DIY Brake Install

[Guest Reelhappy]

Thanks to Twin Cam and TC I did the pump test on my 1990 and came up with eleven before the yellow light came on. Of course that only got me to looking at the rest of the brake system and I’m thinking of new rotors and pads. :confused: Are there any special tools needed to complete this entire task and on a scale of one to ten, what is the difficult rating? Have done disk brakes before but never a TC and am trying to anticipate any problems before starting . Have seen pads and rotors on ebay, any ideas which one to get and why?

Any heads up and pointers would be appreciated.

[TwinCamFan]

Go back to ebay and order some rebuilt TC calipers, they are like $18. each or some rediculously low price. Then get some MKD220 semi metalics pads, the rotors you saw on ebay (they are all made in China these days unless youwant to pay $$$ at the dealership) Do you have a floor jack, jackstands, and a 1/2" drive set of sockets? The 18mm spindle to carrier bolts are pretty tough. If you have this stuff and have bled brakes before then have at it. The new brakes will amaze you. The loss in braking performance with 20 year old parts is so gradual we dont really feel it but when everything is fresh:cool:...

Alan

[Guest Reelhappy]

Twin Cam Fan, was feeling pretty good until I got to the " The 18mm spindle to carrier bolts are pretty tough." Figure it to be much like the other brakes I've done but the 18mm spindle carrier bolts threw me. Even asked my neighbor he he wasn't sure. Does that use an allen wrench? If so I'm good to go.

Being from the OLD Safe School, I always ask "How fast can I stop before seeing how fast I can go." That haveing been said, I was told that the way I drive the slotted disc really aren't necessary for my car as I drive/treat it real easy. Never race to the next stop light to make panic stops causeing a heat problem. Is there a big differance?

[Guest My TC Toy]

The only odd item is the adjustment on the rear calipers. You will find a threaded plug, concealing an adjustment shaft. To remove the old pads, remove the plug and , using a 4mm allan wrench unscrew the shaft or screw until a resistance is felt. DO NOT exert excess pressure. After you have installed the new pads, set up the parking break and energized the brake system and applied pedal pressure on the system, turn the screw clockwise until a slight resistance is felt and your disc binds. Now unscrew the screw 1/3 turn and you disc is pre-loaded. Replace the threaded plug.

Good luck,

Bob

[TwinCamFan]

Twin Cam Fan, was feeling pretty good until I got to the " The 18mm spindle to carrier bolts are pretty tough." Figure it to be much like the other brakes I've done but the 18mm spindle carrier bolts threw me. Even asked my neighbor he he wasn't sure. Does that use an allen wrench? If so I'm good to go.

Being from the OLD Safe School, I always ask "How fast can I stop before seeing how fast I can go." That haveing been said, I was told that the way I drive the slotted disc really aren't necessary for my car as I drive/treat it real easy. Never race to the next stop light to make panic stops causeing a heat problem. Is there a big differance?

Woah, don't start to doubt yourself, it's just to replace the rotors the carrier has to be unbolted breifly; If it was a 'pad only' job you jut take out the 10mm caliper bolts and swap pads... To get the rotors off a little more work is requred. You can do it:) Also, have a wire brush handy, brush the hubs where they make contact with the back face of the rotor, just a few thou of rust/galvanic corrosion can cause pedal pulsation.

If you really wanted a challenge, try retrofitting the 'big' 11.25 rotors/calipers and ABS sensors onto a TC like I did on the yellow car. I won't go thru all that again, just good pads and new parts on the other cars for me please:o

Alan

PS I've tried 3-4 sets of slotted or drilled discs, never met a set I've liked yet...

[Guest Reelhappy]

Thank you for the vote of confidence. Will be ordering parts in the near future. I kinda like to do things in my head a few times before actually doing the job. Will be marking this thread and rereading while waiting for the parts.

<O:p</O:p

Will let you all know how it turns out.

<O:p</O:p

Again, THANK YOU.

[Guest Reelhappy]

So far I have been able to locate the 4 rotors for $61.71 and the front pads for $17.00. But having hard time finding rear pads.

Any ideas?

[Guest StudeDude 01]

Check Auto Zone part# MKD381---$21.99. That's the same number I have in my spare parts stock. You should be good to go.

[Nile]

Coincidentally, I did the front brakes on my 90 TC today. There's an easy way to loosen those two 18mm bolts that get so tight due to all the heat cycles. Naturally you've got the car on jack stands and are wearing gloves & safety glasses. Presoak the bolts with PB Blaster (much better than WD40) and put a sturdy socket with breaker bar on a bolt. Make sure the bar is free from obstruction and is about 5-10" off the ground. Slide you floor jack under the end of the breaker bar, and raise the jack until it engages it with the breaker bar and won't slip off. Obviously, make sure that raising the jack will cause the bar to loosen the bolt, then just pump the jack up . . . and . . .viola!

Nile

89TC 16v y/g/b, 90TC 16v y/g/t, 69 'cuda 340 multiple state autocross champ, 91 MR2 defending autocross PAX champ, 69 cuda convertible, 04 G35x, 00 Silverado.

[TwinCamFan]

Coincidentally, I did the front brakes on my 90 TC today. There's an easy way to loosen those two 18mm bolts that get so tight due to all the heat cycles. Naturally you've got the car on jack stands and are wearing gloves & safety glasses. Presoak the bolts with PB Blaster (much better than WD40) and put a sturdy socket with breaker bar on a bolt. Make sure the bar is free from obstruction and is about 5-10" off the ground. Slide you floor jack under the end of the breaker bar, and raise the jack until it engages it with the breaker bar and won't slip off. Obviously, make sure that raising the jack will cause the bar to loosen the bolt, then just pump the jack up . . . and . . .viola!

Nile

89TC 16v y/g/b, 90TC 16v y/g/t, 69 'cuda 340 multiple state autocross champ, 91 MR2 defending autocross PAX champ, 69 cuda convertible, 04 G35x, 00 Silverado.

I'm guessing given your passion for Auto X, you change a LOT of pads:cool: Good tip, I've used the breaker bar/floor jack trick on those 32mm axle nuts that are impossibly tight.

*Minor hijack warning* what kind of suspension mods have you done to the TC? Surely you are not satisfied with it's ability to change direction as delivered from the factory;)

Alan

[Guest BarelyFit]

MY preferred method of removal is a three foot pipe slipped over a 1/2 drive ratchet with 6 point socket. It gives feel for breaking parts and slippage (which almost never happens with the 6 point).