valve adjustment

[Guest my chevy]

I have a 1935 Chevy Standard and need to adjust the valve clearances. Are they supposed to be adjusted with the engine running? I know my late dad talked about doing it that way, and I've done it years ago on older V-8's with hydralic lifters. With solid lifters I've always done it with the motor off, cylinder being adjusted on TDC on compression stroke.

Mike

[Ron of Chicago]

According to the Motors Manual:

After the engine temperature has been normalized, run the engine at idle speed and adjust the valves to .006 intake, .013 exhaust. During the warm up period, it is recommended that the vlve stems be well lubricated with light engine oil to prevent valves sticking or to free them if such a tendency is apparent. All cylinder head and manifold bolts should be checked for tightness before adjusting the valve clearances.

Hope this helps

Ron

[Guest 36chev]

My brother and I recently adjusted the valves on my 36 Chevrolet with it running. I think it works best to have two people when it is running--a person on one side of the engine with the feeler gauge and the second person on the other side working the adjusters. But keep in mind that it may beat and dent up the feeler gauge--this has happened to me before.

I've adjusted fine by myself as well without it running. Get the engine good and hot, then use the rotor on the distributor to line up when each cylinder is firing--that way both valves will be closed. I use the starter to bump it over--on the Standard model Chevy (without the Starterator) easy to do by grabbing the started pedal rod and engaging the switch.

Also, in the 1936 owners manual, it says .007 for intake and .013 for exhaust. The Motor's Manual does say .006, but I've seen other sources say .008 for intake. I prefer to opt for valves to maybe be a little loose and clicky rather than burned.