Grr... I have blown through 4 sets of NEW motor mounts!

[Guest]

CARS out of NJ has recommended I use the aviation tie down to stop my 300 from torquing the mounts into pieces...<P>Was there ever a solid motor mount produced? If there was, anyone have a set? just one? <P>HELP! Its only a 300-4 (lol)...<P>oldskooln@aol.com

[Guest]

WHat are you doing to the car that you would be breaking the mounts, that's my question. I have a 65 300 Skylark and have never broke a mount. I tow a 2000 lb trailer, I don't baby it, what in the heck could you be doing?

[Guest]

You know I get that question a lot...<P>I drive her daily. I did just over 30k miles this past year. <P>The Blu-ick has been know to make a few runs on the streets when weather permits and only one trip to the track, but no major abuse.<BR>

[Guest]

I had the same problem with my 300 I would break the left mount about every 4-6 months. The scary part is it will pull the accelerator cable and its like your at 3/4 throttle without any control. What I did was chain the left side down off the back of the head. Not necessarily the most professional but the mount didn't break on me again. I never found a solid mount although it has been a few years since I had the 300 in my car. See Ya!!!!!Eddie!!!1

[NTX5467]

It could be "old" rubber that has become brittle and will not handle the stretch anymore. Consider, most of those mounts were probably made many years ago and have been sitting in some warehouse since then, maybe not the same type of aging as if they'd been on a car, but they still aren't very new either.<P>You can probably find some mounts made with polyurethane, which might be a better alternative than solid mounts, but still not a good alternative to me.<P>If you can find some of the factory fix restraint kits (like they had for the Chevies back then) or get something of that nature made, it would be a better alternative. If you're pulling the rubber mounts apart, instead of the rubber breaking it will transfer those stresses to the exterior of the engine block casting. Many dirt track motors running solid side mounts tend to break the block in that area for just that reason.<P>The more solidity there are in the engine mountings, the more vibration will also be transfered to the chassis and car body. This is a main reason I'd stay with rubber mounts and put the restraint cables on them.<P>What would be the possibilities of upgrading the mounts to the later models that had internal travel limiters in them? Or even modify the mountings to use the upgraded Chevy mounts? I suspect these might be the best choices in the long run, plus getting a mount that is regularly available with fresher rubber in it.<P>NTX5467

[Guest John Chapman]

One of the first things that I had to do to my Skylark was replace the motor mounts. Bought them from NAPA and they appeared to be fresh. I've had no problems in two years. This might be one of those items where NOS works against you.<P>JMC

[Guest]

I did find a new set of mounts... some company out of (uuuuggghhhh) china makes them new.<P>My driverside mount always goes first, but my passenger one seems to break every other time from the squatting pressure of the motor.<P>I now have a heavy-test chain padlocked to the driver side. Hopefully this will slow the breaking process.<P>Ah, the ol Blu-ick! Gotta love her!<P>Thanks for all the replys.