a set of front brakes #197 and a set of rear brakes #340. When I removed the drum on the drivers side rear the front shoe looked like a 197 front shoe as far as the non asbestos materaial goes. So after I replaced the drivers rear with the new 340 the squeel and lock up went away. Since it's been over 30 years since I replaced any breake shoes (a bit more involved than the easy pads these kids have today to which I have replaced a few) so it took all morning. It will probably only take one and a half hours each for the others. The first one is always the hardest. I did notice after my test drive as I did use the breaks a little hard the drivers rear wheel was a bit warm. If I put the car in neutral it seem to roll ok. Any help or comment would be great.

Thanks

[Jim Cannon]

Just make sure you put the shoe with the shorter length of lining in the front position at each wheel and you are good. Make sure the automatic adjuster is clean, turns freely, and works to adjust the shoes out when you apply the brakes when reversing. A new set of brake hardware while you are in there (springs, etc) is not a bad idea. You don't know how old that stuff is that is on there.

[Guest Steeleco]

More on the brakes. I replaced the rear set on the drivers side and drove it to check it out. The wheel seems to get a little warmer than the others. Any feedback or advice on what is OK or what should be done?

Thanks

[Guest kaycee]

You might check to make sure that your parking brake cables going to both the rear wheels are free when the parking brake is released.

kaycee

[Jim Cannon]

You might check to make sure that your parking brake cables going to both the rear wheels are free when the parking brake is released.

kaycee

Excellent point. If I recall correctly, it says in the shop manual that you should clean and grease the parking brake cables where they pass through the cable housing in the rear, and where the cables slide along the frame in the center. Years of dirt and dried grease in there could make the parking brake a little sticky and not fully release.

New shoes also need some time to wear in. The arc of the lining will not exactly match the arc of the drum. The high spots will wear off and then the full surface of the lining face will start contacting the drum.

Did you have the drums turned (or at least put on a lathe to confirm they are good)? If they are not perfectly round, the shoe will rub on one or two spots each time the wheel turns, even though the brakes are not applied, and that little brush will generate some heat that a true drum will not.

[Guest Steeleco]

Jim and Kaycee,

Thank you for the info, that gives me something to look for. I have not had time to get back on the car to check it out. I did not have the drum turned, the drum was very smooth and looked like someone had done a brake job recently (although there was something funky about the front shoe). I definately agree about the emergency brake cable and will re-address it when I have some time. At least I fixed the grabbing and squeel that was coming from that wheel. The car seem to stop nicely now as well.